History Welch Reg #6 Case/Wood parts

[CCD79]

I have just inherited my Great grandparent’s Welch Spring Co. Regulator #6 and it missing several of the decorative wooden parts. I know this is likely very common with theses “finial-like“ parts, but this is very new to me.

How do I get replacements?
What type of wood are they?
Can any woodworker turn these part on a lathe? Or should I look for original parts?
Will they be able to closely match the stain & finish’s age if made new?

Enclosed is a picture of a fully intact clock like the one I now have which identifies the parts I don’t have.

 

[Steve Neul]

Not every woodworker has a lathe but many do. Can't tell from the photograph what the wood is. Is it just pieces missing off the finials. I'm not seeing any missing parts. If the damage is minor it may be possible to do what is called a burn-in patch. It's a process where colored shellac stick are melted into a void with a soldering iron with a flat blade like a putty knife. There will also be difficulty matching the color. The wood, stain and finish changes color as it ages. Sometimes you can get the stain color right but the overall color looks wrong because the old finish has yellowed. It sometimes takes amber shellac to recreate the aged look of the old finish. It really takes someone experienced with touch up work on antiques to match the color. It may be you could get a woodworker to make and install the finials and then take the case to a refinishing shop for the finish.

If you can't get someone local to do the work I might be able to help you. You would need to remove one of the finials and mail it to me so I could use as a pattern. I have a lathe and I'm a furniture refinisher. I believe I could mail back the finished finials and you would just have to install them. It may take some drilling on the case because likely the finials have a dowel made on them where they attach to the clock.

 

[CCD79]

Not every woodworker has a lathe but many do. Can't tell from the photograph what the wood is. Is it just pieces missing off the finials. I'm not seeing any missing parts. If the damage is minor it may be possible to do what is called a burn-in patch. It's a process where colored shellac stick are melted into a void with a soldering iron with a flat blade like a putty knife. There will also be difficulty matching the color. The wood, stain and finish changes color as it ages. Sometimes you can get the stain color right but the overall color looks wrong because the old finish has yellowed. It sometimes takes amber shellac to recreate the aged look of the old finish. It really takes someone experienced with touch up work on antiques to match the color. It may be you could get a woodworker to make and install the finials and then take the case to a refinishing shop for the finish.

If you can't get someone local to do the work I might be able to help you. You would need to remove one of the finials and mail it to me so I could use as a pattern. I have a lathe and I'm a furniture refinisher. I believe I could mail back the finished finials and you would just have to install them. It may take some drilling on the case because likely the finials have a dowel made on them where they attach to the clock.

I appreciate the response and information. The picture is of a complete clock the same as mine. If you open up the picture I have circled the parts that are missing. There will need to be some repair work on the bottom where the dowels previously inserted into the casing. the entire decorative part that forms the base is missing. Would you like me to send a picture of my clock?

 

[Steve Neul]

I appreciate the response and information. The picture is of a complete clock the same as mine. If you open up the picture I have circled the parts that are missing. There will need to be some repair work on the bottom where the dowels previously inserted into the casing. the entire decorative part that forms the base is missing. Would you like me to send a picture of my clock?

Pictures might help however it sounds like I would have to have the entire clockcase to repair it. I thought it was just a matter of making a few finials. Then if you wanted an authentic restoration it would involve making the tooling to reproduce the molding at the bottom which could get expensive. When you duplicate molding a set of cutting knives like this has to be made. The steel runs about 40 bucks an inch and takes most of a day to make a set. It would be easier if the design could be changed a little using knives already made.

 

[CCD79]

You answered part of my concerns as the bottom piece is completely missing and I’ve found only the one picture of what should be there. Looking at it again, I think the small drop finials could be manufactured and adhered to remaining part (with clamps & the appropriate adhesive) without having to remake the missing portion of the casing as the exterior or visible portion is intact. Thoughts?
From what you’ve said, it sounds like the most inferior portion May need to be recreated without a guide and MAY be something to delay as the process you describe sounds like a small fortune.
Although, looking back at the “online example“ clock shows the last, missing tier may have just been a 3rd graduated molding that matches the previous 2 and a similar drop finial as the superior drop finials, only without the (“double drop” 3rd& 4th pictures) base. The base may be recreated to match using one of the existing molding & 1 of the 2 drop finials attached to the top of the clock. *See enclosed pictures.
You really have helped me work through this and I appreciate you. Tell me what you think from the additional pictures? Even if the base is not exactly like the original, it seems like it will be very near and satisfy me, as the clock will Not be sold, just kept and treasured.
I’m going to check with a local antique furniture restorer in Macon that has done good work in the past. He has been able to match some old family pieces and feel he May be able to do the same here.

 

[Steve Neul]

You answered part of my concerns as the bottom piece is completely missing and I’ve found only the one picture of what should be there. Looking at it again, I think the small drop finials could be manufactured and adhered to remaining part (with clamps & the appropriate adhesive) without having to remake the missing portion of the casing as the exterior or visible portion is intact. Thoughts?
From what you’ve said, it sounds like the most inferior portion May need to be recreated without a guide and MAY be something to delay as the process you describe sounds like a small fortune.
Although, looking back at the “online example“ clock shows the last, missing tier may have just been a 3rd graduated molding that matches the previous 2 and a similar drop finial as the superior drop finials, only without the (“double drop” 3rd& 4th pictures) base. The base may be recreated to match using one of the existing molding & 1 of the 2 drop finials attached to the top of the clock. *See enclosed pictures.
You really have helped me work through this and I appreciate you. Tell me what you think from the additional pictures? Even if the base is not exactly like the original, it seems like it will be very near and satisfy me, as the clock will Not be sold, just kept and treasured.
I’m going to check with a local antique furniture restorer in Macon that has done good work in the past. He has been able to match some old family pieces and feel he May be able to do the same here.

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I looked again at the picture in your first post and made a sketch of what I think the missing bottom piece looked like. I then when through my cutting knives and I can make something similar to it

. The first sketch in my picture is the drawing and the second was traced off my knives. What is missing in planning this is scale and dimensions. The overall molding at the bottom it would be helpful to know how tall it is from bottom of the clock. Then I would need an estimate on how tall the replacement molding should be without the finial. The knives I picked out would have a range of 1 1/8" to 1 3/8" tall. I would also need width and depth of the flat area where the molding is missing. Except for the big square base the finial on the bottom is probably the same as what you are showing.

It's possible I may be able to make the parts without having the entire case. What may be difficult is the color. Turned parts nearly always stain darker so if I were to stain the molding to match the finials it would be too dark. I would need something that matches the color of the molding at the bottom