Who makes what?

Discussion in 'Wrist Watches' started by Marty Rougeaux, Feb 17, 2001.

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  1. Jerry posted an interesting question about mov't makers so I thought I would ask for your input on who is now considered a manufacturer. As I understand, the watch house must make at least 1 model that is produced on the premises to be considered a manufacturer. There are probably less than 20 left today. Some of the ones that I know are A. Lange & Sohne, Urban Jurgensen & Sonner, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Glashutte Orig, Girard Perregaux, Piaget, Audemars-Piguet, Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, Chopard, Minerva, IWC and Zenith. Breguet is probably still considered but I am not sure since they are part of the Lemania group. This list may seem extensive but look who is not here any longer - Omega, Movado, Longines!!, Ebel, Corum, Baume & Mercier, Heuer, etc, etc - and of course the golden boys - Daniel Roth, Franck Muller and Paul Picot. Please correct, add or dispute. Coming soon - who makes what for whom. Like GP for Bertolucci and others. Marty
     
  2. Jerry posted an interesting question about mov't makers so I thought I would ask for your input on who is now considered a manufacturer. As I understand, the watch house must make at least 1 model that is produced on the premises to be considered a manufacturer. There are probably less than 20 left today. Some of the ones that I know are A. Lange & Sohne, Urban Jurgensen & Sonner, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Glashutte Orig, Girard Perregaux, Piaget, Audemars-Piguet, Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, Chopard, Minerva, IWC and Zenith. Breguet is probably still considered but I am not sure since they are part of the Lemania group. This list may seem extensive but look who is not here any longer - Omega, Movado, Longines!!, Ebel, Corum, Baume & Mercier, Heuer, etc, etc - and of course the golden boys - Daniel Roth, Franck Muller and Paul Picot. Please correct, add or dispute. Coming soon - who makes what for whom. Like GP for Bertolucci and others. Marty
     
  3. Cary

    Cary Guest

    Looks like you covered it pretty well, I found a link to a list on the Horology Index that listed everything but havent been over it in a while.. Now what US companies would have made that list, all of them? Didnt Bulova even produce some from scratch? Here is one of my current favorites on the list, but it is a little small. Dont see to many s/S Piaget's..

    http://www.zing.com/picture/p1b281026521a4d1f5a9bc0fbd02cfaea/ff3278bb.jpg.orig.jpg



    [This message has been edited by Cary (edited 02-17-2001).]
     
  4. Dave Haynes

    Dave Haynes Registered User

    Sep 12, 2000
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    Marty: I may be wrong, but Girard Perregaux
    used Peseux, Zodiac and a variety of others
    but never made their own. Piaget and Chopard
    used ebauche movements.
    Of the modern companies (survivors) only
    LeCoultre, Rolex, Patek and Zenith make their
    own movements. Most other survivors use ETA
    AS or Frederic Piguet.
     
  5. Dave, This is an area where I won't get too lofty. We all would probably be surprised by who really makes what for whom. Once again, they only have to make one model to be considered a manufacturer. I won't argue the fact but considering that GP comes out each year with a new design based on their famous 3 bridge - now a chrono, I find it hard to believe that this is not entirely made by their house. Remember, they were probably the 1st of the Swiss houses to make their own quartz. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Marty
     
  6. Dave Haynes

    Dave Haynes Registered User

    Sep 12, 2000
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    Marty: I think what people are interested in
    asking the question about who makes movements
    is: Is the watch I'm buying at my local
    jeweler made by GP, or Omega etc.? Just because a company make a single expensive
    one-off watch doesn't answer that question.
    People should know that Omega now uses ETA
    and that Movado is now a junk quartz watch seller. They should know when these companies
    started using ebauche movements so they can
    look for the real thing on the vintage market. I'm not saying that an ETA based
    IWC isn't a good watch, because it is. It just isn't as good in my mind as a real IWC made watch. and the vintage Movado is a really fine watch compared to the modern junk they sell. Get my drift?
     
  7. Tom McIntyre

    Tom McIntyre Technical Admin
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    It seems to me that making the watch from "scratch" and finishing and modifying a raw ebauche are very similar activities. Shouldn't one distinguish between those who just add the case and styling elements and those that add adjustments and even features to the basic ebauche?

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  8. Dave Haynes

    Dave Haynes Registered User

    Sep 12, 2000
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    Steve: The Bestfit book is where I'm getting my info. and under Girard Perregaux I stand corrected, I see three movements made by G.P.
    out of 81 listed!All the rest are ebache movements. The reference to Zodiac is from the Bestfit #2 which lists automatic parts for G.P. 31 11 1/2L "see Zodiac 70", but then Zodiac 70 is actually made by A.Schild....ahhhh! Every G.P. manual wind I've ever seen has a Peseux movement, which are great by the way. The only real Piaget I've seen had an A.S. movt. but they are an old and very high end company.
     
  9. Dave Haynes

    Dave Haynes Registered User

    Sep 12, 2000
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    Steve: Thanks for the clarity and you're right, the ebauche list doesn't always tell the whole story.
    I've seen some of the Valjoux 7750 based
    G.P. chronographs (in pictures) and they are really doing some fine work at the factory.

    I've got some old "Watchmakers of Switzerland"catalogues and they have some
    G.P. movements that look like ETA 1000s in shape but are made by G.P. Actually my favorite book is an old Paulson "fingerprint"
    book that shows the movements from the bridge
    side, not the dial side. It is a real help when trying to find some old obscure watch.
    Question: Are all the 39 jewels functional
    on those GP Gyromatics?
     
  10. Tom Huber

    Tom Huber Registered User
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    As for watches still made in-house, What about Blancpain. I have a brochure form them which specifically states how they go about making their own. Is this true or is it misleading advertising? Tom
     
  11. Dave Haynes

    Dave Haynes Registered User

    Sep 12, 2000
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    Steve:I've seen the infamous "100 Jewel"
    Waltham; talk about useless jewels!
    I too like the simple cam design of the 19A
    which is used in somewhat the same way by
    IWC autos and some Seikos. Not a lot of wasted energy there and so simple.
    I've owned a couple of Universal Geneve
    Polerouters and I don't think the micro rotor
    was particularly efficient, same for the
    Hamilton/Buren Thin-o-matic. They had the same tiny fragile parts that were the demise of the thumpers.
     
  12. Answer to Tom Mc - Unfortunatly Tom, as you know, some of the good questions get lost when we have an active session. I am surprised that your's has not attracted more action. I agree, there should be and is, a great distinction. Marty
     
  13. Tom Huber-Re: Blancpain. Tom, I don't think it is misleading. I'm sure that all the movements are Piguet-the sister co. Also, I believe that they promote the philosophy - "one technicion one watch" (to paraphrase)
     

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