





Yeah, I prodded and played and moved everything but nothing would make the chime sequence start.Looking at the rack hooks on both chime and strike it seems as though it was partially through its chiming. Whet is the lever at the top by the right of the bells? It looks like a stop for chiming, so is that just operating and preventing it from chiming?
A very nice clock!
Yes, I am hoping to get the chime and strike working properly. That way I can analyze it working and understand it better so that when I do take it apart, I'll know how it's suppose to function. I do eventually want to let down the power (and the reserve power on the fusees) and separate the plates for full cleaning.what does ‘release the chine’ mean… let down the chime train mainspring? are you trying to disassemble the movement, or just make it work? It probably needs full disassembly and service
Yes, that is my intention, to fully understand it before I take apart.....also, there is no safe way to take apart without releasing that tension on the barrel without that chiming section working. (that I know of)It kind of looks like the chime warn lever is not released, even though the pin on the chime snail appears to have passed it. Can't really tell by the photos. It may have to do with the chime-silent lever not being engaged with it's dial. The strike release lever has not been lifted due to the chime rack not being completely advanced. The movement looks filthy, which would probably prevent these trains from working very well anyway. It's a very nice movement and deserves care. Take it pretty easy until you understand it.
Johnny
Here's a closer pic, I don't know if it's any clearer but the pin on the wheel is not stopping the wheel, it is passed.It kind of looks like the chime warn lever is not released, even though the pin on the chime snail appears to have passed it. Can't really tell by the photos. It may have to do with the chime-silent lever not being engaged with it's dial. The strike release lever has not been lifted due to the chime rack not being completely advanced. The movement looks filthy, which would probably prevent these trains from working very well anyway. It's a very nice movement and deserves care. Take it pretty easy until you understand it.
Johnny
Also, I checked all of the wheels in the chime train including the fusee cone and they all have sufficient endshake which clears the theory that they are jammed somehow.Here's a closer pic, I don't know if it's any clearer but the pin on the wheel is not stopping the wheel, it is passed.
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I was able to find the problem and now the chimes are working....not properly due to the system being unserviced but they will wind down now. What it was, was the arbor with the stop pin goes through the plate and to a bridge with a pivot hole. That bridge can move. It was in such a position that the arbor of the stop wheel was up against the back plate and not able to turn. After close inspection I realized this might be stopping it and adjusted it. And away it went. Here's a pic of where the problem was for anybody that may have a similar problem. I now wonder why that arbor would be allowed to move like that? Strange.Probably the train is gummed up enough that it won't run. Usually you can release the ratchet pawl within the fusee by sticking a small pin through a hole in the great wheel. Look for a tiny hole between a couple of teeth. Be sure to have a let-down on the winding square. If you have to let the train run to find the hole, you might get away with removing the fly cock and fly, and providing friction with a finger on the warning arbor. When the hole comes around you can stick a piece of pegwood into the train to stop it. Good luck,
Johnny
Do you mean a broken pivot? If that's what you meant, it doesn't appear to be problematic as it seems to work just fine once I relocated the arbor away from the side of the backplate.If you remove the bridge you should see a broken pin probably. There is , on mine, a pin in each fly arbor bridge which holds it in place.
That bridge mounts to the plate with a screw. There is also a pin in the bridge that goes into a hole in the plate and keeps the bridge from moving. Your pin must be broken or missing.Do you mean a broken pivot? If that's what you meant, it doesn't appear to be problematic as it seems to work just fine once I relocated the arbor away from the side of the backplate.
Oh, yes, the hold pins, it appears to have two pins but whether or not they are broken off I cannot tell without removing it. I would say you are correct, it must have broken pins in order to move about as such.That bridge mounts to the plate with a screw. There is also a pin in the bridge that goes into a hole in the plate and keeps the bridge from moving. Your pin must be broken or missing.
Nice clock,, very similar chime function. Mine seems to be working albeit slowly and needing prodding once in a while, so I will just take it apart and clean it.I don't like your pictures, Can't enlarge.
When the chime rack is unlocked on the hour it will be pushed to the left hard buy the spring at the rack pivot.
The pin on the out side of the chime rack hits the strike rack lock arm tail & lifts the the lock from the strike rack& the strike rack is pushed to the left by the spring at pivot of the strike rack.
The springs have to have a lot of tension to push the rack to the left.
I just worked on a movement that looks just like the one you are working on But not a fusee.
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Yes, I always dread removing and replacing big fusee springs from the barrel. I always have trouble even with my Ollie mainspring winder.Take many photos as you go. Check T-2 pivots. I had to bush that one on mine. Yours may need others. Be careful with those big springs.
Will
Lloyd, I have not worked on enough of these movements to know if some have auto-sync. Mine does not. The drum slides easily without removing screws , etc. once set, it stays in sync unless the chime train runs down before the time train.Do these movements have Self Sync. Capability, If it does I can't figure it out.
ANY Help.
thank you
Lloyd
Mine did not, I had to remove the hands to sync it when it lost sync. These were simple movements (but good).Lloyd, I have not worked on enough of these movements to know if some have auto-sync. Mine does not. The drum slides easily without removing screws , etc. once set, it stays in sync unless the chime train runs down before the time train.