Silver AGN (applied gold numerals) dials for American dress watches

[Jerry Treiman]

I just bought a Waltham movement with this lovely silver AGN (applied gold numeral) dial and wondered if anyone else has looked into who supplied American watch companies with AGN dials?


This dial is marked on the back for Stern Freres, a famous Geneva dial maker who bailed out Patek-Philippe when they were in financial straights and still makes many Patek dials. It seems that the American companies bought most of their silver AGN dials from Swiss companies, with a few exceptions.

My Waltham watches appear to have Swiss dials from Fluckiger et Fils (ZJ or Zelim Jacot) and Stern Freres, and at least one American AGN dial made by the Solidarity Watch Case Co.

I have Illinois dials from Stern Freres and L.MEROZ-HURST

I believe Hamilton sourced AGN dials from Theo Schwalm & Co. (Schwalm was previously with Hamilton's dial department).

Many of my silver dials are not marked with a maker on the back, including South Bend and Hampden AGN dials.

 

[Clint Geller]

Jerry, were these AGN dials standard for certain Waltham movements, or did they cost extra? Couldn't one buy a Premier Maximus with an applied gold numeral dial as well?

 

[Jerry Treiman]

It looks like Waltham started offering these dials for an extra charge around 1921.

 

[novicetimekeeper]

I just bought a Waltham movement with this lovely silver AGN (applied gold numeral) dial and wondered if anyone else has looked into who supplied American watch companies with AGN dials?
View attachment 765488

This dial is marked on the back for Stern Freres, a famous Geneva dial maker who bailed out Patek-Philippe when they were in financial straights and still makes many Patek dials.

The Stern family have owned the company since the thirties. Bit more than bailing out.

 

[Jerry Treiman]

This Colonial-A 14-size has a dial by Fluckiger (ZJ) -


This 10-size Colonial-A has a dial that may be from Stern Freres -

 

[Clint Geller]

It looks like Waltham started offering these dials for an extra charge around 1921.
View attachment 765633

Wow, ten bucks extra. Not cheap!

 

[Ethan Lipsig]

Clint Geller asjjaJerry, were these AGN dials standard for certain Waltham movements, or did they cost extra? Couldn't one buy a Premier Maximus with an applied gold numeral dial as well?

Clint Geller asked whether "one [could] buy a Premier Maximus with an applied gold numeral dial." One could, as evidenced by my Premier Maximus, which was the last one ever made as far as I know.

 

[Clint Geller]

Clint Geller asked whether "one [could] buy a Premier Maximus with an applied gold numeral dial." One could, as evidenced by my Premier Maximus, which was the last one ever made as far as I know.

View attachment 765739

Gorgeous watch.