Standard Electric master wiring re-do

Discussion in 'Electric Horology' started by hickorydickorydoc, Apr 4, 2020.

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. It's Coming
    Just Two More Days
  1. hickorydickorydoc

    hickorydickorydoc Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    May 25, 2007
    74
    0
    6
    Maine
    Country Flag:
    Hello,
    I have a Standard Electric master that I am trying to restore. I've been through the movement, and it will run nicely on a manual wind of the mainspring. But - electricity is a little out of my comfort zone and I don't want to fry anything, except bacon! Unfortunately, most of the wires to the interior metal components in this clock had been snipped. The movement was completely separated from the case, and even the ammeter and pilot dials have had their wires detached. The back of the case and the setting and testing buttons at the bottom appear to be intact. I've got a wiring diagram, but just want to be sure how the movement is properly hooked up.

    A. My escape arbor has an insulated arm in front of the escape wheel with two contacts. There is also a similar arm behind the escape wheel with one contact. As the clock runs, the front arm makes contact at 0 and 30 seconds, and then the rear contact touches at about the 3 or 4 second mark. Can someone confirm my suspicion that the front arm causes the rewind coil to activate twice a minute, and the rear one advances the slave circuits once a minute? Or is it supposed to go the other way around?
    B. I'm guessing that the big wires from the resistor (if that's what it is?) to the left of the movement go directly to the terminals of the rewind coil? And the smaller wires coming out of the case back near the mounting frame are ground wires that attach to the cast frame? (see photo)
    C. There is a single wire coming through the back of the case near the upper right corner of the movement - I don't know what it goes to. Another ground? It comes from one of the lower contact terminals on the relay in the upper right of the case. The other lower contact terminal of the relay goes to the ammeter.
    D. I'm thinking of trying to run this clock with a wall transformer that puts out 24V DC and 200 mA current. Is this too much? I may add on my two slave clocks sometime if feeling brave.

    Thanks very much for any advice or encouragement!
    Mark

    top of movement.JPG escape contacts close-up.JPG wires on left side as found.JPG
     
  2. Vernon

    Vernon Registered User
    NAWCC Member Donor

    Dec 9, 2006
    642
    60
    28
    Gardener/Arborist
    Country Flag:
    Region Flag:
    I had one in some years ago when I was just getting into repair and needed help too. As my notes show, the one wire of the DC. comes in to the fuse or resistor and is looped around the screw and continues to the coil. The other wire from the DC. is attached to the frame. Off the other side of the resistor are two wires, one goes to the remaining coil wire and the other went to a bar to the upper left of the movement and attached to a screw on a bar. From a second screw on that same bar, a wire came down to attach to the EW. The clock ran on 9 volts 500 mA. I understand that this can vary. I have a power supply that where different voltages can be selected so this was helpful.
    Good luck!
     
  3. hickorydickorydoc

    hickorydickorydoc Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    May 25, 2007
    74
    0
    6
    Maine
    Country Flag:
    Thank you for the information. I am particularly interested in being sure I have the contacts on the escape arbor correctly hooked up. Is your master clock wired for slave clocks? My clock has a two-contact arm in front of the escape wheel and a single contact arm behind the wheel. Which one activates the re-wind coil and which one advances the slave circuit?
     
  4. Vernon

    Vernon Registered User
    NAWCC Member Donor

    Dec 9, 2006
    642
    60
    28
    Gardener/Arborist
    Country Flag:
    Region Flag:
    No, my clock did not run slaves. It did have 2 small clocks within the case known as pilot clocks but they we not wired and the owner was just interested in getting the master working. As I remember, that contact arm in the back just rides on the ew arbor to provide the flow of power. Based on your first photo and my description above, the wire that comes from the left down to the anchor is the one used to run the clock. The other wire that leaves the anchor to the right was not used on my clock and was left loose. The dark screw on the upper right of the movement mount was used for the other wire from the power supply. I started out with 6 volts but I found that 9 volts would activate the coil solidly and reliably. I really don't have much knowledge beyond with these electric clocks. I was lucky to have a friend help me out.
     
  5. mxfrank

    mxfrank Registered User

    Oct 27, 2011
    136
    3
    18
    I'm attaching some photos of a similar clock that I've been working on for some time. If I understand which contacts you're talking about, those aren't the ones that are needed for the rewind function. I'll try to get some photos tomorrow. If a clock has pilots, then it's certain that it functioned as a master...each pilot clock would have controlled a string of slaves.

    IMG_5099.JPG IMG_5100.JPG IMG_5101.JPG IMG_5102.JPG IMG_5103.JPG IMG_5105.JPG IMG_5404.JPG
     
  6. mxfrank

    mxfrank Registered User

    Oct 27, 2011
    136
    3
    18
    Vernon likes this.
  7. hickorydickorydoc

    hickorydickorydoc Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    May 25, 2007
    74
    0
    6
    Maine
    Country Flag:
    Thank you so much for the info and for the great photos - the one of the movement mounting frame is most helpful. My master clock does not have a program unit, only an ammeter and three pilot dials for slave circuits. These things can get complicated!
     
  8. mxfrank

    mxfrank Registered User

    Oct 27, 2011
    136
    3
    18
    I pulled the face and took a few photos for you. This is as-found, so I can't promise that everything is exactly right, but it probably is. The rewind trigger is definitely the contact on the back of the escape wheel. the one on the face side operates one of the slave relays. I have additional contacts on the right side of the clock for the bell tape I've been using a 24V wall wart for testing, 200ma should be fine. I also included a photo of the top contact bars showing where I connected the alligator clips from the power supply.

    IMG_5434.JPG IMG_5435.JPG IMG_5436.JPG IMG_5437.JPG IMG_5438.JPG IMG_5439.JPG IMG_5440.JPG IMG_5441.JPG IMG_5442.JPG IMG_5443.JPG IMG_5444.JPG IMG_5445.JPG
     
  9. hickorydickorydoc

    hickorydickorydoc Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    May 25, 2007
    74
    0
    6
    Maine
    Country Flag:
    Oh, these photos are a fantastic help! Thanks so much. I am motivated to make some connections and we'll see how it goes.
    I appreciate your advice very much! I anticipate having plenty of unscheduled time for the next month or two, anyway, depending on how this viral infection curve progresses. I'll let you know when I get this going..
     

Share This Page