Useful Hints and Tricks (open thread)

kinsler33

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Aug 17, 2014
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Sometimes a quartz movement uses an external power supply, but there are no replacement movements supplied with power wires instead of an on-board battery.

So to replace such a movement, you'd take the old movement's power wires and solder them to the contacts of the new movement's battery holder.

Problem: those battery holder terminals are made of some weird stainless steel and cannot be used with soft solder (I dunno about silver solder.) Drove me nuts on several clocks until I came up with this horological wonder:

Note that to the untutored observer it looks much like a wooden replica of a size AA battery. And that's precisely what it is, fashioned from a piece of 1/2 inch wood dowel rod I had. I sawed it off, marked one end + and the other end - , and drove a brass-plated upholstery tack into each end. It seems to work best if you capture the stripped wire leads beneath the tack heads (thumbtacks with nickel-plated heads would work as well.)

Secure the wires to the tack head with soft solder and you're done: just stick the phony battery into the battery holder.

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this before.

M Kinsler

wooden size AA cell.JPG
 

shimmystep

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I was replacing the hammer leather on a Lenzkirch today, a customers mantel clock. I thought someone may appreciate a tip or two when doing this.

Cut the leather, enough to fold over.
20180708_184500.jpg


Soak it in water with a some PVA glue in it. I added a little more water in the mix you see below.
20180708_184555.jpg


Fold it over, shape it in a split stake, and close it up in a vice
20180708_184111.jpg


Take it out when dried up
20180708_192032.jpg


Cut to length, glues it in, and shape the end with sand paper.
20180708_192130.jpg
 
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kinsler33

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I think someone mentioned recently that you can knurl the outside of a loose press-in bushing by rolling on a file, and while that works well, I've discovered that my coarse diamond files do a better job of this than a steel file.

In the pictures I've put a piece of discarded pendulum rod, fairly hard steel on this one, between my two coarsest diamond files (https://timesavers.com/i-9605367-6-piece-diamond-file-set.html) and pressed down fairly hard on the top file while rolling (not scraping) the poor little steel rod between them.

The resulting knurl is quite uneven and looks just like the diamonds on the surface of the coarse file (enlarge the last picture if it'll enlarge.) But the diamonds dig deep and displace a lot of metal, and when you try pressing, say, an arbor thus knurled into a wheel you'll get a thoroughly businesslike fit that shouldn't ever come loose. Much nicer than Loctite: faster and more secure.

Mark Kinsler

knurling1of3.jpg knurling2of3.jpg knurling3of3.jpg
 

B. J. Taylor

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More useful hints and tricks

I was surprized to see the thread closed. If you can remember back years ago in Popular Mechanics there was always a how to, shortcut or as I like to refer to as hints and tricks. I was in the shop last night finishing up a cuckoo that has been a pain for way too long and thought that I should post a couple of items.

Here you go. The first one is a wire (1/16 stainless tig wire) with a bend on each end. When working on a cuckoo it is really handy to attach the weights to the wires rather than opening up the chain links and attaching the weights to the hooks. Simply one hook goes on the chain and the other on the weight. I also use this for fishing the chain through the case.

The next two are the same concepts just two diferent materials. If you ever have to transport a GF or any other clock with chime rods it may drive you crazy before you get back to the shop. These "cards" side on to the rods keeping them in place. This also lessens the chance of a bend or broken rod while in transport. I keep a credit card / room key in my wallet and the others go in my tool bag.

For what it is worth!:)
If it ain't broke don't fix it

I use styrofoam sections to slide over the rods, A burger box or most carry out food boxes works well as well as florist foam used in making floral decorations. Just push the rods through the form and no more problem or noise.
 

Nannas400

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These little shop made tools are excellent to permanently scribe a concentric circle around a worn hole. It also helps you make judgement on how good you are doing your bushing placement. Both tools are made with a 3/8" body. One has a 5/32" center finder and scribes a 3 mm circle, the larger one has a 1/8" finder and scribes a 4 1/2 mm circle. Measurements are approximate, you can make it to fit the job/s at hand.
Cross hair marks can be made with nothing more than a length of 5/32" drill rod ground to a 45 degree angle and a steel straight edge. The point is both the finder and scribe. The tip is 90 degrees angle (included) like a nail set. The straight edge needs to be about 3/32" thick.
I like the circle location much better than the crosshair but either can be used effectively.
Willie X. View attachment 479866
Hi Willie X,
Can I ask for clarification for dumb me, is the needle to fix the centrr and the sleeve for scribing roubd? If so, yes I appreciate the clever and will copy with thanks.
 

docdoc

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Nov 11, 2020
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Re: Useful Hints and Tricks

Here; A beat amplifier for the severely hearing impaired:
ALTEC 807 enclosure with 511 sectoral horns and two, 15", 4168B woofers and X-over.
KIENZLE under test.
I am a retired physician. I use my stethoscope against the clock case to hear the beat. It is quite loud.
A stethoscope with a “bell” that has a soft edge is best. My hearing is only slightly impaired so I am
not sure about value in others. It is also helpful if you are in a room with multiple ticking clocks.
 

shutterbug

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