Schatz 49 400 day clock wire guard

[m151]

I'll be installing suspension wire in a few days when it comes in. In reading the guard has to be removed. Reading that suspension wire is so delicate it is easy to damage. Once I get the wire on and everything adjusted set up and running what would be wrong to just leave that guard off? Putting the guard back on looks like is another easy way to damage the guard. I don't see any need for it.

 

[Willie X]

I would put it back on. Putting it back is far easier than any part of the SS replacement on this clock. And even though you may not use it for transport. When the pendulum is off, it can keep the suspension spring from swinging out to the back and allowing the fork to unhook.

This .004" spring is delicate but not as delicate as you may think.

Willie X

 

[shutterbug]

The main thing is the thickness of the spring and to a lesser degree, it's length. If you have the 400 day book, it has information on both the spring and the attachments. The blocks can be a bear to get positioned and tightened enough. You'll need a tiny but strong screwdriver
I'm going to move your thread to the 400 day forum for you.

 

[wow]

Hey, Shutt. I sent you a private message.

 

[m151]

I got suspension wire installed. Clock runs about 20 min. and stops. I got SS a little short, the bottom of the pendulum barely misses the cup. Could that cause it? also when I went to install the fork wouldn't go over that stem, I opened it up some. What would be the clearance on that fork. I'm sure to little and it would stop, how about to much. So could it be too short of ss or fork clearance not right?

 

[KurtinSA]

Too short won't stop the clock. But the fork should have a paper widths clearance...too much or too tight will stop the clock. Be sure the clock is in beat.

Kurt

 

[m151]

Too short won't stop the clock. But the fork should have a paper widths clearance...too much or too tight will stop the clock. Be sure the clock is in beat.

Kurt

A little progress, It run 4:10 after I loosened the fork. I play again tomorrow.

 

[Vint]

I’d like to join in this discussion as I’ve been having a devil of a time getting my 49 to stay running. I’ve actually restored and serviced two Schatz 49’s and they are working fine. But the one I have now won’t stay working longer than 20 minutes. The EW teeth slide off the pallets equally, I’ve moved the fork up and down and have followed the 400 Anniversary clock manual explicitly.
I have even put my working 49 next to the one in question and can’t see any difference.
Any suggestions are welcome……I’m using horolovar parts as well.

 

[Wayne A]

I’d like to join in this discussion as I’ve been having a devil of a time getting my 49 to stay running. I’ve actually restored and serviced two Schatz 49’s and they are working fine. But the one I have now won’t stay working longer than 20 minutes. The EW teeth slide off the pallets equally, I’ve moved the fork up and down and have followed the 400 Anniversary clock manual explicitly.
I have even put my working 49 next to the one in question and can’t see any difference.
Any suggestions are welcome……I’m using horolovar parts as well.

First place to start is power and power loss. Overhaul mainspring? Do a power test with motion works removed and anchor removed, how many clicks of power to spin the EW? I like to see one or two clicks to spin the EW. If it fails find the power loss, pivots polished and smooth broach pivot holes are a good place to start.

Wayne

 

[Robert Gift]

I'll be installing suspension wire in a few days when it comes in. In reading the guard has to be removed. Reading that suspension wire is so delicate it is easy to damage. Once I get the wire on and everything adjusted set up and running what would be wrong to just leave that guard off? Putting the guard back on looks like is another easy way to damage the guard. I don't see any need for it.

Once in place, I remove the guard but keep it. I'd rather see the torsion wire than the guard, especiallyvhen plastic.

 

[Vint]

First place to start is power and power loss. Overhaul mainspring? Do a power test with motion works removed and anchor removed, how many clicks of power to spin the EW? I like to see one or two clicks to spin the EW. If it fails find the power loss, pivots polished and smooth broach pivot holes are a good place to start.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne. Think I’ll take it apart again and do a better check of everything