Tiffany Tiffany never wind

[jkfabulos]

Recently acquired this clock. Need a little help restoring it.
I need one coil and an original shunt resistor. If you have either or both please contact me via private message giving your email address and I will respond.
The clock was worked on by a DIY who clearly did not understand what is required to fix it. Used lots of acid core solder and in general made a mess of it.
I have a few questions about the interrupter.
There was a small wire loop that seems to have been a spacer on the end near the interrupter plate. Was this somehow part of the wiring possibly to supply a ground?
On the other end of the interrupter was a small flat wire ribbon that originally appears to have wrapped similar to a hair spring that was soldered to the lead wire. Was this the connection to the shunt resistor?
What is the surface metal on the contact surface of the interrupter? I know the pin that sides on it is silver.
Can the interrupter be cleaned in an ultrasonic or is just contact cleaner best.

 

[eskmill]

'Can't help on the shunt resistor...at best I could supply some 32 gauge iron-constantine cotton covered resistance wire of the type used for shunt resistors in old battery clocks.

The interruptor arbor and bushing as shown in your 5th photo should, no must have an insulating sleeve and insulating washers at both ends of the oscillating arbor. I recall using some very small solid wire insulation that fit snug inside the brass busing so as to allow the interrupter arbor to oscillate freely.

The dial side of the arbor should have had a copper spiral connecting wire soldered to the end of the arbor with the long end of the spiral connected to the shunt resistor plate as a connection.

It took great care to solder the copper wire spiral to the end of the interrupter arbor without melting the plastic insulating sleeve inside the bushing. (actually, the copper spiral may have been a split collet such as used to attach a watch hairspring to the staff and should not have been soldered)

I don't recall the type of contact metal used on the interrupter, possibly silver or other contact material.

The snapshot below is the wiring diagram I made for the never-published slide program that Roy and Jay asked me to create using their notes, but that's another story.

 

[jkfabulos]

I have located a donor clock that will hopefully have all the parts I need.
Les that same basic wiring diagram is in the Swetsky manual which provides some help however does not show what the actual production parts look like.
If you have never had one of these apart before photos of what the actual parts are would be most helpful but I understand the costs to reproduce them in a repair guide preclude their inclusion. I enjoy the adventures encountered in trying to save these various electro-mechanical clocks.
When it is completed I will add photos.

 

[Ingulphus]

I have a disassembled movement, but at the moment my kitchen's being torn down to the studs, and my workshop is directly under it, heavily sathed in plastic tarps. If I can get to it in the next week or two, I'll find it and post photos.

 

[jkfabulos]

I have a disassembled movement, but at the moment my kitchen's being torn down to the studs, and my workshop is directly under it, heavily sathed in plastic tarps. If I can get to it in the next week or two, I'll find it and post photos.

As posted I have found a donor clock but just in case it does not have the required parts you offer is most appreciated.
No rush just whenever you get back into your shop.