You can watch the fly. It should start to spread out at about the 2 second point and stay out. It should go full out at the little breaks between the 8 note sets.
If that right drum bushing is worn the chimes will take much more power for two reasons. One, the bevel gears will be out of alignment. Two, the drum is pushed upward and this will raise the pins, making the hammer lifts more than what they should be, especially on the right side and this is the starting point for most of the chime sets.
These clocks can be a real PITA!
I found this thread and did the fan test.
That looks pretty good.
It seems to be slowing a bit at the end and doesn't seem to expand fully at the breaks between the sets. I've never used the butter bearings, don't like the idea of those humongous holes.
Yeah, Butter bearings would be a last resort.
I was hoping for a little faster spin on the train. I could have a snug bushing in there somewhere Would an end shake test be the way to find that?
Thanks for posting that test. That's the stuff that only practical experience will teach. Thanks, Wille X
Have a Happy Day, Danny
I usually just watch the fly and the hammers closely. If there is any slow down, make note, and back off on that hammer spring screw 1/4 turn. The book says not to do that but they probably had no idea about how a 14 arbor train was going to be workin in 40 years ...
As already mentioned, max out that run up to the first hammer lift. If the thing stumbles at the start, it's going to give you trouble.
Anything with the fly spreading nicely and a good even chime cadence will probably work out OK. On yours, I might back off a bit on those later hammer springs. The fly is closing slightly at about the half way point. I usually make my assessments on the 8 descending notes but check the others too.