Sligh Grandfather quit chiming

[rjdj2000]

Have a Sligh grandfather clock that all of a sudden just stopped chiming. I looked awhile back and found a reference chart that had this information for the movement: Sligh # 500-0029, MFG #: 2061-853BS/114 which I am taking this to be a Hermle movement with a 114 cm pendulum, with weights at 7.7 L, 9.9 C, 9.9 R, Triple rod Chime type, Cable power and it plays Westminster, Whittington, St. Michales.

I have switched the chime selector to any of them and nothing. If I go to silent then go back, it will play so I know it still functions. It has played just fine since I acquired the clock last year and just suddenly quit chiming. Is there anything in particular I should look for? It has the night time shut off also but that has been turned off since I got it as the clock is in another room and doesn't disturb anyone at night.

 

[Willie X]

Usually they stop chiming because of wear in the chime train. C3F&B, C4F&B to be more specific. Wear at the hand shaft can also stop the chimes.

To check: remove the weights, hands and face, then wiggle the two brass disc that are on extended pivots to the right of the hand shaft. Also wiggle the handshaft up and down. If anything wiggles, the afore mentioned wear is your problem and your clock movement will need to be overhauled or replaced.

No wiggle ... you may be able to remove the movement and free the train up by pegging out some of the black stuff on the pivots and pinion teeth, then carefully oiling it. This is not a fix but MAY move you down the road another year or so. Willie X

 

[NEW65]

Yes I agree with Willie. Those are the arbors front and back where you need to check for play. Of course, there may be more sloppy pivots too that may require bushing. When I overhaul any weight driven movement I always do C3 & C4 front and back regardless whether they widdle or not widdle. It's just a routine that I always follow.
However if you have no experience of repairing it would probably be best just fit a new movement. Something you may be able to manage yourself.
Good luck with it.

 

[rjdj2000]

Thanks for the info and where to look. I watched it get to a 1/4 hr spot to chime and it acts like the fan didn't complete and the wheel under it wasn't in position to start again (I take it has the warning pin on it?) If I ever so gently move the fan, it will go into where it probably should be and once it hits the 1/4 hr, it will chime like it should. I guess I'll be trying to figure out how to get this out of the case and see what it is doing. Then will report back with pictures/video if I can get one.

 

[Peter John]

I think that movement was made specifically for Sligh after Howard Miller bought Keinenger. It is no longer available. It has extra heavy plates and jewels in the upper trains. A really good movement, but a bear to overhaul. I think it can be replaced with the 1161-853. Peter

 

[rjdj2000]

So I took this apart, making sure not to wreck something in doing so. LOL Got it on the bench and looked it over and from what I can see there is hardly any slop in the pivots on it at all, some look like they were bushed at some point. Pictures below. While clamped to the bench I put the weights on the chime/strike trains and moved the hand to see what it was doing. The one picture where there is the oval, these levers (sorry for not knowing what they are called) sometimes wouldn't move up enough to allow the strike to function. I did lightly oil the pivots where I could get to them as it looked dry. I did slowly work the hands around afterwards to see how it functioned and it started to work on the 1/4 hours like it should. After that I removed the weights and tried to move the cable drums to see if there was any slop along the trains in the pivots and I saw very minimal movement in anything if not at all. Almost appears that it might have been worked on (hard to tell exactly) as I said before it looked like it might have had bushings put in it. Let me know your thoughts on it but it is now back together and running. It has chimed like it should for the past hour so I will see how it does tonight.

 

[Dick Feldman]

Movement date code of "Q" means it was manufactured in 2004.
Normal lifespan on a Hermle movement is 20-25 years.
Failure will be from low power due to friction due to wear.
Good luck,
Dick

 

[NEW65]

Think you said that the chimes start when the silencing device was used? I keep wondering whether front C4 has some wear?
Also I see this movement has the auto night silence. Have you checked the chimes out with that set in disabled position (24 hour chimes on position I mean, small lever pushed down)

 

[NEW65]

I just overhauled an hermle 1161 weight driven on cables code S. It was the trickiest overhaul I've ever done. Fitting some of the new bushings in the time train was very difficult!

 

[rjdj2000]

Think you said that the chimes start when the silencing device was used? I keep wondering whether front C4 has some wear?
Also I see this movement has the auto night silence. Have you checked the chimes out with that set in disabled position (24 hour chimes on position I mean, small lever pushed down)

Yes, the lever is pushed down. From what I was seeing when turning the hands the 2 levers (in the picture that is circled) were not raising out of the cam that is under them which was not allowing it to chime. So as I do not have enough knowledge to overhaul this movement at this time, what would be a direct replacement for it? I saw one on Butterworth's site but not sure if it is or not, 1161-853 CSK.

 

[NEW65]

If you're careful you can very slightly bend the small tab upwards on the lever below the long lever that runs across the movement. This will then ensure enough lift out of the chime stop cam.
If you attemp this try and ensure that you don't twist the short lever.

 

[rjdj2000]

If you're careful you can very slightly bend the small tab upwards on the lever below the long lever that runs across the movement. This will then ensure enough lift out of the chime stop cam.
If you attemp this try and ensure that you don't twist the short lever.

New,

I think I am just going to leave it as it is for now and think about just replacing the movement in it until I am comfortable enough to tear it apart and go through it properly. Hate to try to tweak something and really mess it up at this point as I've only done a couple cuckoo movements and a 400 day movement. This one has way more in it to keep aligned properly in order for it to work correctly. LOL Just need to see what is a direct replacement for it right now.

 

[rjdj2000]

Deleted....

 

[Dick Feldman]

Since you are in the USA, Butterworth's is a good source of information about replacement movements
They are usually most helpful if given a phone call.
1-563-263-6759.
Have a piece of paper and pencil handy when you talk to them because the information will flow fast.
Also have all of the ID information from the existing movement handy.
Best of luck,
Dick

 

[rjdj2000]

Since you are in the USA, Butterworth's is a good source of information about replacement movements
They are usually most helpful if given a phone call.
1-563-263-6759.
Have a piece of paper and pencil handy when you talk to them because the information will flow fast.
Also have all of the ID information from the existing movement handy.
Best of luck,
Dick

Well I've done and ordered a new movement for this @ Butterworth's. Was messing with it this past weekend and it got to the point that it would get to about 5 min to the hour and it would continuously play the 1/4, 1/2 & 3/4 hr chimes and not stop. So I removed that weight for now so it would stay running and I could at least enjoy it telling time and keep the moon dial going. Even though they didn't have one with ANSO on it in stock, I got one without it for now as I never used it anyways. Now is there a good book that would be helpful in reading up on for when I feel comfortable to tear into the old Sligh movement to rebuild it? Trying to keep it original as possible and with rebuilding the movement at some point I can put it back into the clock. Then I'll use the new movement I'm getting and make a new case for it or find me a decent case it would work in.

 

[Dick Feldman]

I do not know of any books specifically geared at Hermle movements other than:
The Hermle Service Manual, by Roy A Hovey. This book will be mostly specifications.
Most of the following books can be borrowed from your local library, or had from eBay, or Amazon.
Some are better than others and you should be able to glean the best from each
A few I would suggest are:
This Old Clock by David S Goodman. Class notes from a class Dr. Goodman taught.
Clock Repair Part Time Hours-Full Time Pay, John R Pierson
Clock Repairing as a Hobby, Harold C. Kelly
A Clock Repairer's Handbook, Laurie Penman
Practical Clock Repairing, Donald de Carle, FBHI
Conover has a series of books that are helpful
David LaBounty of Mitchell NE, has a series of articles, videos, etc. Dave is well versed and a quality repair person.

About Time - David LaBounty

There are more. Can anyone else offer suggestions?

Best Regards,
Dick

 

[rjdj2000]

I do not know of any books specifically geared at Hermle movements other than:
The Hermle Service Manual, by Roy A Hovey. This book will be mostly specifications.
Most of the following books can be borrowed from your local library, or had from eBay, or Amazon.
Some are better than others and you should be able to glean the best from each
A few I would suggest are:
This Old Clock by David S Goodman. Class notes from a class Dr. Goodman taught.
Clock Repair Part Time Hours-Full Time Pay, John R Pierson
Clock Repairing as a Hobby, Harold C. Kelly
A Clock Repairer's Handbook, Laurie Penman
Practical Clock Repairing, Donald de Carle, FBHI
Conover has a series of books that are helpful
David LaBounty of Mitchell NE, has a series of articles, videos, etc. Dave is well versed and a quality repair person.

About Time - David LaBounty

There are more. Can anyone else offer suggestions?

Best Regards,
Dick

Thank you Dick for the list. Will start trying to track them down and do some studying on them lol. I've tackled a couple of Regula cuckoo movements and a couple of the Kundo 400 day ones but haven't got into these bigger ones. Will get into them here at some point though.

Jeff

 

[rjdj2000]

While I wait for the new movement to arrive, I have seen a post somewhere on here about oiling a new movement and I believe Willie X was in on the discussion in that post. Awhile back I bought some clock oil for oiling movements, etc. The only thing it says on the container is 'Clock 859 Synthetic Clock Oil' Now in the discussion I saw about Hermle movements was to use only Esynthia (not sure that is spelled correctly) synthetic clock oil on new movements or you had to remove all the oil/grease on the movement to use what you wanted on them and not to mix them. I did not buy the oil I have from say Butterworth's/Timesavers but from someone on eBay. Yeah I know I probably shouldn't have but was excited to get started in doing a cuckoo movement so probably jumped the gun on getting oil and not 100% sure of what is actually in the bottle but the seller on there had quite the selection of repair parts etc. so that is why I went with it.

So should I just get the recommended oil from a clock parts place so that I can oil this movement (if needed) when it arrives or do I just use what i currently have?

 

[shutterbug]

The Hermles are oiled at the factory with a type of synthetic oil that has issues mixing with some other types. I've never had an issue using any synthetic oil, and am now mostly using Mobile 1 - their lightest one.

 

[Willie X]

All oils (in an 'in use' clock) will completely go away at about the 5 year mark. So the 'mixing' thing is not much to consider.

I remember all the controversy surrounding different oils in various engines. After many years it turned out to be a non issue.

Willie X

 

[NEW65]

I have always just used a good quality clock oil and never had any issues.

 

[rjdj2000]

Thanks everyone for the input. It is coming from Butterworth's and will be here this Tuesday. Hopefully, with all I've seen on here lately about getting a 'bad' movement, this one wont give me any troubles and I can get it installed without trouble. I know I will probably have to transfer over the gears for the moon dial as I don't think the new one will come with it but that is simple enough. Then I can go back to enjoying the sounds of the chimes again and hopefully before the 5 year mark I can get the original one rebuilt and put it back in. Then will have to think of a design and such to build a new case and/or find me a good used case to put the other movement into.

 

[shutterbug]

Be sure that gear on the center shaft is in the right position. Also they tend to resist the dial going on, so you'll probably have to wiggle things when you get that far.

 

[rjdj2000]

Be sure that gear on the center shaft is in the right position. Also they tend to resist the dial going on, so you'll probably have to wiggle things when you get that far.

Sounds good. Will take pictures to reference from that is for sure. Also may take calipers to measure for placement so once it is all in, I don't have to take apart again to move something. Probably should just take old movement out w/ seat board and then remove the old movement. Then once new movement is on seat board, I can clamp to bench and fit dial and everything as a test fit before putting into the case.

 

[rjdj2000]

Well new movement showed up today. Just got done installing it and adjusted the chime rods so they hit a) the correct rod and b) actually hit the rod. The strike side didn't need any adjustment and hit like it was supposed to. shutterbug I just removed the whole cannon from the old and new, swapped them over and put it back together. Was way easier than trying to find a small enough allen wrench to get the one gear off. The dial slid right into position with no troubles. I know, I know, I should of let this run outside the case probably for a few days to see how it was going to behave but I don't have the room to do it and there is 2 pesky felines running around that would just love to play with the bright and shiny swinging thing!

So for now it is all in and running. It was close on time before so hopefully I won't have to adjust the rating nut again. So far it has been in beat, actually like the auto beat on these. Can mess with it by just how the pendulum swings so if it is off, just stop and redo except go opposite way. Myself, I hold it and move it back and forth at a somewhat even distance until I get the tick-tock sounding about right and then just let go. If it was good, then it should stay and run quite well. LOL

As to the run-on of the chimes in the old movement, after a little looking, it looks like a warning pin gone AWOL on the chime side, no wonder it would start about 5 of the hour and just run on. Nothing stopping the wheel or at least until it got to top of hour or weight was on floor of case. Will have to figure that all out once I get around to rebuilding it.

 

[shutterbug]

I'm glad you got it going! Now you have a movement to practice on too!

 

[rjdj2000]

I'm glad you got it going! Now you have a movement to practice on too!

Yeah I know. Only thing is, the wheel with the warning pin on chime side, the pin is gone. Is that something that could be replaced easily or should I just end up looking for another replacement? Will have to get a book or two to read up on these types of movements before I even attempt to repair it as I know it probably needs bushings. Found a guy on ebay that rebuilds them, he had some already rebuilt like the one I bought and put in. Almost sent this one off to have him do it but he is in Michigan if I remember right, so really didn't want to lose the movement due to shipping. So someday I'll tackle it but for now it is in the box that the new one came in.

 

[shutterbug]

Pins are easy to replace, but you need the wheel out to do it. Sounds like a fun project for you to get your feet wet with, but it's not a great candidate for a first time repair. Try to find a scrapped time/strike to practice on first. If it has springs, be sure you learn how to let them down first!

 

[rjdj2000]

Pins are easy to replace, but you need the wheel out to do it. Sounds like a fun project for you to get your feet wet with, but it's not a great candidate for a first time repair. Try to find a scrapped time/strike to practice on first. If it has springs, be sure you learn how to let them down first!

Yeah it is a bit more with 3 trains in it. Do have a korean one that needs a new click spring (there is another thread on it that I have) but I need to make a proper spring winder before I even attempt to work on it. Sometimes it will chime the proper hours, other times it won't. So not really sure what happened. So I've only would the time side for now but I see yesterday that it had quit so it must be at the end of the 31 day run. Don't remember when I wound it up last. Someday I'll be better at it even though I've done 2 400 day movements and a couple of cuckoo movements but those are not that hard (some say they won't touch the 400 day ones). Still have a Schatz 8 day cuckoo with the KM50 movement that I need to dig into and get so it will strike/cuckoo as it should and not lock up at the start. See threads in here on them also and I see they can be a little bit to get into sequence as things have to be just right on them. LOL

 

[Dick Feldman]

Do have a korean one that needs a new click spring (there is another thread on it that I have) but I need to make a proper spring winder before I even attempt to work on it

The Asian made clock you have is a bad choice for novices as well as seasoned clock repairers.
Those were built with over sized springs, undersized frames, poor quality materials and very poor design.
All of that translates to a danger for the repair person, the owner and especially the person winding the clock.
Use thick leather gloves to wind that clock if you insist on operating it.
If the same standards were applied to those clocks that were to other imported items (cars, baby seats, vacuum cleaners, ladders, etc.) those would be banned for sale in the USA.
I do not even recommend donating those to charity as you will subject someone to the same hazards.
That is how I feel,
Dick

 

[rjdj2000]

The Asian made clock you have is a bad choice for novices as well as seasoned clock repairers.
Those were built with over sized springs, undersized frames, poor quality materials and very poor design.
All of that translates to a danger for the repair person, the owner and especially the person winding the clock.
Use thick leather gloves to wind that clock if you insist on operating it.
If the same standards were applied to those clocks that were to other imported items (cars, baby seats, vacuum cleaners, ladders, etc.) those would be banned for sale in the USA.
I do not even recommend donating those to charity as you will subject someone to the same hazards.
That is how I feel,
Dick

Dick, I know how that goes. LOL They sure are not 100% safe but it has more sentimental value to me than anything (was my dads). I tried to find a replacement movement for it but it did not work out. It was something in how it mounted that wouldn't work right and it wasn't tall enough (couldn't put the hands on it) Yes it would be nice to replace the movement with something newer but for now it hangs on the wall and if I feel like winding it up I take it real slow as the strike side already broke the click spring and rapped my fingers once.

Jeff

 

[shutterbug]

If your Korean clock has a 30 or 31 day run, I'd recommend only winding it 8 turns from fully stopped, and then wind it 7 turns every week. Much safer that way I'm somewhat assuming that the great wheel turns once per day.

 

[rjdj2000]

Well so far it has ran great and chimed when it was supposed to but twice now it has stopped at just before 11:15. I did notice the hour hand very close to the little second hand. The first time I just shut the chimes off and ran the minute hand around to the correct time and restarted the clock. This morning I did push the second hand in just a bit but not so much that it would rub on the dial.

If the hour hand was up against the second hand, would that be enough to stop it? It ran fine since I installed it with no issues what so ever then to stop in the same place twice. I guess I will see when I get home tonight if it is still running. LOL I hope so as I'd hate to have to tear everything back out again.

 

[rjdj2000]

If your Korean clock has a 30 or 31 day run, I'd recommend only winding it 8 turns from fully stopped, and then wind it 7 turns every week. Much safer that way I'm somewhat assuming that the great wheel turns once per day.

shutterbug, it is a 31 day, or at least that is what is on the dial plate. I hear you about not winding it fully, it is just hanging on the wall for now. Need to bring the movement with me to work sometime and use my CMM to get exact measurements of the winding arbors, hand stem and overall height of the movement. Then try to find something better to put in it and give the case a new lease on life. LOL

 

[shutterbug]

Yes, the hands touching would be enough to stop the clock. Good find!
Sometimes those movement are very similar to kitchen clock movements. Success in your hunt!

 

[rjdj2000]

Yes, the hands touching would be enough to stop the clock. Good find!
Sometimes those movement are very similar to kitchen clock movements. Success in your hunt!

I forgot I can look in on it as I have a couple cameras to keep track of the pups during the day and it is still tick-tocking away. So hopefully that is all it was. Will look into them shutterbug and see what I can find. If I had to replace the dial, I could do that as well if needed. BTW I read your signature and does that apply to more than two? I've started out with about 4, 3 came from my dad and 1 came from my great uncle. I am now up to somewhere around 20 mechanical clocks. With the oldest one being the Gustav Becker 2wt Vienna that I bought in Oct. of last year.

 

[shutterbug]

Yes, it multiplies exponentially

 

[rjdj2000]

Well a little update here, installed new movement last Tues. (1/24) and it had stopped at around 11:15 to which I ran the hands around and restarted the clock. Ran till Friday at about the same time and it quit again. I adjusted the second hand in a little as it looked like it touched the hour hand. It has ran since then just fine. Wound all the weights up Sunday and when I came home today from work, I see that it had again stopped at 11:07. The hands are not near each other so that isn't the culprit this time but I noticed where the center weight was hanging. If my memory serves me right, as I didn't take picture last time, it is about in the same position when it stopped the first time. This time I have wrote the date/time down along with a measurement from the top of the weight to the nearest part of the case, approx. 7-5/8" down. Now if this is going to do it again, I'd say about Thursday around 11 o'clock this should probably stop again. I'll be surprised if it don't. As I said all I did was remove the hour cannon from old movement and aligned it onto the new movement for the moon dial. The dial changes @ about 3 am or so, so that isn't the culprit either. Anyone have any ideas? Outside of me contacting MARK A. BUTTERWORTH, which I tagged now and will probably call as I don't want to do anything outside of sending it back as it is out of my realm of repairs as I said before. Shouldn't need to do repairs to a brand new movement either but who knows. I'll probably let it go to see a) if it stops on Thursday and b) if I start it back up and let it get to Sunday (winding day) to see if it makes it there. Then to wind it again and see if it stops again next Monday. It is just puzzling to say the least.

 

[Willie X]

First, wiggle the plastic cable guide on the time drum. It should be loose and flop around quite easily. If it's tight do this:

While you hold winding tension on the crank (enough to take the pressure off the click) press the tail of the click inward and carefully let the weight all the way down. This should clear a fowled cable and now your cable guide should be loose. Note, you may have to use some downward force on the weight, if it sticks and won't go down on it own, this will take a helper.

Still no run, put the new cannon back on and leave off the moon drive gear.

Still no run, pull off the second hand and double check that the minute and hour hands are completely free to wiggle to and fro.

Still no run, put a mark where it can't be easily seen and send it back.

Yes, a new movement should work right out of the box, with few exceptions.

Doing the above steps are expected though and could possibly save you some embarrassment.

Willie X

 

[rjdj2000]

First, wiggle the plastic cable guide on the time drum. It should be loose and flop around quite easily. If it's tight do this:

While you hold winding tension on the crank (enough to take the pressure off the click) press the tail of the click inward and carefully let the weight all the way down. This should clear a fowled cable and now your cable guide should be loose. Note, you may have to use some downward force on the weight, if it sticks and won't go down on it own, this will take a helper.

Still no run, put the new cannon back on and leave off the moon drive gear.

Still no run, pull off the second hand and double check that the minute and hour hands are completely free to wiggle to and fro.

Still no run, put a mark where it can't be easily seen and send it back.

Yes, a new movement should work right out of the box, with few exceptions.

Doing the above steps are expected though and could possibly save you some embarrassment.

Willie X

Thank you for the information Willie. I just tried to move the plastic guide and got about 1/32-1/16 of movement back and forth and it didn't take much effort to move it. (Used a finger up through the seat board to check it) Checked the chime guide and it has the same amount of movement. As I said before, it runs & chimes fine, I wound it up Sunday and it made it to 11:07 and stopped. I re-checked hands and all was clear from each other and they are not hard to turn either way. The moon dial advances somewhere around 3 am, the gears have plenty of play and not binding so I doubt that is stopping it at about the same time but a couple days apart. I'll be reaching out to Mark or Andy @ Butterworth's to see what the next step will be on it.

 

[Willie X]

If the weight is stopping at the same point, check the stop works. That's about all of the easy stuff. Willie X

 

[rjdj2000]

If the weight is stopping at the same point, check the stop works. That's about all of the easy stuff. Willie X

I will have to see if it stops again as it only did it twice before I wound it up on Sunday. I'll make not of where weight is if it does then proceed to let it run until Sunday again to wind it back up. Then see if it stops again around the 7-1/2" drop mark. If it does, then there has to be something afoul in there. I could just wind it up again but I know it stopped twice so I would like to figure out where the weight is at that point as well so I have more information for Butterworth's when I call them on it. More than likely I'll have to send this one back for another one. Hate to do it but don't like a new movement that don't work either when in all aspects it should function fine. If it does go back, will swap the gear for the moon dial onto the new movement and not swap the whole cannon over. I still may try that by putting the original one back on and see if it quits then. But that changed at like 3 am and not 11:07-10 so it is puzzling.

 

[Willie X]

Definitely go back to the new hour canon assembly, as already mentioned. There are many versions of the motion works gearing on Hermle clocks, so it's not a good idea to change any parts in that gear train.

Normally, you would simply change the moon gear. Or, in your case, leave the moon gear off for a time, as a test.

Willie X

 

[rjdj2000]

Definitely go back to the new hour canon assembly, as already mentioned. There are many versions of the motion works gearing on Hermle clocks, so it's not a good idea to change any parts in that gear train.

Normally, you would simply change the moon gear. Or, in your case, leave the moon gear off for a time, as a test.

Willie X

Ok. I will do that Willie. I'll swap it back to what came with the movement and leave the moon dial gear off for now. Will probably just leave the diall off it for now as well because if I have to tear it out, the dial will be one thing I won't have to mess with. Also, your prior message said to check the stop works, can you explain that as with my limited, but growing, knowledge of mechanical movements; I am unsure of what you mean. I tried searching on here and found a terminology thread but nothing was mentioned in there. Also, thank you for posts on this as it is quite helpful.

 

[shutterbug]

Those weights are very close together. Any chance they are interfering with one another?

 

[Willie X]

The stop works are the two odd looking cogs where the winding arbor comes out of the movement. One is actually on the winding square and the other one free wheels on a post. There is a long finger and combination of gear teeth and ledge/s on the two cogs. It's designed to make a hard stop at both the upper limit and the lower limit of the weight.

If the cogs are misplaced (improperly installed) this will stop the weight travel and stop your clock abruptly.

Hermle uses weak (stamped) cogs in their stop works and these can be accidently overrun by someone with a heavy hand.

In your case, the cogs could be improperly installed.

If the weights stop abruptly at the same height (at the top), your stop works are probably OK.

With the dial off, you can study how this works when you wind it up. It works just the same at the bottom but in the opposite direction.

Willie X

 

[rjdj2000]

Those weights are very close together. Any chance they are interfering with one another?

Yes they are but no, there is about a 1/4 in. gap between them.

 

[rjdj2000]

The stop works are the two odd looking cogs where the winding arbor comes out of the movement. One is actually on the winding square and the other one free wheels on a post. There is a long finger and combination of gear teeth and ledge/s on the two cogs. It's designed to make a hard stop at both the upper limit and the lower limit of the weight.

If the cogs are misplaced (improperly installed) this will stop the weight travel and stop your clock abruptly.

Hermle uses weak (stamped) cogs in their stop works and these can be accidently overrun by someone with a heavy hand.

In your case, the cogs could be improperly installed.

If the weights stop abruptly at the same height (at the top), your stop works are probably OK.

With the dial off, you can study how this works when you wind it up. It works just the same at the bottom but in the opposite direction.

Willie X

Ahh. Ok, so you are talking these 'star' wheels mounted on the front of the movement. As to winding this movement, I usually go at an even pace and pause ever so often on the middle one so it doesn't stop the clock. As I get to the top of where they need to be, I slow down as to not 'jam' the pulleys into the movement. I will take a look at it when I remove things tonight. Just for clarification, it does run, I wound it Sunday and it was stopped at around 11:07 on Monday. So hopefully it is something simple to figure out. Will try to take a look at the cable winding as well and if anything, let it all the way down and wind it back up.

 

[Willie X]

The pulleys normally stop about 3" shy of the movement. Willie X

 

[rjdj2000]

Well a little update, I had continued the clock the way it is to see if it would stop again and just like clockwork (no pun intended) it did stop again Thursday at like 11:21AM it quit. So I took measurement of where the weight was for reference. Restarted it and it ran until like 11:31 PM and quit again. I took another measurement and restarted it this morning. Checked the camera that I have on it and it has stopped again at what looks to be 11:35 AM.

So when I get home tonight I am taking the dial off, removing the old hour cannon and putting on the original, letting the weight down completely and re-winding it but will look to see if cable isn't wrapped properly on the drum first. Then once all that is done, will restart it with nothing on it and see how long it will run. If it quits by Sunday, it will be going back to Butterworth's as I am beyond frustrated with it. I'll try to take some pictures to post here just as it sits now to see if anyone can possibly see something on it that I should check.