Tall case clock strikes 2 minutes after the hour

[Dave421]

Our ca 1830 tall case clock strikes about 2 minutes after the hour. I have not removed the minute hand to look yet. It is held on via a small pin that goes through the shaft almost like a tiny cotter pin. I know in our newer clock there is a squared off bushing in the minute hand that can be adjusted, and the minute hand is secured with a round brass nut. This one has the pin instead. How are these older minute hands adjusted so the clock strikes right at the top of the hou? Thanks very much.

 

[Steven Thornberry]

Our ca 1830 tall case clock strikes about 2 minutes after the hour. I have not removed the minute hand to look yet. It is held on via a small pin that goes through the shaft almost like a tiny cotter pin. I know in our newer clock there is a squared off bushing in the minute hand that can be adjusted, and the minute hand is secured with a round brass nut. This one has the pin instead. How are these older minute hands adjusted so the clock strikes right at the top of the hou? Thanks very much.

View attachment 722605

I have moved this thread to the Clock Repair forum.

 

[mrpowers]

Our ca 1830 tall case clock strikes about 2 minutes after the hour. I have not removed the minute hand to look yet. It is held on via a small pin that goes through the shaft almost like a tiny cotter pin. I know in our newer clock there is a squared off bushing in the minute hand that can be adjusted, and the minute hand is secured with a round brass nut. This one has the pin instead. How are these older minute hands adjusted so the clock strikes right at the top of the hou? Thanks very much.

View attachment 722605

I have found most of the time if the hand is not on a brass insert the minute hand is slightly bent from people moving it forward to the correct time. If you look closely I bet you will find the same. Bend the entire hand back 2 minutes worth of space.

If it has the brass insert, it's probably slipped for the same reason as stated above and can be carefully moved back.

 

[JeffG]

I have found most of the time if the hand is not on a brass insert the minute hand is slightly bent from people moving it forward to the correct time.

Or the square hole at the end of the hand has wallowed out for the same reason. Or some of both.
-Jeff

 

[novicetimekeeper]

A clock of that age would originally have hands that just had the square cut in the right place, there would be no adjustment on the minute, though the hour might just be friction fit. Sometimes they get bent, sometimes they get put on inside out which can make a difference.

 

[Room 335]

Most longcase clocks of this era trigger the strike from a wheel behind the dial which runs counter-clockwise and rotates once an hour. A pin lifts a lever which puts the strike into warning and then releases to let the strike train run. One tooth on this wheel will probably be around 2 minutes (slightly less?) on the strike release so adjusting this could solve the problem. To move the wheel by one tooth you would need to remove the pin, slide it forward and then re-position. Will almost certainly require removing the dial though...
I have attached a picture to show the general arrangement,
Richard

 

[Dick Feldman]

The hand probably got out of sequence when someone forced the hand when it was tight.
Sometimes, the best cure is to re bend the lever on the inside of the movement to make it fall , strike on the hour.
Another solution may be to bend the minute hand. That may be dangerous as the hand may break.
The solution is probably not simple and maybe a qualified clock repair person is the best solution.
JMHO,
Dick

 

[TEACLOCKS]

The pin in RED will lift the lever "RED" & drop at at that time.
You will have the adjust that lever to drop when you want it too.
Good Luck

 

[Dave421]

The pin in RED will lift the lever "RED" & drop at at that time.
You will have the adjust that lever to drop when you want it too.
Good Luck

View attachment 722694

I see that on my clock. The pin and lever. How would I go about adjusting it exactly?

 

[Dave421]

Most longcase clocks of this era trigger the strike from a wheel behind the dial which runs counter-clockwise and rotates once an hour. A pin lifts a lever which puts the strike into warning and then releases to let the strike train run. One tooth on this wheel will probably be around 2 minutes (slightly less?) on the strike release so adjusting this could solve the problem. To move the wheel by one tooth you would need to remove the pin, slide it forward and then re-position. Will almost certainly require removing the dial though...
I have attached a picture to show the general arrangement,
Richard

View attachment 722630

Richard, I have the dial removed as it is being restored. I see the wheel with the pin as well as the lever. I don’t quite understand what you mean by removing pin and sliding forward. Are you saying to removed the small cotter type pin that holds the wheel in place on the shaft and turn the wheel counterclockwise and reinstall the pin?

 

[Willie X]

That lever looks rather sturdy. I would try remeshing the gear one tooth as already mentioned. One tooth would be about 2 minutes and you won't be likely to break anything.

Willie X

 

[Dave421]

That lever looks rather sturdy. I would try remeshing the gear one tooth as already mentioned. One tooth would be about 2 minutes and you won't be likely to break anything.

Willie X

I’m not sure what you mean by enmeshing one tooth. Do you mean to loosen the wheel by pulling the pin through the shaft and turning the wheel and reinstalling it?

 

[Vernon]

Do you mean to loosen the wheel by pulling the pin through the shaft and turning the wheel and reinstalling it?

Take the weights off first.

 

[Dave421]

Take the weights off first.

And then remove that wheel and put it back one tooth counterclockwise?

 

[Willie X]

"Remesh". Yes, removing the pin and possibly other things, will be necessary.

"Exactly" can be difficult. 'About' or 'close to' is usually doable.

Willie X

 

[TQ60]

Place the hand back on and turn to where you see the action to start.

Also pay attention to the direction the gear turns.

Remove the pin that keeps the gear in place.

To avoid mistakes, use a sharpie and mark across where the gears interface.

Lift gear and rotate it one tooth ahead and put it back, confirm with your mark.

Replace the locking in and then rotate hand to see where the action is now.

 

[Dave421]

Place the hand back on and turn to where you see the action to start.

Also pay attention to the direction the gear turns.

Remove the pin that keeps the gear in place.

To avoid mistakes, use a sharpie and mark across where the gears interface.

Lift gear and rotate it one tooth ahead and put it back, confirm with your mark.

Replace the locking in and then rotate hand to see where the action is now.

Thanks!

 

[Dave421]

Here is a photo of my clock. I see the gear and the pin that I remove. But the wheel has two points where it meshes with others. There is the smaller part on the shaft below the pin and the wider diameter I can’t see where that wider part meshes as it is behind the other parts.

 

[Vernon]

Yep, you want to pull that pin and the pin that holds the minute hand on and make your adjustments. You will want to put a washer on before you put the pin back on like in Teaclocks post #8 photo. This will keep the meshing together. One problem could occur is the rack tail could get off. It needs to land in the middle of each step as well as depart from step 12 and land on the first step without falling or getting trapped between the two.

Vernon

 

[Dave421]

What is the large part of the wheel I’d be removing meshed to?