wood works wheel teeth

[R. Croswell]

so the pendulum lentgh is determined by those 3 wheels plus the escapement? nothing to do with the winding arbor, 2nd 3rd wheels? I could change (theoreticallly) those tooth counts and wouldnt affect the regulation?

Perhaps this will make it clearer (or clear as ink). In the photo "W" are wheels and "P" are pinions. W5 and P5 are at the escape wheel. CTR is the center wheel on the minute shaft. The RED line shows the geared path between the center shaft and the escape wheel. If the final ratio of the train of wheels and pinions along the red path is changed, then the escape wheel (W5) will turn more times or fewer times every time CTR (the minute hand) advances 1 turn. Note that W5, the escape wheel is not part of the gear train. The number of teeth on W5 and the length of the pendulum are selected as needed to regulate the speed of the escape wheel so the minute hand rotates exactly once in 60 seconds.

The BLUE line (main wheel and 2nd. wheel) is the path where power from the weight enters the system. Notice that the 2nd. wheel and the CTR wheel both mesh with the same 3rd. wheel pinion P3, but the 1st and 2nd wheels are NOT in the train of gears between CTR and W5. Therefore, changing the tooth count on the 1st or 2nd wheel will have NO effect on the timing of the clock. However, altering the 1st and/or 2nd wheels and pinions will change how many times the cord spool will rotate in 24 hours and thus how far the weights are required to drop in 24 hours.

RC

 

[mrpat2]

I get that now. I had already noticed that P3 is driven and drives at the same time. That is the dividing point between the timekeeping part of the train

 

[mrpat2]

I took your advice about making a nylon bushing. Turned out really well you cant even tell from the front. I used a 1/2 forstner bit which made a clean cut and make it about 3/4 the depth of the hole.

 

[R. Croswell]

I took your advice about making a nylon bushing. Turned out really well you cant even tell from the front. I used a 1/2 forstner bit which made a clean cut and make it about 3/4 the depth of the hole.

View attachment 718201 View attachment 718202 View attachment 718203

That should work just fine. Looks like you have one of the brass-bushed movements.

RC

 

[mrpat2]

Now that I have it regulated, and the pendulum clears the bottom, I have found another problem. That is, I am not getting the full 30 hours of weight drop before the weights hit the floor. I have calculated approx .75" drop per hour, and I have approx 18 inches to spare when fully wound. Works out to about 24 hours before I run out of room. I rechecked the tooth count on the winding arbor and 2nd wheel and they are the same between orig and donor movements. Pinion on W2 is 8 teeth, again the same. The only diffference in tooth count between old and new is the minute hand wheel, so Im not using that new one. The only other thing I saw was the drum diameter on the winding arbor, being a little larger than original, I did use the new one because the teeth there were damaged. So I turned it down some, not quite as far as the original, and this is the result. Right now I have it at 1.1 " and the original is 1.040"
According to my math if I turn it down a little more to 1.040 I wouldnt gain but about half hour more.

The cord Im using seems thin enough, see earlier photos

So what is the diameter of the drum of your 30 hour clock? Or do I have the wrong weights? Mine are about 3 1/2 inches high, I suspect they may not be original because the label mentions the lighter one going on the strike side but ther is only about and ounce or so diffference between the 2.

 

[R. Croswell]

Now that I have it regulated, and the pendulum clears the bottom, I have found another problem. That is, I am not getting the full 30 hours of weight drop before the weights hit the floor. I have calculated approx .75" drop per hour, and I have approx 18 inches to spare when fully wound. Works out to about 24 hours before I run out of room. I rechecked the tooth count on the winding arbor and 2nd wheel and they are the same between orig and donor movements. Pinion on W2 is 8 teeth, again the same. The only diffference in tooth count between old and new is the minute hand wheel, so Im not using that new one. The only other thing I saw was the drum diameter on the winding arbor, being a little larger than original, I did use the new one because the teeth there were damaged. So I turned it down some, not quite as far as the original, and this is the result. Right now I have it at 1.1 " and the original is 1.040"
According to my math if I turn it down a little more to 1.040 I wouldnt gain but about half hour more.

The cord Im using seems thin enough, see earlier photos

So what is the diameter of the drum of your 30 hour clock? Or do I have the wrong weights? Mine are about 3 1/2 inches high, I suspect they may not be original because the label mentions the lighter one going on the strike side but ther is only about and ounce or so diffference between the 2.

I know that we often speak of 1-day clocks as being 30 hr., but I've seen clocks with this type of movement that I know are not 30-hour clocks. If you are getting 24+ hours I would call it OK. Does the label in the clock say 30 hour clock? None of the labels in any of my wooden clocks say anything about run time. The number of teeth on the center wheel is not cast in stone. If the CTR wheel has more teeth, then that 3rd. wheel pinion may turn more times and use up more string. Sorry, the only wooden movement that is currently accessible here is a basket case and I replaced a spool and turned it down. I have no idea what clock it came from.