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Setting up Fusee Chime - Chime won't release on a new project

Probox

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20220119_104738.jpg 20220119_104745.jpg 20220119_104756.jpg 20220119_104805.jpg 20220119_104845.jpg 20220119_110819.jpg Hi all. So, this is my next project, I bought this triple fusee bracket clock. See pics. I removed the movement to find that for some reason I cannot release the "Chime" at all. No matter how much I play with things, it won't release and the fusee is under power and fully wound. Must have been a problem with it. Does anyone out there have any idea how I can get this chime sequence to start? (I removed the hammers so I could see better) Nothing looks broken.
 

bruce linde

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what does ‘release the chine’ mean… let down the chime train mainspring? are you trying to disassemble the movement, or just make it work? It probably needs full disassembly and service
 

Mike Phelan

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Looking at the rack hooks on both chime and strike it seems as though it was partially through its chiming. Whet is the lever at the top by the right of the bells? It looks like a stop for chiming, so is that just operating and preventing it from chiming?

A very nice clock!
 

Probox

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Looking at the rack hooks on both chime and strike it seems as though it was partially through its chiming. Whet is the lever at the top by the right of the bells? It looks like a stop for chiming, so is that just operating and preventing it from chiming?

A very nice clock!
Yeah, I prodded and played and moved everything but nothing would make the chime sequence start.
 

Probox

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what does ‘release the chine’ mean… let down the chime train mainspring? are you trying to disassemble the movement, or just make it work? It probably needs full disassembly and service
Yes, I am hoping to get the chime and strike working properly. That way I can analyze it working and understand it better so that when I do take it apart, I'll know how it's suppose to function. I do eventually want to let down the power (and the reserve power on the fusees) and separate the plates for full cleaning.
 

John MacArthur

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It kind of looks like the chime warn lever is not released, even though the pin on the chime snail appears to have passed it. Can't really tell by the photos. It may have to do with the chime-silent lever not being engaged with it's dial. The strike release lever has not been lifted due to the chime rack not being completely advanced. The movement looks filthy, which would probably prevent these trains from working very well anyway. It's a very nice movement and deserves care. Take it pretty easy until you understand it.
Johnny
 

Probox

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It kind of looks like the chime warn lever is not released, even though the pin on the chime snail appears to have passed it. Can't really tell by the photos. It may have to do with the chime-silent lever not being engaged with it's dial. The strike release lever has not been lifted due to the chime rack not being completely advanced. The movement looks filthy, which would probably prevent these trains from working very well anyway. It's a very nice movement and deserves care. Take it pretty easy until you understand it.
Johnny
Yes, that is my intention, to fully understand it before I take apart.....also, there is no safe way to take apart without releasing that tension on the barrel without that chiming section working. (that I know of)
 

Probox

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It kind of looks like the chime warn lever is not released, even though the pin on the chime snail appears to have passed it. Can't really tell by the photos. It may have to do with the chime-silent lever not being engaged with it's dial. The strike release lever has not been lifted due to the chime rack not being completely advanced. The movement looks filthy, which would probably prevent these trains from working very well anyway. It's a very nice movement and deserves care. Take it pretty easy until you understand it.
Johnny
Here's a closer pic, I don't know if it's any clearer but the pin on the wheel is not stopping the wheel, it is passed.

20220119_134118.jpg 20220119_134149.jpg
 

John MacArthur

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Probably the train is gummed up enough that it won't run. Usually you can release the ratchet pawl within the fusee by sticking a small pin through a hole in the great wheel. Look for a tiny hole between a couple of teeth. Be sure to have a let-down on the winding square. If you have to let the train run to find the hole, you might get away with removing the fly cock and fly, and providing friction with a finger on the warning arbor. When the hole comes around you can stick a piece of pegwood into the train to stop it. Good luck,
Johnny
 

Probox

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Probably the train is gummed up enough that it won't run. Usually you can release the ratchet pawl within the fusee by sticking a small pin through a hole in the great wheel. Look for a tiny hole between a couple of teeth. Be sure to have a let-down on the winding square. If you have to let the train run to find the hole, you might get away with removing the fly cock and fly, and providing friction with a finger on the warning arbor. When the hole comes around you can stick a piece of pegwood into the train to stop it. Good luck,
Johnny
I was able to find the problem and now the chimes are working....not properly due to the system being unserviced but they will wind down now. What it was, was the arbor with the stop pin goes through the plate and to a bridge with a pivot hole. That bridge can move. It was in such a position that the arbor of the stop wheel was up against the back plate and not able to turn. After close inspection I realized this might be stopping it and adjusted it. And away it went. Here's a pic of where the problem was for anybody that may have a similar problem. I now wonder why that arbor would be allowed to move like that? Strange.

20220119_191120.jpg 20220119_191130.jpg
 

wow

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If you remove the bridge you should see a broken pin probably. There is , on mine, a pin in each fly arbor bridge which holds it in place.
 

Probox

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If you remove the bridge you should see a broken pin probably. There is , on mine, a pin in each fly arbor bridge which holds it in place.
Do you mean a broken pivot? If that's what you meant, it doesn't appear to be problematic as it seems to work just fine once I relocated the arbor away from the side of the backplate.
 

wow

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Do you mean a broken pivot? If that's what you meant, it doesn't appear to be problematic as it seems to work just fine once I relocated the arbor away from the side of the backplate.
That bridge mounts to the plate with a screw. There is also a pin in the bridge that goes into a hole in the plate and keeps the bridge from moving. Your pin must be broken or missing.
 

TEACLOCKS

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I don't like your pictures, Can't enlarge.
When the chime rack is unlocked on the hour it will be pushed to the left hard buy the spring at the rack pivot.
The pin on the out side of the chime rack hits the strike rack lock arm tail & lifts the the lock from the strike rack& the strike rack is pushed to the left by the spring at pivot of the strike rack.
The springs have to have a lot of tension to push the rack to the left.
I just worked on a movement that looks just like the one you are working on But not a fusee.

DSCF9243.JPG DSCF912443.jpg DSCF9244.JPG DSCF9245.JPG DSCF9246.JPG DSCF9247.JPG DSCF9248.JPG DSCF9249.JPG DSCF9250.JPG DSCF9252.JPG
 

Probox

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That bridge mounts to the plate with a screw. There is also a pin in the bridge that goes into a hole in the plate and keeps the bridge from moving. Your pin must be broken or missing.
Oh, yes, the hold pins, it appears to have two pins but whether or not they are broken off I cannot tell without removing it. I would say you are correct, it must have broken pins in order to move about as such.
 

Probox

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I don't like your pictures, Can't enlarge.
When the chime rack is unlocked on the hour it will be pushed to the left hard buy the spring at the rack pivot.
The pin on the out side of the chime rack hits the strike rack lock arm tail & lifts the the lock from the strike rack& the strike rack is pushed to the left by the spring at pivot of the strike rack.
The springs have to have a lot of tension to push the rack to the left.
I just worked on a movement that looks just like the one you are working on But not a fusee.

View attachment 691212 View attachment 691213 View attachment 691214 View attachment 691215 View attachment 691216 View attachment 691217 View attachment 691218 View attachment 691219 View attachment 691220 View attachment 691221
Nice clock,, very similar chime function. Mine seems to be working albeit slowly and needing prodding once in a while, so I will just take it apart and clean it.
I say that like it sounds easy, it'll be a big task but if I take my time I can do it.
 

wow

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Take many photos as you go. Check T-2 pivots. I had to bush that one on mine. Yours may need others. Be careful with those big springs.
Will
 

Probox

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Take many photos as you go. Check T-2 pivots. I had to bush that one on mine. Yours may need others. Be careful with those big springs.
Will
Yes, I always dread removing and replacing big fusee springs from the barrel. I always have trouble even with my Ollie mainspring winder.
 

wow

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Do these movements have Self Sync. Capability, If it does I can't figure it out.
ANY Help.
thank you
Lloyd
Lloyd, I have not worked on enough of these movements to know if some have auto-sync. Mine does not. The drum slides easily without removing screws , etc. once set, it stays in sync unless the chime train runs down before the time train.
 

Probox

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Lloyd, I have not worked on enough of these movements to know if some have auto-sync. Mine does not. The drum slides easily without removing screws , etc. once set, it stays in sync unless the chime train runs down before the time train.
Mine did not, I had to remove the hands to sync it when it lost sync. These were simple movements (but good).
 

shutterbug

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I suspect that the auto-sync is almost never used on most clocks. It's pretty much an unneeded addition unless the movement is badly worn.
 

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