Urgos Bim-Bam Question

Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by kologha, Nov 27, 2018.

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  1. kologha

    kologha Registered User

    Dec 11, 2011
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    My Urgos Bim-Bam Mantel clock has arrived but I see it has two chime rods and three hammers, one hammer strikes fresh air between the two chime rods. I thought at first the centre chime rod had broken off, but there is no sign that it was ever there as there is just a hole in the chime block. I would have thought that if one of the chime rods had broken off, the screw and stub of the broken rod would have remained behind. Underneath the clock it has "3 Slab Bimbam" stamped in ink, obviously done when it was manufactured. Can anyone confirm whether it might have been made with only two chime rods?
     
  2. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    if you could add some pictures it would help - the dial, the movement area and especially the chime block and hammers
     
  3. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    Pics as requested.

    Argos 1.jpg IMG_6202.JPG IMG_6201.JPG
     
  4. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    You do have a missing rod - it goes in that center hole. This bim bam is set up to strike one note on the 1/2 hour and the dual bim bam strike on the hour from what I can see.

    You will notice that one hammer is by itself on a separate strike mechanism and the other two hammers move together. Either the center rod broke or it was removed to make it just a single note bim on the hour strike.

    You can get a replacement rod, but finding the right note might be tricky. You need a rod the same diameter as the one in the front in the picture, but you may or may not want the same length. And if that center rod is not tuned just right they do sound rather off to a trained ear.
     
  5. kologha

    kologha Registered User

    Dec 11, 2011
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    I have just removed the chime block and find that there is a screw in the centre hole, which someone has had a go at with a pair of vise-grips! So my question is answered, it left the factory with three chime rods. Now how do I get the screw out seeing as how vise-grips were unable to remove it. It also has been drilled with a 3mm drill into the back of the screw but obviously they could not drill the chime rod out as the broken stub is still there.

    IMG_6204.JPG
     
  6. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    I use an impact wrench with screw driver attachment. Timesavers has two 3 rod units for about $15.00. I would go that route.
     
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  7. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

    Feb 9, 2008
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    Usually you can knock out what's left of the old rod with a 3/32 punch. This will give you a nice concentric pilot hole. Then drill using a bit that won't quite take out any part of the old threads. Fileing off what's left of the old buggered up slotted end will make drilling easier. This will leave a thin shell that usually can be picked out, or screwed out with screwdriver with sharply ground edges at the sides.

    Note, easyouts don't work to well in this situation, but if you have a set, by all means Willie X
     
  8. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    I have never had any joy with 'easy outs'. Will try a screwdriver bit in a pair of visegrips and use a small hammer to tap away while putting torque on the visegrips, what is known in SA as 'making a plan'! I have loosened many fasteners with this method. Failing that I will try your method Willie. What about using a piece of 3mm diameter piano wire (hardened & tempered steel wire) as a replacement chime rod?
     
  9. roughbarked

    roughbarked Registered User

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    It may help to heat it up first.
     
  10. chimeclockfan

    chimeclockfan Registered User
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    The Urgos copper rods are typically 2.4 MM or 2.8 MM diameter. If you can furnish the captive brass threads and source suitable tempered wire, you could try making new rods from scratch.
     
  11. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    I've got 2.5mm tempered wire and should not have a problem making a new end to hold it in place in the chime block so then all I will need to do is tune it! Sounds so simple but I'll give it a bash and see how I go. I have been away today so have not had a chance to to do anything about removing the old stub.
     
  12. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    If you have an iPhone you might want to get the free AP Tuner Lite - it will tell you what your current rods are tuned at - and let you precisely tune the new rod to match whatever note you want it to be. Even if your current rods are sharp or flat from the true note - this AP will let you tune the new rod accordingly to match
     
  13. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    Thanks but I don't have an iPhone and my PC works with Linux Mint (Da Tuner works on Windows & Mac PC's).
     
  14. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    might any of these work - I loaded one to Linux Ubuntu and it seems okay -

    Instrument Tuners [Linux-Sound]
     
  15. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    A KORG CA-40 doesn't cost much and will tune just about anything. If you buy any type electronic tuner, make sure it has a 'sliding scale' feature. Clock chime rods are rarely tuned to a true scale. The sliding scale will allow you to acomodate any tuning that is slightly, or greatly, off from a standard tone.

    A cheap and easy way out is to buy a set of Westminster pre-tuned rods of approximately the right length. Use the 1st, 3rd, and 4th rods. The first being the highest pitch first note and the 3rd and 4th together (chord) being the second. If you like the sound, your done.

    Note, I like the two second notes to be identical. This sort of reinforces the second note and makes it louder. This is easy to do by simply cutting the 4th (longest) rod off until the tone matches the 3rd rod. Cut it longer than the 3rd rod and slowly file or grind (don't cut) it shorter. The warbling discord will slowly decrease in frequency and go away when the tones are identical. Some leave a tad of the warbling (discordance), this can make for a pleasing sound, like the sound of most big bells.
    Good luck, Willie X
     
  16. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    I have successfully removed the broken stub by knocking it out with a 2mm dia length of tempered wire. I then attacked the screwed in brass nipple with a hammer and screwdriver applying torque to the screwdriver while tapping it with a small hammer. As I suspected it came loose quite easily. The chime rod is 3mm in diameter and the chime block has a tapered M6x1 thread. When I screwed a standard M6 bolt into the hole it tightened up perfectly in the tapered thread so I can make a new nipple to suit whatever size chime rod I eventually make. I would love to just buy a factory made replacement chime block but it isn't so easy when one lives in SA, not to mention that it would be rather expensive! At the moment I am experimenting with various wires to see if I can produce anything with a usable sound.
     
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  17. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    An interesting experiment as you work for the note and tone you want is to try different hardening and tempering temperatures. The tempering is best done with a kiln, but a good oven that can get to about 600 F on the clean cycle can also be considered.
     
  18. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    Drill rod stock would probably make a good sound. You may, or may not, be able to see that the rod/s always have a severely necked down area starting at the face of the attachment slug outward for about 5/8". This taper is made on a lathe, or with a file on older clocks.

    I understand your reasons for not ordering the part/s but surely you can look around and find some scrap clocks nearby. Use a magnet to see if your old rods are brass plated steel or beryllium copper.

    Willie X
     
  19. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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    No scrap clocks around here!!!! Everyone wants their old clocks repaired, you wouldn't believe what has been handed to me with a request to fix because it's some heirloom and has been promised to a son/daughter/grandson etc. Originally my idea was to get old clocks that no one wanted and fix them up for myself! Ha, Ha Ha!!! Now I just buy the odd (cheap) clock off the local auction when I find a cheap one!!!. Not often that I manage to find a cheap one, everyone thinks that a wind up clock is an antique and in SA ANTIQUE = VALUABLE! Even so I am starting to run out of space.
     
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  20. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    If you keep looking, I'm sure you will eventially run across a large store of scrap clocks, or scrap clock parts. Usually this happens a day or two after you spend a lot of time making up something from scratch. :) Willie X
     
  21. kologha

    kologha Registered User

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  22. TEACLOCKS

    TEACLOCKS Registered User
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    Are they screw in rods:???::???:??
    I need the same
    Lloyd
     
  23. Hudson

    Hudson Registered User
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    Hey Willie,
    your scientific approach to tuning rods appeals to me. I have searched for the KORG CA-40, but have found instead the KORG CA-50. Would that be an updated CA-40 and would it work to check the notes on my clock rods?
     
  24. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    According to this line in the first post:
    I assume so. Not all are though.
     

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