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Schatz clock
- Thread starter m151
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eemoore
NAWCC Member
Timesavers has what you need. .004 '' item 10491. do you have the lower block?
I don't know, what is lower block
It is the block attached to the bottom of the suspension spring, so that you can hang the pendulum disc.
JTD
eemoore
NAWCC Member
The spring is attached at the bottom to a metal ( plastic sometimes ) piece that has a pin through it which holds the pendulum.
*JTD and I were responding at the same time.
tracerjack
Registered User
Ronell Clock Co also carries them. Ronell Clock: 400-Day Anniversary Clock Parts - Ronell Clock Co. Bottom blocks as well. The Schatz 49 is a good running clock, but you may need to have it serviced to get it running. The mainspring in a 400 day is sometimes fine, but more often it is so dry, it cannot power the clock.
Willie X
Registered User
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Schatz 49, one of the best running 400-Day clocks ever made, no plastic on this one. BUT there is a lot more to these clocks than first meets the eye.
What tracer just said.
They sell those springs in 3-packs, knowing you will probably screw up at least one.
Willie X
What tracer just said.
They sell those springs in 3-packs, knowing you will probably screw up at least one.
Willie X
I have read and now what bottom block is, I don't have one. I also read about pendulum lock and I don't see one. If I understand it would be right under the movement and go through the pendulum. I also don't see a hole in the pendulum for a pin to go through. I will read through again.
demoman3955
Registered User
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Ronell is only a couple miles from me but i still have to have things shipped. I thought i could save shipping, but noooo. lol
MartinM
Registered User
There is no pendulum lock on your clock. The device with the thumbscrew is meant to protect the suspension spring when moving the clock. It is just wide enough to accept the bottom block on the spring and engages with the pin in the block.
I have disassembled the clock The base is plastic with real thin metal covering it. The schatz 49 isn't supposed to have any plastic, Do I actually have a 49? I am going to try to polish the metal covering the base. Now I understand to level the clock the pendulum should hang centered in the little cone on the base. Problem there is that cone can move 1/4" in any direction. How to position the cone? should I use a level on the base and level it then move that cone so it is right under the pendulum? Next question is how long to make the suspension wire, IE how far should the pendulum be from the little cone when hanging?
tracerjack
Registered User
The base is typically made of an inner plate and a thin spun brass cover. The inner core plate can be plastic or perhaps it is resin, but that is original. The thin brass cover is often cracked, so count yourself lucky if yours is not. It does not matter if the cup can move a bit, as long as the pendulum spindle does not touch the sides when in motion. But, level the base if you want. How long to make the suspension wire is partly a matter of taste. I prefer the tip of the spindle to be in the cup with about a quarter inch gap between the spindle tip and the base of the cup. Kind of depends on how deep the cup is. Usually the suspension wire is cut a little bit long, then shorten if needed.
I'll try to polish the brass cover and it isn't cracked. If it doesn't polish out I have some gold paint I painted some window weights I used for weights in a grandfather clock that is really close in color to polished brass. So apparently doesn't matter if clock isn't level so long as pendulum doesn't touch side of cup.
Thanks very much
Leo
KurtinSA
NAWCC Member
It matters somewhat that the clock is level. To do that, ensure that the suspension spring is parallel to the back plate and evenly spaced side to side. If the tip of the pendulum isn't in the guide cup, then the cup will need to be moved. With the suspension spring hanging correctly, lean over the top of the clock and sight straight down the spring...you should see where the cup should be in order to be directly under the pendulum.
Personally, I would stay away from the gold paint. The brass should polish up. It would be nice to see more pictures of the clocks, front, back, and the whole clock. I use something like simichrome and a microfiber towel to apply the polish in small patches, and then another towel to buff it clean. It may take several passes, but it will look so much better when polished.
Kurt
Personally, I would stay away from the gold paint. The brass should polish up. It would be nice to see more pictures of the clocks, front, back, and the whole clock. I use something like simichrome and a microfiber towel to apply the polish in small patches, and then another towel to buff it clean. It may take several passes, but it will look so much better when polished.
Kurt
Willie X
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A simple way to locate the cup is to screw in the feet (if it has feet) and set it on a level surface. No feet no problem. 
Then carefully position the cup and mark it, remove the pendulum and tighten the cup to the mark/s.
It would probably be a good idea to remove the suspension spring too.
I usually go for 1mm clearance at the bottom of the pendulum tip.
Willie X
Then carefully position the cup and mark it, remove the pendulum and tighten the cup to the mark/s. It would probably be a good idea to remove the suspension spring too.
I usually go for 1mm clearance at the bottom of the pendulum tip.
Willie X
Last edited:
There is a tremendous amount of good advice in this thread, M151. The base is brass formed over a bakelite core. As long as it is not stress cracked (they often are), it can be made to shine and look like new, if that's the look you're going for. Willie in particular is right - the movement is built like a tank, but a dry mainspring can prevent it from running properly. It's not just a matter of taking the cover off and adding oil, however. The mainspring must be removed, cleaned, properly lubricated and reinstalled in the barrel. If you don't have a mainspring winder and know how to use it, well, seek help.
I have no way to unwind the mainspring. If I take the hands and face off and put movement in ultrasonic cleaner will that clean mainspring? If so how to oil it?
To clean the clock correctly, you must first let down the mainspring and then dismantle the movement completely. Then you can use an ultrasonic if you must; others like them but I don't. Pivot holes should be cleaned using toothpicks or bamboo barbecue skewers as broaches, and the pivots on the ends of each arbor should be polished with your choice of polish (I use plain old car paint polish). I do not know a way to overhaul a mainspring without removing it from the barrel. Please contact me via PM if you wish to discuss that aspect further. After reassembly, light synthetic oil touched sparingly to the oil sinks on the pivot holes will be sufficient. Many of us use the lightest (0W-10?) synthetic automotive oil. Works great; costs next to nothing.
demoman3955
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so how does the 0-10 automotive oil compare to normal clock oils? And with that 0-10 oil, do you use that on all clocks or just the 400 day clocks? Im getting ready to attack one and have no problem buying 0-10 if needed.
I don't know how it compares to normal clock oils; I just know it works great and I use it for any clock requiring light oil. I don't use it on mainsprings, and I'll use a heavier oil on pivots farther down the train on heavier movements like Hermles and the like. Plus if I ever get bored working on clocks I can always dump the left over oil in the lawn mower.
Willie X
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It's a good all round lube for clocks.
I've used 0W-20 for about 12 years. It wasn't generaly available until 2011. The reason I know this date is, I bought a new Toyota in December 2010. That car required 0W-20 synthetic oil and no one stocked it. It didn't need changing for 10,000 miles and it became available everywhere by mid 2011.
It's great for new (or like new) mainsprings. There has been several post written on this subject.
Some of the 400-Day experts (on this list) are advocating oil on only the mainspring arbor and the next two or three arbors up. The thinking is that the forces are close to zero past this point and 400-Day clocks are very sensitive to any friction that aging oil will have. If you do go past the third wheel, I think the amount of oil should be minuscule.
My 2, Willie X
I've used 0W-20 for about 12 years. It wasn't generaly available until 2011. The reason I know this date is, I bought a new Toyota in December 2010. That car required 0W-20 synthetic oil and no one stocked it. It didn't need changing for 10,000 miles and it became available everywhere by mid 2011.
It's great for new (or like new) mainsprings. There has been several post written on this subject.
Some of the 400-Day experts (on this list) are advocating oil on only the mainspring arbor and the next two or three arbors up. The thinking is that the forces are close to zero past this point and 400-Day clocks are very sensitive to any friction that aging oil will have. If you do go past the third wheel, I think the amount of oil should be minuscule.
My 2, Willie X
TEACLOCKS
NAWCC Member
Try
stores.thehorolovarcompany.com
The Horolovar Company Online Store. We are the 400 day clock people!
Shop here for your 400 day anniversary clock needs: Suspension & mainsprings, other clock parts, tools, and repair books, We can help you select the right parts!
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