Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by P.Hageman, Jul 22, 2017.
Pallets seperated and silver solderd into place.
Nice idea on machining the pallets. I have only made a couple of sets of pallets for a crown wheel escapement, and mine were really poorly thought out, but I finally got them to work. Your approach looks far better to me. I machined the flats on the shaft then silver soldered on the flags...it was difficult to control the finished efforts and the flags tended to be difficult to keep in position while brazing them on the shaft.
I have the pendulem and verge arbor ready now and in place. I put some pressure on the contrate wheel and when I relased the pendulem, it started ticking Seems the vergewheel is good, no strange hickups while ticking. Still needs a lot of work and adjusting,but hey, seems this project will turn out right! I am not sure about the iron pendulem rod, perhaps that one needs to be made from brass? I have seen iron and brass ones, but casting a thin brass rod would not work until now
looking good, next the apron!
For that I need to make some engraving tools first Nutjob
Looks fab, congratulations!
Have't had much time lately, but work is still in progress albeit a bit slower. I made a new contrate wheel because the old one was just not good enough. The teeth were a fraction too thick. The clock is now running for test now. I will not be working on it for a few weeks since I am enjoying the Greek Islands now! Here a little peek on the movement runnin with a new state of the art pendulem
Doesnt that look great! Love the, uh, pendulum, its pure class
Have a great holiday!
That is music to the ear. Everybody needs a verge in their life, though there is a dispute in our house on just how many you need.
I love crown-wheels, specially the vertically placed ones Unfortunately, those clocks are hard to get and I've been able to purchase just two old ones (plus several repros): A Frisian stoelklok and a Japanese shaku-dokei.
Enjoy the Greek islands and keep us posted of your progress with the bracket movement. You've almost finished it!
I've just been told one of my clocks used to be verge, perhaps I should get you to do that!
Do the Vice Grips come standard? or are they a limited time offer?
Kidding aside, I think your doing a great job!!
The only vertical crownwheels I have are the alarm wheels. Are the vertical ones verge and foliot?
Unfortunately, only my repro clocks are verge and foliot !.
The stoelklok (say, mid 19th) has a vertical verge having an horizontal rod/wire attached at its top. The pendulum is hanging from the case, not from the movement. The verge upper rod's tip is inserted into a slot at pendulum's mid-height, like in an English fusee pendulum. That way, the horizontal movement from the verge is transfomed into a vertical one. That's the way many older foliot and balance clocks were adapted to pendulum in 17th and 18th centuries. Of course, Frisian stoelklokken were not adapted, but were designed that way and continued in production (as repros) until fairly recently.
The Japanese shaku-dokei (end of 19th) has a simpler verge and balance with spiral hairspring affair.
@ BLKBEARD, no the vicegrips were a one time offer and they only come with the purchase of the book "how to become a clock addict" Since I already am addicted for many years, I got it for free this time
I am still not totaly happy with the amplitude of the pendulem. I will try to make some calculations on what would be the best angle between the verge teeth and the pallet on the moment of impact. The wheeltrain is running very smooth now and there's more then enough power on the vergewheel. I cannot bring in the pallets any deeper into the vergewheel, so perhaps the shape of the teethe of the vergewheel need to be altered? Now the teeth have a vertical side perhaps they need to be cut inwards a bit? (hope you still can follow me) I als want to play arround with the angle of the pallets. Advise is much appriciated.
Looking fantastic. Great to see it running.
I think the crown wheel teeth should be undercut, since the escapement is a recoil type.
I tried to make some free hand drawings and calculations. It has been a very long time ago since I learned this at school but I think I worked it out (as far as my minor knowlegde takes me)
I assume: How smaller the angle between the pallets how larger the surface friction between the pallet and the crownwheel gets. The force of the crownwheel stayes the same in all situations since this is only related to the wheeltrain.
With a large pallet angle the resulting force is more downwards, with a small pallet angle the resulting force get more horizontal and in line with the force on the crownwheel. So one would say a small angle is better, but...........
The downward force on the pallets gets bigger as the ampitude increases (the weigth of the pendulem is pulling down more when the angle between vertical and the pendulem angle is getting bigger) So when the downward force on the pallets is increasing so is the surface friction at the same time .
So with small angle between the pallets a high surface friction at impact point but a relative lower surface friction upon the point were the crownwheel thooth is released. With a large angle between the pallets its the other way arround.
So after all this I think it is a matter of finding the right point, the middle of the road. Whats very important is a mirror shine pallet surface and a small pendulem weight. But thats what we already knew
@Graham: since the pendulem swing is not that large now, the tip of the pallet will only get in contact with the top of the thooth, so no undercut is needed. Even with recoil the pallet will not get in a vertical position (with pallet angle at 75 - 90 degrees)
Its very interesting those reconversions
I have almost completed the reconversion, only need to engrave the apron, but it seems this thread has lost all its pictures?
Yes that's a huge shame, and the loss of emoticons made you call me a nutjob!
Hopefully all fixed soon, when can we see the apron?
By the way, found this repair mark (amongst others) op the back end of one of the springbarrels. Seems mister Yarndley cleaned the clock on september 30 1811
Always fun to find things like that, I don't think the paper labels they use today will last so well
I find it sad my pictures are still not showing up. I can't even find anymore in "my attachments"
We must be patient, they said they hope to do them all at once
What is a shaku-dokei, Aitor?
As I go to the Netherlands often, perhaps one day I could see your work.
You are welcome
Which city or town are you in?
I did send you a pm
shaku dokei is an ancient japanese pillar clock,verry interesting , decorative and collectable,one ofb my dreams,too.Google for pics.
Sorry for the late reply. I was locked out of my account until just now.
Burkhard, I bet my friend Kazuo Murakami-san will enlighten me as well. Do you collect Schwarzwalder uhren?
It's a peculiar type of 19th century Japanese pillar clock (shaku=yardstick and dokei=clock). The time is marked by a pointer attached to the leaden weight along a ruler. Picture is complicated because traditional Japanese hours were of variable length. Common shaku dokei are timepieces, but there were also striking ones in which a spring-driven striking train doubled as the weight powering the time train.
Here's a link to the thread I made on my clock: å°ºæ™‚è¨ˆ Shaku Dokei
Oops looks like I've been to long offline lately...
Do you have the edition of 'karakuri zui' by Murakami san? I posted a review at the MB some time ago: REVIEW: An Eighteenth Century Japanese Manual on clocks and automata
BTW Who DOESN'T collect BF clocks?
Just a small update, clock is running strong for weeks now and good on time. No, I did not have time to engrave the apron yet For some reason the sound you hear is a bit different in reality.
you can't beat the sound of a verge can you? Though my bracket clock is stopped at the moment as my partner is ill and it is the noisiest clock in the house. (Any striking 30 hours have been silenced too)
It's a bit like what they used to do when these things were actually made, put straw on the cobbles when somebody was ill to make the traffic quieter.