Urgos 9 tube set up

[Les Sanders]

I am working on a 9 tube URGOS on the left end of the pin barrel there is Collette with long pin it will slide inside of the pin barrel what is its function?

 

[shutterbug]

Does it move independently of the barrel?

 

[Dave Diel]

That piece causes the "pin barrel" to rotate with the shaft.

 

[Willie X]

I just finished restoring a similar one about a month ago and glad to be finished with it ...

The one I had used 1mm x 105" cables and had double clicks on all trains. I had to build a 6" temporary stand to let the cables run down to replace them. Lots of wear in the one I did, from bottom to top. The dual bevel gear pin drum drive is a bear to figure out. Be sure to hand clean and grease the three bevel gear faces.

Good luck, Willie X

 

[Les Sanders]

Does it move independently of the barrel?

No it turns with the barrel, my best guess is used for fine tuning chime striking?

 

[Peter John]

Isn’t the pin there to turn the pin barrel? The barrel is loose on the axle so it can slide back and forth when you select the different melodies

 

[Willie X]

Yes, the only thing that locates the pin barrel is the chime select detent.

On the one I just worked on, the detent was a small cylinder, on a horizontal shaft, to the right side of the pin drum.

Be careful with the dial. Luckily I found all the numerals as they were shedding!

Willie X

 

[Peter John]

It’s a terrible feeling when you’re on a house call and removing the dial to access the movement and half the numerals fall off onto the carpet. Peter

 

[Les Sanders]

So back at it today Glutton for punishment. I am going to start with removing 1. the chime drive mechaniism then 2. the pin barrel and hammer assembly. Since it won't chime and almost impossible to turn the barrel I am not 100% sure the chime drive is put together as intended!

 

[Les Sanders]

So back at it today Glutton for punishment. I am going to start with removing 1. the chime drive mechaniism then 2. the pin barrel and hammer assembly. Since it won't chime and almost impossible to turn the barrel I am not 100% sure the chime drive is put together as intended!

Here is my assembled Chime Drive.

 

[J. A. Olson]

The joys of adapting a rod chime movement to play on tubes and expecting it to run smoothly, much less accommodate maintenance repairs.

This site may be of interest:

The clock that killed Herschede

Sligh grandfather clock with nine tubular bells

www.abbeyclock.com

 

[Les Sanders]

Here is my assembled Chime Drive.

View attachment 732747 View attachment 732748

So I am close to being done, testing, One question remains 4 Hammer settings Top equals Silent, 2 equals . 3 equals 4. equals

 

[J. A. Olson]

Three different chime settings: Westminster, Whittington, St. Michael, then the Silent option.
The Whittington and St. Michael chimes use 8 tubes and Westminster uses just 4 tubes.

 

[Les Sanders]

So I am close to being done, testing, One question remains 4 Hammer settings Top equals Silent, 2 equals . 3 equals 4. equals

Three different chime settings: Westminster, Whittington, St. Michael, then the Silent option.
The Whittington and St. Michael chimes use 8 tubes and Westminster uses just 4 tubes.

I have the clock chiming just a bit of fine tuning on the hammer force!. For me it has been the clock from Hell!

 

[Danny Francis]

I just finished restoring a similar one about a month ago and glad to be finished with it ...

The one I had used 1mm x 105" cables and had double clicks on all trains. I had to build a 6" temporary stand to let the cables run down to replace them. Lots of wear in the one I did, from bottom to top. The dual bevel gear pin drum drive is a bear to figure out. Be sure to hand clean and grease the three bevel gear faces.

Good luck, Willie X

Is there any special grease you used and how much did you use on the beveled gears?

 

[Willie X]

Just a little, on faces of all 3 gears. It will spread itself out as the clock runs. I've used ENK mainspring grease, general purpose automotive cup grease, lithium grease, they all have worked well. The lithium grease will turn brownish and harden over time but I wouldn't take it off the list.

The grease you pick has to be thick enough to stay put. 'Red sticky' cup grease and 'spinning reel' grease would probably be good but I haven't tried those. Main things are that it won't dry out and using a small amount.

Willie X

 

[NEW65]

Peter, I couldn't agree more when doing a house call and removing a dial just to see most of the numerals fall off! It's my biggest dread especially if it's a clock that has been supplied by myself! It's no ones fault though but never looks good especially if the owner witnesses it. Fortunately I'm very good at gluing them back on with the loctite. Each numeral only needs a trace of loctite to fix them back in position and they are secure in minutes.
Too much loctite = ruined dial

 

[Les Sanders]

Just a little, on faces of all 3 gears. It will spread itself out as the clock runs. I've used ENK mainspring grease, general purpose automotive cup grease, lithium grease, they all have worked well. The lithium grease will turn brownish and harden over time but I wouldn't take it off the list.

The grease you pick has to be thick enough to stay put. 'Red sticky' cup grease and 'spinning reel' grease would probably be good but I haven't tried those. Main things are that it won't dry out and using a small amount.

Willie X

Willie, I have it chiming with out the hammers installed. the pin barrel turns as it should and strike rack is good. What I found was every time I put the pin barrel no action, I have a spare back up movement when I installed the main shaft with one beveled gear away we go. There must be a problem with other gear. seems to be fine now I greased the heck out of those beveled gears. I will hook the hammers up Monday let you know! Thanks to all!

 

[TEACLOCKS]

You said - "I have the clock chiming just a bit of fine tuning on the hammer force!. For me it has been the clock from Hell"

There are a lot worse modern clock movements than that one.

 

[Danny Francis]

Just a little, on faces of all 3 gears. It will spread itself out as the clock runs. I've used ENK mainspring grease, general purpose automotive cup grease, lithium grease, they all have worked well. The lithium grease will turn brownish and harden over time but I wouldn't take it off the list.

The grease you pick has to be thick enough to stay put. 'Red sticky' cup grease and 'spinning reel' grease would probably be good but I haven't tried those. Main things are that it won't dry out and using a small amount.

Willie X

Thanks Mr. Willie
Just bought this beautiful "monster of a movement" clock, and just wanted to make sure it has all the lubrication it needs to run on all 8 cylinders!!!

 

[Les Sanders]

Willie, I have it chiming with out the hammers installed. the pin barrel turns as it should and strike rack is good. What I found was every time I put the pin barrel no action, I have a spare back up movement when I installed the main shaft with one beveled gear away we go. There must be a problem with other gear. seems to be fine now I greased the heck out of those beveled gears. I will hook the hammers up Monday let you know! Thanks to all!

Well I hooked up the hammers and lined up the pin barrel, it will not drive the pin barrel. I loosened the pressure between the main bevel gear and the other 2 bevel gears, down goes the weight. I can only guess o clearance is the answer. What about lubeing the pins

 

[Willie X]

If the weight went down, you have other problems. Willie X

 

[Les Sanders]

If the weight went down, you have other problems. Willie X

Well no doubt some thing I have not figured out! I now have the beveled set at 0 clearance. I have a event to go to with the wife. Have a great weekend. BYW I noticed that beveled gear set does not run smooth jumps a bit, it has a tiny ammount of play where it goes through its plate.

 

[Les Sanders]

Well no doubt some thing I have not figured out! I now have the beveled set at 0 clearance. I have a event to go to with the wife. Have a great weekend. BYW I noticed that beveled gear set does not run smooth jumps a bit, it has a tiny ammount of play where it goes through its plate

Well no doubt some thing I have not figured out! I now have the beveled set at 0 clearance. I have a event to go to with the wife. Have a great weekend. BYW I noticed that beveled gear set does not run smooth jumps a bit, it has a tiny ammount of play where it goes through its plate.

Enough movement to cause binding?

 

[J. A. Olson]

Tube chime movements have to be tight as a fiddle to run, no slop or play whatsoever.
You'll have to prep up a big bushing to handle that shaft so it doesn't jump around.

 

[Danny Francis]

I just finished restoring a similar one about a month ago and glad to be finished with it ...

The one I had used 1mm x 105" cables and had double clicks on all trains. I had to build a 6" temporary stand to let the cables run down to replace them. Lots of wear in the one I did, from bottom to top. The dual bevel gear pin drum drive is a bear to figure out. Be sure to hand clean and grease the three bevel gear faces.

Good luck, Willie X

Mr. Willie,
The movement I am working on has 1mm x 105" cables on it as well , I was winding the cables onto the drum and they seem to overlap onto the cable already on the drum, is this normal? Of course this movement doesn't have any stops so I was wondering if the cables are correct are should I just not wind them all the way up until they overlap cause I have had cables get into the ratchet gear when that happens and you know the rest of the story!! Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[MARK A. BUTTERWORTH]

Mr. Willie,
The movement I am working on has 1mm x 105" cables on it as well , I was winding the cables onto the drum and they seem to overlap onto the cable already on the drum, is this normal? Of course this movement doesn't have any stops so I was wondering if the cables are correct are should I just not wind them all the way up until they overlap cause I have had cables get into the ratchet gear when that happens and you know the rest of the story!! Thanks for the help in advance.

The original Urgos cable was 0.8mm diameter. The 1.0 mm is used on the new Urgos made by Hermle. Butterworth Clocks carries the 0.8mm cable in stainless steel with ends to the proper length.

 

[Les Sanders]

The original Urgos cable was 0.8mm diameter. The 1.0 mm is used on the new Urgos made by Hermle. Butterworth Clocks carries the 0.8mm cable in stainless steel with ends to the proper length.

Back on the original post, I am wondering about the 3 gear bevel set, is the Butterworth T 1 butter bushing intended for the center gear to address the sloppy condition of the set?

 

[Danny Francis]

The original Urgos cable was 0.8mm diameter. The 1.0 mm is used on the new Urgos made by Hermle. Butterworth Clocks carries the 0.8mm cable in stainless steel with ends to the proper length.

I figured someone put the wrong cables on it in the past

 

[Danny Francis]

I figured someone put the wrong cables on it in the past

Mr. mark do you have the information on these cables so I can get some ordered.

 

[Les Sanders]

Mr. mark do you have the information on these cables so I can get some ordered.

The original post has turned into a discussion on cables for a URGOS. I am having a great deal of trouble with the entire

Tube chime movements have to be tight as a fiddle to run, no slop or play whatsoever.
You'll have to prep up a big bushing to handle that shaft so it doesn't jump around.

 

[Les Sanders]

J A Olson, I went thru the shaft with 1500 grit wet sandpaper thrn bushed the plate not super tight but have no more than 1 degree pf movement. Still not working without help [ushing the gears!

 

[MARK A. BUTTERWORTH]

The Urgos 9 tube movementis very unforgiving. It must be perfect or it will not chime properly.

 

[J. A. Olson]

Have you checked the bevel gears for wear from old oil buildup? I see in your photo there's quite a bit of old dry oil inside each gear tooth.
Too much old dry oil can chew up the gear teeth, leading to wear much more difficult since it would require resurfacing many teeth.

With all things considered, this is why movement replacement is considered the norm for 'repairing' these clocks.

 

[Les Sanders]

Have you checked the bevel gears for wear from old oil buildup? I see in your photo there's quite a bit of old dry oil inside each gear tooth.
Too much old dry oil can chew up the gear teeth, leading to wear much more difficult since it would require resurfacing many teeth.

With all things considered, this is why movement replacement is considered the norm for 'repairing' these clocks.

View attachment 735330

Good Morning, I have the chime drive unit in the cleaning machine. I noticed the plates have been bushed during its lifetime I will rebush those and rebush the chime side of the movement, and see if these steps resolve these issues!

 

[disciple_dan]

Each numeral only needs a trace of loctite to fix them back in position and they are secure in minutes.
Too much loctite = ruined dial

What Loctite are you using for that? 609 or something? The green stuff?

 

[disciple_dan]

The original post has turned into a discussion on cables for a URGOS. I am having a great deal of trouble with the entire

Sorry to butt in. I'm starting a post on the same movement "Urgos 03038 9 Tube" Please stop by and give me some advice. Danny

 

[Les Sanders]

Sorry to butt in. I'm starting a post on the same movement "Urgos 03038 9 Tube" Please stop by and give me some advice. Danny

You should get Steven Conovers Chime Clock it covers the 9 tube in detail

 

[disciple_dan]

I think I have that. I'll check. Thanks.

 

[Les Sanders]

Quick question on the bevel gear set at 0 clearance will not run so at .010 it runs OK so leave alone or?? some say leave dry others gease.

 

[shutterbug]

Oil only what turns 360°. Grease only what encounters great stress (chime hammer lifts)