# Wood Plate Wag on Wall early 1800'S Striking Issues

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
I have a customer's 1820 American Tall Case with a German Wag on Wall T&S . the problem I am having is it will strike on time and then maybe 19 or 25 hour strikes I can seem to correct the problem. Any ideas or source's on these movements?

#### Uhralt

NAWCC Member
It seems that your clock sometimes fails to stop the strike when the correct number of strikes has finished and adds the next one. The two most frequent causes are 1: The strike train has been assembled incorrectly so that the stop lever doesn't securely catch the stop pin on the wheel. Making sure that the stop lever falls down about a quarter of a turn before the stop pin hits it usually solves this problem. 2: The helper spring that pushes down the count lever into the slots of the count wheel is missing or too weak. this means, the lever falls by gravity only without being pushed down by the spring. That may be insufficient for a reliable action. Making sure that the spring is present and not too weak solves that problem.

it is also possible that the count lever is not totally free to fall because it touches something or there is sticky oil in its pivots. Lastly, make sure that the count lever enters the slots in the count wheel at the center of the slot, if the clock strikes the hours only. If the clock also strikes the half hours, the lever must fall into the beginning of the slot to leave space for the half hour strike.

Uhralt

Les Sanders

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
It seems that your clock sometimes fails to stop the strike when the correct number of strikes has finished and adds the next one. The two most frequent causes are 1: The strike train has been assembled incorrectly so that the stop lever doesn't securely catch the stop pin on the wheel. Making sure that the stop lever falls down about a quarter of a turn before the stop pin hits it usually solves this problem. 2: The helper spring that pushes down the count lever into the slots of the count wheel is missing or too weak. this means, the lever falls by gravity only without being pushed down by the spring. That may be insufficient for a reliable action. Making sure that the spring is present and not too weak solves that problem.

it is also possible that the count lever is not totally free to fall because it touches something or there is sticky oil in its pivots. Lastly, make sure that the count lever enters the slots in the count wheel at the center of the slot, if the clock strikes the hours only. If the clock also strikes the half hours, the lever must fall into the beginning of the slot to leave space for the half hour strike.

Uhralt
Here is a close up of the count lever spring arrangement. I made several careful bends to apply more pressure, I am testing now.

#### shutterbug

##### Moderator
Staff member
NAWCC Member
Is that the escape wheel on the minute arbor?

#### Uhralt

NAWCC Member
Here is a close up of the count lever spring arrangement. I made several careful bends to apply more pressure, I am testing now.

View attachment 664754
Does the clock strike the full hours only? If so, the count lever end should be bent a bit to the right side so that it enters the middle of the slot. Right now it is very close to the left end of the slot.
One other thing came to mind, if all this didn't help. I once had to bush the hole in the count wheel because there was excessive play which made the strike unreliable (and unpredictable).

Uhralt

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
Does the clock strike the full hours only? If so, the count lever end should be bent a bit to the right side so that it enters the middle of the slot. Right now it is very close to the left end of the slot.
One other thing came to mind, if all this didn't help. I once had to bush the hole in the count wheel because there was excessive play which made the strike unreliable (and unpredictable).

Uhralt
It does only strike full hours I will center the count lever end, still having some issues but I have improved the skip striking down to once in a while. I will look at bushing the count wheel as well.

#### RJSoftware

##### Registered User
The control cam, has one notch that allows count wheel lever finger to feel for opportunity of a gap in countwheel which allows lever to drop in front of pinned wheel pin.

The angle of the countwheel's finger isn't necessarily 90 degrees. Altering the angle slightly is acceptable for fine tuning control cam countwheel ldver relationship.

If yours is meant to do one gong for half hour, then try bending finger for more reliable drop into slot action.

A click type pen has an excellent spring to make a assistance/helper spring. Perfectly thin and compliant

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JimmyOz

#### shutterbug

##### Moderator
Staff member
NAWCC Member
Often the 90° bend makes the count lever line up with the next tooth better. That's OK. It will react to the next deep slot just fine.

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
Thanks to all, I have gone for 25 Hours without a mistep, I need to adjust the time keeping and delivery to my customer!

shutterbug

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
Thanks to all, I have gone for 25 Hours without a mistep, I need to adjust the time keeping and delivery to my customer!
One last post 3 days of proper striking, I also had a goofy pendulum set so time keeping was a problem I modifyed what was there and overcame the lack of being able to adjust the time keeping. I have one more issue the time winding drum is wood and have flat metal piece between the drum and ratchet & gear assembly. When I started I removed the heavy brass cable and replaced it with braided .060 (150# test) cord. fully wound it will go between drum and the flat metal piece causing a jam. any ideas?

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#### Uhralt

NAWCC Member
One last post 3 days of proper striking, I also had a goofy pendulum set so time keeping was a problem I modifyed what was there and overcame the lack of being able to adjust the time keeping.
Sounds good. What did you find was the root cause of the strike problem?

Uhralt

#### Les Sanders

NAWCC Member
Sounds good. What did you find was the root cause of the strike problem?

Uhralt
Centering the blade seem to work very well!

Uhralt

#### JimmyOz

##### Registered User
fully wound it will go between drum and the flat metal piece causing a jam. any ideas?
Do you have to much cord attached? Wind the drum till the cord hits the brass disk, slip a brass washer on the cord and then the hook for the weight, the brass disk will hit the underside of the seatboard and stop you from winding to far.

#### Uhralt

NAWCC Member
Do you have to much cord attached? Wind the drum till the cord hits the brass disk, slip a brass washer on the cord and then the hook for the weight, the brass disk will hit the underside of the seatboard and stop you from winding to far.
Yes, and you can get one more turn of the barrel when you use the left-most groove right where the cord comes out of the barrel. Right now you are starting with the second groove. Just take the weight off and move all the layers one groove to the left.

Uhralt

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