Should I still dismantle and clean a never used Hermle?

Addable13

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I got a hardly used (if at all) Hermle 351–050 movement off eBay, it looks like it never ran much for a 1984 production year.
It’s just sitting on my bench running, can’t decide if I should take the movement apart and clean it before I stick it in a custom case I plan on building.
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Willie X

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Hermles are notorious for looking good when they are actually bad. :)

Let down the springs and check those two (chime side) disc that run outside the front plate. If they are loose, it will need bushing work. Also, see if the barrels are loose/wobbly.

Willie X
 

bruce linde

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it looks good so that guarantees it has no bent or worn pivots or pivot holes? that no one used wd40 on the mainsprings (or that they're not worn or cracked)? that they probably stumbled upon some oil that doesn't dry up (or wick out, or collect particulate matter) after 38 years, as opposed to the normal 5-10?

the title of your thread says 'never used'. the question says 'hardly used'. the truth is that you don't know, and won't know exactly what's between the plates until you open it up. you'll have to do that someday... why not start with a known quantity by doing the right thing now, instead of delaying the inevitable?
 

MuensterMann

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Many movements are removed and replaced with a new movement. That old movement is usually put into the box that the new movement just came in. The old movement in the box is stored - for parts, if needed. Then years later the box is discovered by someone else and assumes it is a brand new movement, New-in-Box, never used, etc. and sells it as such. Be on the lookout!!!!
 
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R. Croswell

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I got a hardly used (if at all) Hermle 351–050 movement off eBay, it looks like it never ran much for a 1984 production year.
It’s just sitting on my bench running, can’t decide if I should take the movement apart and clean it before I stick it in a custom case I plan on building.
I agree with others that it is hard to tell just how "hardly used" it really is. You say you plan to build a case for this movement, so I'll throughout another possible course of action. Give it a good visual inspection, then if there is NO black "pivot poop" around ANY of the pivot holes, and the barrels pass inspection as Willie suggested, give it a bit of fresh oil and leave it setup and running on your test rack while you make the case. If it is still running perfectly when the case is finished, go ahead and install it. At some point you may want to service it properly, or just let it run until it dies and decide to rebuild it or replace it.

RC
 

Addable13

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While I am stripping the movement down, the barrel’s on spring driven Hermle’s can be usually removed without splitting the plates but this is not the case. The spring shaft can’t slide out of the barrel because of the front plate. My next issue, I don’t have any tools for removing springs out their barrels.
 

R. Croswell

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While I am stripping the movement down, the barrel’s on spring driven Hermle’s can be usually removed without splitting the plates but this is not the case. The spring shaft can’t slide out of the barrel because of the front plate. My next issue, I don’t have any tools for removing springs out their barrels.
Sometimes the winding arbors get stuck pretty tight and need "some encouragement". If you don't have the tools to do the job right, all the more reason to leave it along if it is running until you do have the tools to do the job.

RC
 
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Addable13

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Sometimes the winding arbors get stuck pretty tight and need "some encouragement". If you don't have the tools to do the job right, all the more reason to leave it along if it is running until you do have the tools to do the job.

RC
I have tools for KMW bushings and open face mainsprings, eventually I will need to get the tools for extracting main springs out of barrels.
 

Willie X

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The barrels are easily removable on your clock. Maybe your were talking about the springs:???: Willie X
 

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