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There were very few clocks made with rolling trundles, this is not one of them. In most cases like this one, either the trundles were not intended to rotate, or were originally allowed to rotate if they pleased but for whatever reason did not do so for years. One thing that I have noticed in clocks and other machinery as well, is that old worn parts that have run together for years with other old parts can seem to be rather happy to continue even when there is obvious wear.Does 10% or less wear on the trundles warrant replacement or any other repair if the clock still runs correctly?
Steve Conover’s book “Clock Repair Basics” describes a practical method that does not require any expensive special tools. There is an article in the how to section here that describes other methods, some which I cannot recommend. The lantern shrouds are typically closed with a stake or by knurling. Either will work OK. I cannot recommend solder, Loctite, or glue. You will need to match the trundle diameter pretty close. You will want a split stake to support the shroud when closing the holes. As for this clock, it will probably be OK for a while, but why pass up an opportunity to learn a new skill.Yeah, I haven't repaired any trundles yet. This is my personal clock right now but someone wants to purchase it. This one needs a lot of the trundles replaced. I've done quite a few clocks and have seen some wear but never have seen trundles that needed to be replaced. I've had one or two that had fallen out but that was an easy fix. I wonder why this one is so worn?
I think it might be time to learn a new task. I'll eventually need to replace some so I'll use my own clock to practice on.
Know anywhere to find good instruction? Thanks, Danny
This line got my attention, but I just flipped through every page of this book, and I don't see any thing about repairing trundles? CORRECTION. I do see the section about the split stake on page 5.Steve Conover’s book “Clock Repair Basics” describes a practical method that does not require any expensive special tools.
I'm Sorry, I was relying on memory. The article I had in mind is actually pages 10 to 15, Chapter 2 of, Clock Repair Skills, by Steve Conover. Includes 15 pictures and 3 illustrations. The method he describes is the method I use. (The book if worth having for this and other content.)This line got my attention, but I just flipped through every page of this book, and I don't see any thing about repairing trundles? CORRECTION. I do see the section about the split stake on page 5.
With this I agree. I’ve replace a few trundles trying to peen over the top & hated it. Bought a crows foot tool & still hated it. For whatever reason, my trundles don’t want to stay put until I get dangerously to the point of using my BF hammer.The only reason I recommend the quick fix is because I try to gather from your general opinion and estimate your knowledge base.
I don't argue the validity of 100% correct and original repair procedure. Instead I lay out the "out of the box" option.
The emphasis of my point was to inform you that trundles do not intentionally roll. But even ones built not intended to roll maybe loose.
I'm not such a purist anymore, so I'm no longer repulsed by lock-tight etc. Instead some days I see a bright sunny day outside my window and a garden I love needs tending. So I compromise a bits. Nothing worse in the whole world than missing out on them kinda days.
Simon, if you experienced difficulty retaining replacement trundles in lantern pinions without using Loctite, then I suspect there is a problem with your technique. First of all, "peening (to strike with a hammer or the peen of a hammer) over the top" will not work. Second, a crow's foot is not the correct tool for this. For the benefit of others who may be experiencing the same problem, lets take a look some things that can cause problems.With this I agree. I’ve replace a few trundles trying to peen over the top & hated it. Bought a crows foot tool & still hated it. For whatever reason, my trundles don’t want to stay put until I get dangerously to the point of using my BF hammer.
Then I tried Loctite. Beautiful. Easy. They ain’t going nowhere.
I don't even know what all that means but I think this can be put to good use with some fixtures as RC suggested. I was already thinking of a short flat piece of steel about 1"x 3/8" x 1/4" thick with a series of small holes drilled in it to receive the pivot. I would never try to press directly on the pivot, please. I could add another Ram as you say RC and simultaneously Screw them down on the pivot block and press the arbor out of the top trundle caption. I could screw it to a piece of plywood and set up another pivot block for the bottom for pressing it back on.I'm pretty sure that elaborate rig could be replaced and improved with the right furniture and a cheap one ton Chinese arbor press, or a good size bench style drill press.
RC has already mentioned what is needed.
DanHas anyone seen this tool or a similar one? The concept is good but I don't think it will do the job without damage to the pivot. It is intended to push the arbor thru the top caption until you can remove the rods for replacement. I don't see how you would use it to push it back on but you could find a way for that. It would not damage a good original peening job to remove the rods this way
Does anyone see an improvement to help with this concept? Thanks, Danny
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DanThanks, Jerry. I'll try to make a pair of those. I'm sure I will need them soon. I'm still not getting anywhere with the lathe. You say easily made. It's not so easy for someone like me. I have 0.00 percent experience working with metal. Just knowing what to use for making parts and tools is complicated for me. I don't have time to teach myself for having to spend all of my time on making a living. It's frustrating at times. Sorry for the wining.
Do you have any videos for sale? I didn't forget about the trumpet you made for me. It was perfect. Thanks, Danny