Winding stops/ Hermle 1161.

disciple_dan

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I hope you can see this clearly enough. As I was putting these stops on with the movement installed, I couldn't figure out how to make the stops the same number of teeth away from the long tooth so they will stop at even heights. As you might be able to see the strike stop is 4 teeth frim the long one, the Time is 3 away and the chime is 5 away. The weights are all even now but I don't think they will stop at the same height when I remove the shipping blocks. Thanks, Danny
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disciple_dan

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I think that most customers expect them to be, don't they? I do! I just thought that's the way it should be:???::???:
 

wow

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I think that most customers expect them to be, don't they? I do! I just thought that's the way it should be:???::???:
They change positions as the clock runs, the chime weight moving further at each 1/4 and the strike weight moving further as the hours advance, so I never worry about whether they start the same. Just close is ok I think.JMO.
Will
 

disciple_dan

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Hey, to each his own. I'm just a freak that way. It doesn't really matter I guess.
Is there a way to make them all even when wound to a full stop? Thanks, Danny
 

wow

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LOL I’m sure there must be a way. I just never tried to do it. So, after it strikes 12, the strike weight is lower than the other two. Does that bother you?
 

disciple_dan

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Isn't it that if you wind the weights up to even, after 12 hours they are all even again? (on most clocks) Thanks, Will. Danny
 

wow

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Isn't it that if you wind the weights up to even, after 12 hours they are all even again? (on most clocks) Thanks, Will. Danny
I guess that’s true after twelve hours but I’ve never really noticed unless one is way off. Then I know something is not working right. If you use the night cut off on chimes and strike, the time weight is, of course, way off at the end of the week. I have a Vienna with grand sonnerie that both 1/4 hours are always right but at the end of the week, the strike weight is about an inch lower than the other two. Don’t know why. Interesting!
 

Peter John

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Those stops work on the all the way down position as well. If they’re not set up right the weight may hit the stop position when it’s only halfway down. On the hermle movement there are 2 stop positions. One for all the way up and the other for all the way down. I set them up with the weights all the way up. If you can get a hermle service manual that will make the job easier. Otherwise it’s a lot of fiddling and frustration. Peter
 
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disciple_dan

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If you can get a hermle service manual that will make the job easier. Otherwise it’s a lot of fiddling and frustration. Peter
Yeah, I forgot that I have a Hermle service manual. I'll check it out today. Thank you, Danny
 

NEW65

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I did an 1171 yesterday. I managed to set all three weights at the same level when wound to highest possible position. If I go too high I just release the click and try and again. I definitely must have issues as I always ensure the weights are set level in their highest positions but not too high to avoid cable tightening in wheels.
 

disciple_dan

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I always ensure the weights are set level in their highest positions
Do you do that by letting out the cable and positioning the long tooth in one of the 4 possible positions get them as close as possible? Thanks, Danny
 

Peter John

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Danny, did you check your hermle manual? Any setting other than the correct one in the all the way up position will result in the weights not going all the way down before they hit the stops. Peter
 

disciple_dan

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I looked at the manual and it says that there are 18 turns. It speaks of setting them with the cables let out all the way and in a starting position that will not let the end of the cable come loose at the bottom of the run. I set them with the weights all the way up. This clock belongs to my neighbor so I'm letting it run down and hoping that I was fortunate and got it right. So far, so good. I'll know Saturday.
Thanks, Danny
 

Willie X

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Most weights stop (at the top) about 3 inches down from the lower edge of the plate. This is the way they come from the factory, as most modern clocks have a split wooden rail below the seat-board to prevent the pulleys/weights from going up to high. Just at (or below) these wooden stops is where the top stopping point should be.

I always adjust the stop-works for the stop at the top, and let the stop at the bottom take care of itself.

Notes: The factory recommends replacing the cables, when you're working on a clock more than 10 years old. When you have trouble with uneven weight positions, it's often due to a stretched cable. Replace them as a set unless the clock is nearly new.

To test, put the movement in the case, and using a 4# weight, crank the weight up and down several times with the the click released. This is a sure fire way to test the stop-works and weigh positions, both top and bottom.

Willie X
 
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disciple_dan

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Most weights stop (at the top) about 3 inches down from the lower edge of the plate. This is the way they come from the factory, as most modern clocks have a split wooden rail below the seat-board to prevent the pulleys/weights from going up to high. Just at (or below) these wooden stops is where the top stopping point should be.

I always adjust the stop-works for the stop at the top, and let the stop at the bottom take care of itself.

Notes: The factory recommends replacing the cables, when you're working on a clock more than 10 years old. When you have trouble with uneven weight positions, it's often due to a stretched cable. Replace them as a set unless the clock is nearly new.

To test, put the movement in the case, and using a 4# weight, crank the weight up and down several times with the the click released. This is a sure fire way to test the stop-works and weigh positions, both top and bottom.

Willie X
Thanks, Willie X. It's been running all week. The strike weight stopped about halfway down. The others I was fortunate enough to get correct. Danny
That's where I heard replace if 10 years old. Thanks, Danny
 

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