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Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by fbicknel, May 9, 2020.
Anyone know what the deal is with all the 2s?
I missed one!
Clearly, a piece of this assembly is missing.
If i turn the little knob to adjust the beat, it just backs out of the long-ish brass part.
I propose a short brass tube over the right end of the screw, then a washer, then a piece of brass wire bent through the hole in the shaft s-shaped. (There's gotta be a better term for that operation. S-posting? Meh.)
Any ideas on how this should look?
Here's the whole thing for reference:
There should be a matching brass knob on the other end. When you turn one knob the steel pin in the middle moves one way. Turn the other and it moves the other way. The pin should fit through a slot in the pendulum and allow for beat compensation when the verge is of a fixed design that does not adjust to put the clock in beat.
Interesting. Thank you.
I think that's a slightly different design, but I like the balanced look of the knob on the other side.
I am now considering a shorter bushing on each side of the same length and a matching knob on the right side with a pin through it to lock it in place.
A little more challenging, but it will definitely look better.
Gotta figure out how to replicate the knurling: I don't have a knurling tool for my lathe. Something will present itself.
The 2’s are probably a batch number. Once certain parts within a batch were finished, they were marked to keep them together.
Do you happen to have a picture of the clock this movement is from? Thanks!
Turn the knob to its final finish. Remove it from the lathe; you may or may not want to part it off now that is up to you.
Now find your coarsest file. Lay the part on the bench with the edge to be knurled so it will roll. Lay the file on the part, and applying considerable force, roll it across the bench. Do some practice pieces; different files will change the look. You don’t need to roll it far.
Once the clock is closer to complete, I'll nip off the excess from the tapered pin. Learned long ago not to do that at all if possible, and only do it at the final assembly if required.
Anyway, I think it came out kinda nice.
I just read Al's file trick for knurling. I'll give that a go.
Um, sorta like this:
I assume this part
But how does it go back in without destroying the porcelain dial?
Needs a bit of polish, I know.
I find it interesting how many different pieces this clock came to me in. Some of the pieces are missing, like the other end of the beat adjustment above. This one was just floating around inside the clock.
Oh I forgot. Yesterday's work completed:
Note the contrived weight. I tried a lighter hammer and it didn't have enough energy to keep it running.
I'm experimenting with weights...
Today (not shown), I had enough gut unwound from the clock to add the pulley. This hammer had enough weight even with the pulley installed.
So I'm close, I guess.
The dial grommet should have a groove in it like you would have for an E -Clip or retaining ring. In this case the spring tension is from a bend out of the flat bearing against the rear of the dial. The opening in your clip will be close to the inner diameter of the groove. They are often square in shape.
Yup so it does. Thanks, Al. I'll have to see if I can find a replacement.
You can fabricate a clip out of thin brass sheet. It just needs to fit snugly in the Grommet's retention groove.
Here are some examples from work I did to replace missing grommets for a Seth Thomas "Wales" Porcelain Dial
Thanks Bruce, I was hoping someone would post a picture.
A weighty situation.
Meanwhile, I veneered that piece of plywood they had on the back. It's now undergoing a shellac finish process.
The case has been re-glued (a corner of it was loose).
The hands are polished, but I lack a bluing tray. Though I have been collecting brass chips from the lathe for months. I think I have enough shavings to try bluing the hands.
Haven't found a chunk of copper or brass large enough to use as a tray yet, however.
Meanwhile, the hands are in denatured alcohol to prevent them from rusting.
gotta get a new front glass; this one came with none
haven't decided what to do about one of the sidelights. It's broken, but it's a single horizontal crack and it's the original glass. I may leave it alone. For now, there's painters tape over it just to protect it from further harm.
need a U-clip for the grommet. Brass sheet much more expensive than new clip from TS... internal struggle.
New final needed for bottom. I turned one for a previous regulator-style clock that was missing one. Might repeat the process.
Just so long as you get a secure fit you won't go wrong either way. The Brass Sheet with Dykem (or similar) lay out dye may be handy in the future, but you can always order an assortment if or when needed. Timesavers will be more than happy to throw some at you.
Edit: Derelict movement plates can be a good source of thicker brass stock too,
Finally got the newly-veneered back in place and the case has been glued back together. (There was a corner joint flopping around.)
New glass expected to arrive today.
Oh, and a new (old) beat scale propped up at the bottom.
Bluing the hands is the next task of reasonable proportion.
Just realized there were no "before" pictures in this thread...
Looks to be a real beauty when you're all done.
Good luck and have fun with the rest of the project. It only seems like it's taking a long time while you're going through it.
Once you're done, it will have all been worth your time and effort. Actually, it looks like you're moving right along (as is 2020).
Have you been able to identify the manufacturer?
Nice job! Looks like Lumiere approves of the addition to his castle.
My bluing project for the hands came out acceptable, but slightly imperfect. I had a little trouble getting them to blue evenly. Probably my problem is that I had to settle for a stainless steel tray (fashioned from a junked grill that I recently tore apart for salvage). I put all the brass shavings I had in the tray -- after cleaning them in DNA to get as much of the ways oil off of them as I could. Fired up the tray and burned off any cruft. Some alcohol was left over, so that made a nice display for a while.
But the steel oxidized a bit an turned the brass black. It still worked, but I really had difficulty getting the heat evenly applied. I need to locate a nice chunk of copper to make a tray from.
Photographs look pretty nice, however.
Another compromise I had to make: All I had was aluminum to make the U-clip for the grommet. It cannot be seen, so I'm happy with it. If I aquire some brass sheet, I'll fix that.
I decided not to replace the sidelight that's cracked on the left side. Replacing the front glass was traumatic to the wood beads that glaze the glass to the door. I don't find the short 4cm or so crack to be distracting to the clock, so I left it.
"Congratulations" , it's a beauty