Useful Hints and Tricks •

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Tony10Clocks

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Re: Handy hint

Excellent idea.......... I could try that whilst eating my biccies...... :D
 

Patch

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Re: Handy hint

Hobbyist chiming in: I paint houses for a living. I have a 4'x12' drop cloth, that I cut in half, and I lay the the 2 halves side by side, to make it 8'x6'. It works well for those parts, that either grow wings, or feet, and try to make a fast break. With the canvas being white, it makers finding them, very easy.
 

Scottie-TX

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Re: Handy hint

Agreeing with PATCH, only change I would make is - if available - white paper to make the hunt a bit easier.
 

bangster

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Re: Bangster's Bright Idea

USEFUL HINTS & TRICKS INDEX

FOR LOCKED THREAD THROUGH POST #53
AND ONGOING THREAD (LINK) THROUGH POST 252
(NUMBERS WITH LETTER “b”.)


Adhesive
mixing epoxy 48b
Alignment
winding arbor alignment 20,21,31,32,77b
Animal hair
uses for 50b,51b,52b,53b
Arbor
winding arbor alignment 20,21,31,32,77b
Bottles
pill bottles 1,2; spice bottles 191b
Bushing
bushing aid 5; making bushings 212b
Chain
determining chain size 33
Containers
pill bottles 1,2; spice bottles 191b; 14b,15b
Cuckoo
testing rack for cuckoos 167b,172b,173b
Dial
re-holing a dial 35
Dremel
opening hand hole 206b; uses 218b,219b
Drill, Drilling
drill oblique holes 29; drill press 27b,28b,29b,32b; sizing drill bits 131
Epoxy
mixing epoxy 48b
Escapement
escapement analyzer 232b
Furniture
typing table workbench 4; tensor lamp stand 6
Gauge
gauges 36; feeler gauge 38b
Hand
opening hand hole 206b
Hermle
Hermle winding tool 23
Holder
tensor lamp stand 6; test stand 26; oil bottle holder 40,41; movement holder 7; roulant holder 37
Lathe
lathe cover 4; tools from cut nails 17; tapping with lathe 27b; lathe hints 35b,38b; center finder 239b; testing lathe center 13
Letdown
letdown aid 24; letdown tool 25,48,92b;222b
Lighting
tensor lamp stand 6
Lubricants
oil bottle holder 40,41; oil dippers 47; WD-40 144b,149b
Mainspring
measuring mainspring 28; servicing mainspring 28
Materials
cut nails 17; bicycle spokes 188b; styrofoam 16; geneva stop retainers 252b; shim stock 38
Movement
movement holder 7; roulant holder 37
Pendulum
pendulum slip joint 22; pendulum stick repair 151b,152b; temporary pendulum 250b
Photography
pictures with loupe 244b,248b
Pivot
polishing pivots 243b; door hinge pivot polisher 42
Plate
plate supporter 12; plate spreading tool 39
Procedures
make a thin washer 3; measure mainspring length 28; service mainspring 28; re-holing a dial 35; the shotgun approach 46; tapping 28b,29b,32b; crushing shellac 177b,183b; gathering pallet removal 199b; opening hand hole 206b; making bushings 212; polishing pivots 243b; drill oblique holes 29; striking clock tutorial 45
Regulation
fine-tuning regulation 157b,160b; discussion of regulating 165b
Screw
screw sizing plate, screw shortening aid 38; dropped screw catcher 49,52; nut & bolt sizer 124b;
Shellac
crushing shellac 177b
Shim stock
shim stock 38
Soldering
soldering aid 9,10,18,19
Stand
tensor lamp stand 6; test stand 26
Tapping
tapping with drill press or lathe 28b,29b,32b
Tools
clamp 8; pickup tools 14; magnetized screwdriver 15; styrofoam circle cutter 16; tools from cut nails 17; Hermle winding tool 23; tweezers from hemostat 30; gauges 36; plate spreading tool 39; door hinge pivot polisher 42; pullers 43; razorblade radio 67b; nut & bolt sizer 124b; Dremel 218b, 219b;
Tweezers
about tweezers 27; tweezers from hemostat 30
Ultrasonic
ultasonic hints 44
Washer
make a thin washer 3; tension washer 12
Winding
winding arbor alignment 20,21,31,32,77b; Hermle winding tool 23
 
Last edited:

bkerr

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I was surprized to see the thread closed. If you can remember back years ago in Popular Mechanics there was always a how to, shortcut or as I like to refer to as hints and tricks. I was in the shop last night finishing up a cuckoo that has been a pain for way too long and thought that I should post a couple of items.

Here you go. The first one is a wire (1/16 stainless tig wire) with a bend on each end. When working on a cuckoo it is really handy to attach the weights to the wires rather than opening up the chain links and attaching the weights to the hooks. Simply one hook goes on the chain and the other on the weight. I also use this for fishing the chain through the case.

The next two are the same concepts just two diferent materials. If you ever have to transport a GF or any other clock with chime rods it may drive you crazy before you get back to the shop. These "cards" side on to the rods keeping them in place. This also lessens the chance of a bend or broken rod while in transport. I keep a credit card / room key in my wallet and the others go in my tool bag.

For what it is worth!:)
 

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jhe.1973

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Useful Hints and Tricks Sticky (index at post #54)

Hi Everyone,

I figured this might be the best place to post this

I am re-working the drive for a small mill & am using a turnbuckle for the belt tension adjustment. It is heavily galvanized & I needed to cut the threads larger in a 3/8-16 nut for a locknut. If I cleaned up the shaft threads with a die to use a standard nut, the shaft would have been very sloppy in the turnbuckle.

Sooooooo, time for an old timey trick I learned from my dad 40+ years ago.

First I tried tapping through a rag which often works:

47.jpg

This time it didn’t enlarge the threads enough so time to be more aggressive. This shim is .010 inch thick:

48.jpg

Here is how it looked after a few turns:

49.jpg

Finished:

50.jpg

Originally the nut wouldn’t even go on past the end chamfer - less than one turn.

I’ve probably only needed this trick 5 or 6 times since first seeing it, but it sure has saved the day each of those times.
 

bangster

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Re: Useful Hints and Tricks Sticky (index at post #54)

sequence
 

dad1891

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Hopefully this will save someone some aggravation in the future:

A while back I got a clock with a Hermle 1051 that had been run for a couple of years and put back in the box to age. I took it apart, inspected it, cleaned and reassembled. The clock ran fine, but the timekeeping was very erratic. I took it back apart and inspected everything and didn't find any problems. Put it back together and it was better, but still erratic. It would run great for a week, then I would wind it and it would start losing 30 seconds a day. I would wind it the next week and it would start gaining 15 seconds a day, the next week it would gain 2 minutes a day, etc. Long story short, on the 4th disassembly, just before I threw the damn thing in the trash, I noticed that there was absolutely no chamfer on the T3R pivot hole. The handshaft appeared to be square cut without any radius, but I didn't know what else to do, so I put about 1/64" chamfer on that pivot hole. It runs like a different clock. Best timekeeper I have. I am guessing that the chamfer was missed at the factory.

This was a lesson learned the hard way.
 

bangster

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In many older clocks, the minute hand doesn't attach to the center shaft, but to a "minute pipe" or "minute cannon" that fits over the center shaft. The cannon pinion is the pinion or gear on the minute cannon.

cannon pinion 1a.jpg

When the minute hand attaches directly to the center shaft, the cannon pinion is the pinion on the center shaft, next to the front plate.

cannon pinion 2.jpg
 

kinsler33

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Sometimes a quartz movement uses an external power supply, but there are no replacement movements supplied with power wires instead of an on-board battery.

So to replace such a movement, you'd take the old movement's power wires and solder them to the contacts of the new movement's battery holder.

Problem: those battery holder terminals are made of some weird stainless steel and cannot be used with soft solder (I dunno about silver solder.) Drove me nuts on several clocks until I came up with this horological wonder:

Note that to the untutored observer it looks much like a wooden replica of a size AA battery. And that's precisely what it is, fashioned from a piece of 1/2 inch wood dowel rod I had. I sawed it off, marked one end + and the other end - , and drove a brass-plated upholstery tack into each end. It seems to work best if you capture the stripped wire leads beneath the tack heads (thumbtacks with nickel-plated heads would work as well.)

Secure the wires to the tack head with soft solder and you're done: just stick the phony battery into the battery holder.

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this before.

M Kinsler

wooden size AA cell.JPG
 

kinsler33

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Aug 17, 2014
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Sometimes a quartz movement uses an external power supply, but there are no replacement movements supplied with power wires instead of an on-board battery.

So to replace such a movement, you'd take the old movement's power wires and solder them to the contacts of the new movement's battery holder.

Problem: those battery holder terminals are made of some weird stainless steel and cannot be used with soft solder (I dunno about silver solder.) Drove me nuts on several clocks until I came up with this horological wonder:

Note that to the untutored observer it looks much like a wooden replica of a size AA battery. And that's precisely what it is, fashioned from a piece of 1/2 inch wood dowel rod I had. I sawed it off, marked one end + and the other end - , and drove a brass-plated upholstery tack into each end. It seems to work best if you capture the stripped wire leads beneath the tack heads (thumbtacks with nickel-plated heads would work as well.)

Secure the wires to the tack head with soft solder and you're done: just stick the phony battery into the battery holder.

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this before.

M Kinsler

wooden size AA cell.JPG
 
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