Suggestions on how to go about bushing this

Rockin Ronnie

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I would like to bush the time side main wheel of this 1840s circa Forestville weight driven movement but there is another hole next to it and if I use a bushing (Bergeon) that has an OD of 6.50mm it seems I will cut into (or come very close) the adjacent hole and it might not hold. Ideas?

I have no idea why the hole is there.
Ron

bushing.jpg RS bushing_1.jpg
 

Thomas Sanguigni

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Lay the bushing over the hole to see how much will interfere with the extra hole. If it is close, I would not worry. You could also just fill the extra hole with a blank. The 6.5mm od sounds a little big. Can you choose a smaller bushing and just broach a little more?
 

R. Croswell

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That extra hole looks egg shaped almost as if the pivot once ran in that hole. I can't help wonder if someone just drilled a new pivot hole close to the old one. The frame is also a little bulged out at that point. Does that main wheel arbor appear to be perpendicular to the plate? How is the meshing with the next pinion? Before installing a bushing I would verify that the hole you are going to bush is the correct hole and directly over the hole in the other plate.

Rockin, do you have a lathe? If so you have a few more options.

RC
 

Rockin Ronnie

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Thanks, RC. The gears mesh just fine in the hole that it is in and not at all in the hole adjacent to it. It looks like someone tried something that did not work. Yes, I have a Taig lathe. Options with the lathe?
 

howtorepairpendulumclocks

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Does the hole need bushing? If the depthing (mesh) is ok, it doesnt need doing? You can temporarily plug that other hole with a piece of brass rod filed to a taper, this will stop your reamer breaking through or better still, drill out a much smaller Outside diameter bush so it has less wall thickness. The wall thickness of pre-made bushes is massively generous. Hope this helps. Check depthing first.
 

R. Croswell

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Thanks, RC. The gears mesh just fine in the hole that it is in and not at all in the hole adjacent to it. It looks like someone tried something that did not work. Yes, I have a Taig lathe. Options with the lathe?
You can turn a plug for the extra hole, and from a piece of brass you can make a bushing with a smaller OD that would not cut into the extra hole. If you have a small boring bar you can turn the ID to fit the pivot as well. If maintaining original appearance is a priority, you could turn a bushing with a small flange and if the solder police don't find out, a bit of solder flow under the flange will ensure that everything stays in place even if you do ream the plate into the extra hole.

RC
 
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howtorepairpendulumclocks

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If bushing, which will remove material from the host plate noticably improves depthing then I agree. If it doesn't, we have to agree to disagree :=). that's ok, range of views is good I hope.
 

Kevin W.

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I would plug the extra hole. And make a custom bushing on my lathe. Perhaps broach by hand.
 

Royce

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I believe the extra hole was for previously using or trying to use a Rathbun bushing. Seems like I can see discoloration of the brass on the smaller photo that looks like that.
 
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Rockin Ronnie

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I installed a new bushing and it went better than I thought. I used the smallest OD bushing that I could and I think I am far enough away from the other hole that it won't cause me grief.

The depthing is good and that side runs freely. I am not sure that I will even fill the hole now that the bushing is in. I am not concerned about aesthetics, just functionality. It's the backplate, so, no one will see the hole with the dial off. Still puzzled why it is there.

Thanks for the ideas everyone, I did not want to rush into this one

RS Bushing_2.jpg
 
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