This Sessions is in dreadful condition

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by heifetz17, Mar 30, 2020.

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  1. heifetz17

    heifetz17 Registered User
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    I picked up this beautiful tambour in non running condition and I estimate it to be 1920s. I was quite shocked when I tore it down!

    Do you guys recommend replacing the strike side click? it feels nice and tight and clicks nicely but is visibly worn on the edge as you can see.

    Does the time side wheel look salvageable? I’m hopeful that I can clean the solder off, polish it up, and install a new click. But I don’t know about the teeth.

    C52AC7F7-5C62-4BDD-8A97-69FD89F0A26A.jpeg B8C42258-37F9-4252-8C16-92B858C0FF15.jpeg 45E829C9-1A91-4BF4-8745-EEC6B26B9CF6.jpeg A22192B0-37C5-4813-BB6D-E90B2DC188B0.jpeg 1431897E-28AE-48A9-8153-11E1DFB068FB.jpeg 89FDECBF-03FA-472A-AF34-0C36E9411A56.jpeg AB3207AB-AA51-4857-82AE-E1C3FAC1FEC3.jpeg 2C8BE90D-689A-400F-932A-37D7B1232162.jpeg D1B594E4-3025-42B7-BB39-DBE491D878D0.jpeg EFDD36F9-CB54-4458-8B83-61F6DA990A2F.jpeg
     
  2. Vernon

    Vernon Registered User
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    I've had success by heating with a torch to melt then using strong compressed air to blow the solder off. Then you may follow up with a wire brush as needed. I would replace both clicks of course.
     
  3. wow

    wow Registered User
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    The strike side click may be ok if you peen the rivet and tighten it up. You can file the end of the click while on the wheel so it fits snugly in the click wheel. Just unhook the end of the spring and turn the click to file it. The other one looks ok if you get that pile of solder off, clean it up, and replace the click and click spring. Teeth look ok. Be careful not to heat it too much. Just hot enough for the solder to melt. Like Vernon suggested, use compressed air followed by a brass brush. I have some for my Dremel that work well for that.
     
  4. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

    Feb 9, 2008
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    That can all be cleaned up. It just takes a lot of time. If you can, make new clicks and replace the click springs with steel ones. I've never see a click soldered to the wheel, if that's what I'm seeing?

    Your clock is the last (3rd) series, possibly made in the 1930s.

    Willie X
     
  5. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    You will need a shouldered rivet to fit the click, and they are not easy to find. You may have to farm that job out to someone with a lathe who can make one for you.
     
  6. heifetz17

    heifetz17 Registered User
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    Thanks all.

    I do know that Sessions started transitioning to electric movements in the 1930's, which is why I guessed it was a bit earlier than that.

    SB, I have several clicks with shouldered rivets from Timesavers, so I believe I have the correct ones that I need, although I'll have to look to verify.
     
  7. bangster

    bangster Moderator
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    Wouldn't a solder sucker work too?
     
  8. JimmyOz

    JimmyOz Registered User

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    I am not too sure about the teeth, they look like they are badly worn on one side to me, given the amount of work involved maybe source a replacement wheel or old movement and just swap that wheel over.
     
  9. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Ok, Bang. What is a solder sucker? Actually sounds like a good idea. Have you invented one?
     
  10. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Like this, Will. There are several models though. It uses suction to remove solder, and since it's not metal the solder doesn't stick to it.
     
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  11. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Well, I thought Bangs was pulling our leg. There really is such a thing. Wonder if it works.
     
  12. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    No doubt about it. They are made of silicone rubber, been around for about 45 years but probably not used much anymore due to nearly all electronic products being disposable. Solder Wick can be helpful too, still around but expensive. Willie X
     
  13. Carl Alelyunas

    Carl Alelyunas Registered User

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    I remove blobs of solder on brass plates (sob!) by heating with a torch until it melts and wiping quickly with a cotton rag. The air gun method can spatter hot molten solder all over everything. I have scars to prove it. Solder suckers only remove small areas.
     
  14. heifetz17

    heifetz17 Registered User
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    This was as good as I could get it, even heating it up with a torch for several minutes. This is certainly some good solder!

    the new clicks went on quite well, but teeth look questionable to me as well. I’ll try this and if all else fails just source a new wheel.

    F61840B1-97E1-4D21-A43A-483B9F0A9E4A.jpeg
     
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  15. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    What's going on with the wheel up there where that blob of solder is? Are those pointy teeth made of solder?

    Those clicks may work OK if you wind it very carefully :)

    The click's tip looks blunt but should have a sharp point. The locking face of the click needs to have a lot more angle too. I don't have a good close-up of a properly fitted Sessions click but someone else might.

    Willie X
     
  16. fbicknel

    fbicknel Registered User

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    Hyar's two. The one with the spring is the strike side, the one without the go side. My movement looks similar to yours.

    20200404_173852.jpg

    Willie, my guess is that's solder sticking to the brass. @heifetz, if I were taking this to the next step, I'd get the spring separated from the wheel and use Carl's cotton rag technique. You should be able to wipe all that off and see what's going on underneath.
     
  17. JimmyOz

    JimmyOz Registered User

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    With the amount of heat the brass has had from the old repair and the new one, condition of the teeth and the worn ratchet wheel, I would not be putting this back into a clock, I like my fingers just the way they are now.
     
  18. heifetz17

    heifetz17 Registered User
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    I agree that the wheels don’t seem to be worth saving. I have the proper soldering equipment but this solder is giving me a lot of trouble, and the wheel has seen extensive heat.

    Willie I see what you’re saying about the clicks. I’m curious why these particular clicks are so highly recommended on here if they don’t seem to fit properly on any of the movements I’ve worked on so far?

    At this point I’ll try to source a couple wheels with good ratchets/clicks. Does this movement have a model number or something I can cross reference when looking for wheels?
     
  19. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    #19 Willie X, Apr 4, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2020
    I think people like them mainly because they are thick and oversize. You can cut them down to fit many clocks. Also, the spring wire is easy to attach to the clunky looking lug.

    On the down side the steel click wire was really rotten on the early ones, this may be better now. The spring wire on your click appears to be too thick for it's its own good though. :)

    Starting over with a better assembly should be easy enough. This was a high volume movement.

    Good luck, Willie X
     
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  20. wow

    wow Registered User
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    I may have an assembly like that. I need detailed measurements and I will check if you wish.
     
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  21. S_Owsley

    S_Owsley Registered User
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    I've learned a lot by reading this thread. Thanks, guys!
     
  22. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    The clicks need to be filed so the connecting faces are flat against the flat side of the teeth. Flat against flat is the safest lock. It might be hard silver solder you're trying to remove. That takes a lot of heat to melt.
     
  23. heifetz17

    heifetz17 Registered User
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    I'll get some detailed measurements tonight and pm you. Thank you.

    SB, that makes perfect sense. Perhaps once I get these wheels replaced I'll practice with a few more clicks on these old wheels and post some photos to see how I'm coming along with filing them down to fit!
     

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