Rotary table set-up

Discussion in 'Horological Tools' started by wow, Nov 7, 2018.

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  1. wow

    wow Registered User
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    I am trying to figure out what accessory I am missing to set up the rotary wheel on the Sherline mill I recently acquired. I have it set up vertically (in photo), but I want to set it up horizontally for gear cutting. I looked on Sherline’s website and see no adapter which is designed for this. I got all of this equipment with no instructions and the gentleman I got it from does not remember anything about any of his equipment. I have jewelers lathes, but, am totally green on Sherline equipment. Any suggestions or photos appreciated.

    A4CD61E5-3422-43D7-9E37-56A11A81E001.jpeg
     
  2. flynwill

    flynwill Registered User
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    The part you want is the #3701 "Right Angle Attachment".

    There is also the #3750 "Tilting angle table"
     
  3. Harry Hopkins

    Harry Hopkins Registered User
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    I'm not clear on what you are trying to accomplish with setting up the mill horizontally. Are you looking for the adapter to mount a 3 or 4 jaw chuck on the rotary table? If so look here. The center hole in the rotary table is a 3/8" - 16 thread and the Sherline chucks (3 and 4 jaw) have 3/4" - 16 threads. As seen in the link above Sherline also sells adapters so chucks from other manufactures can be used with the rotary table.
     
  4. Dick Feldman

    Dick Feldman Registered User

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    Click here
    https://sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/3700inst.pdf for Sherline's instructions to your rotary table.
    Sherline provides a free downloadable PDF sheet on each of their tools.
    Sometimes it is a hassle to find exactly where those are, but they are usually comprehensive.
    Best,
    Dick Feldman
     
  5. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Wow, gentlemen. Thanks. I have the adapters, but I need those instructions and photos. I do have the three jaw and four jaw chucks.
     
  6. James Foster

    James Foster Registered User
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    wow

    There is a hole on the left side of the headstock right beside a dip creating a window to see a degree scale. At the bottom of that hole is an Allen head screw. Loosen that screw and the headstock will begin to separate from its base. There is a approximately 1/4” x 1/4” x 2.5” long bar stock sticking up about ⅜” acting as a key to insure correct alignment. Slide that key out and you should be able to rotate the headstock 90 degrees and two slots will line up so you can insert the key. Tighten the same Allen screw which will be oriented to what will now be underneath the headstock.

    Those instructions will work on the mill I bought new about 3-4 years ago. Yours looks older and has something extra to the left and a belt guard that mine doesn’t have but I assume yours is the same basic design. This will orient the headstock horizontally and leave the rotary table basically where it is, or you might have to move to the right closer to the edge of the bed so you can position the cutter to the center of your blank. This will allow you to install a chuck after turning a blank in the lathe and cut the wheel with the rotary table in its most stable orientation.

    Hope this helps,

    Jim
     
  7. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Jim, you can see that I am totally green on the Sherline equipment. The info you provided helps tremendously. I have a tilting angle table and was trying to make it work at 90 degrees, but your way is much easier. Just trying to learn without studying first. I’m bad about that.
     
  8. James Foster

    James Foster Registered User
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    Will

    I also have the tilting and fixed 90 degree tables and under some circumstances they might be useful but I don’t believe I’d choose setups requiring them for simple wheel cutting. Again I think you’d find the rotary table much more stable fixed to the bed and the cutter rotating toward the bed.

    I’m not certain of the schedule or your availability but if you can find your way to Columbia and take Jerry’s wheel and pinion cutting class, it will save you a time consuming and frustrating experience (test first, lesson later).

    Good luck
    Jim
     
  9. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Thanks, Jim. Where do I find info about Jerry’s classes?
     
  10. James Foster

    James Foster Registered User
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    Here a link to the next class. They’re on a Saturday & Sunday across the street from the NAWCC museum. You’ll cut a wheel and pinion before you leave and know how to do it again.
     
  11. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Thanks, Jim. I ordered the adapter that allows me to screw the three or four jaw chuck onto the rotary table. I took your advise and re-set. Makes much more sense.

    1AD927B1-0010-4962-B4E0-FBF5D52C8430.jpeg
     
  12. James Foster

    James Foster Registered User
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    I was taking a look at the last picture you posted. There are a couple of things I thought I’d mention. The holder you have chucked up looks like it might be a surfacing tool instead of a single point cutter holder. The difference is a surfacing tool holds the tool bit at an angle where only the tip of it the will touch a surface almost parallel to the tool bit. You don’t need the chuck to mount it. Both the surfacing tool and the single point cutter holder have tapered shafts. They are designed to mount directly in the spindle of the headstock which has a matching taper. You use a long bolt, possibly the one in the red dish, with one of the washers passing it through the spindle threading it into the end of the holder. To remove the holder you will have to tap the back with a appropriately 5/16” x 4” rod to dislodge it from the taper. Also typically you’d use a couple of hold down angles on the left side of the rotary table.

    Jim
     
  13. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Thanks, Jim. I wondered about the angles to hold it down. I got the adapters from Sherline and now have it set up. Thanks for the info about the holder. That helps a lot. Making progress slowly but surely.
     
  14. Harry Hopkins

    Harry Hopkins Registered User
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    Will,

    One more small suggestion for you... You should mount your mill on a board for stability. Sherline recommends a piece of finished shelving material. I cut my piece 12" X 14" and that works very well for me. For more details of Sherlines instructions for a base see page 10 of this document. You will also want to put some plastic or rubber feet under your board for legs.

    image000000 (71).jpg
     
  15. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Thanks, Harry. I have some old 12 inch solid wood pieces. Think I’ll sand and seal one of those for the base.
     
  16. Vernon

    Vernon Registered User
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    Hey Will,
    You might consider what Harry mentioned for your base as it will be less apt to warp or crack.

    James,
    Thanks for the heads up on that class as I just received my new mill and don't want to stumble. I did have the opportunity at my last class to do bushing work with one however.
     
  17. Harry Hopkins

    Harry Hopkins Registered User
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    Jerry's classes have been mentioned a few times in this thread... I just want to add that I have taken all three of the classes Jerry teaches at the NAWCC classroom in Columbia PA. Other than some simple tasks I had taught myself on my mill and lathe I was pretty green with no background in machining. The classroom is very well equipped and each student has their own Sherline lathe and mill to use plus all the tools and material needed for the class are all right at hand. Jerry's lesson plans are well thought out and even though the classes are only 2 days each he has real knack to get you to think like a machinist in that short of a time so you will go home comfortable to tackle other types of machine work that is more complex.
     
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  18. Vernon

    Vernon Registered User
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    Just the push that I needed Harry, I'm signed up for the class! Was also inspired by your web-sight and efforts in your clock build. Funny how this all started for me in 2003 with the purchase of a kitchen clock at an antiques shop. I can't wait to get back to Columbia!
     
  19. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Gentlemen, this has been most helpful. I have the mill stabilized on a 12x14 3/4 inch board. Got in the adapters and set up the rotary table properly. I even cut a gear. Looks like it was made with a crooked file, but I cut it. Now to begin fine tuning things. Wish I lived closer to Jerry’s class. I’ll make one one day.
     
  20. James Foster

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    Will

    If you don’t have the plane of the center of the cutter traveling through the center of the wheel it will give you drunk teeth, that’s what Bill Smith called them. That could be a universal term but I thought I’d attribute it to him in case someone wanted to attack me. I remember when I called the strike lift cam on the hand post a hurricane. I won’t do that again.

    Jim
     
  21. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Sounds good to me. Mine definitely looked
    like I’d been drinking something. Next I’m gonna try to grind a cutter for my fly cutter accessory like Jerry suggests in his hand out for his classes. Just playing now. It’s fun. Got to invest in some good circular cutters. They’re expensive.
     
  22. Chris Radek

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    Will, can we see your first gear?

    (Contrate wheels on verges can have "drunk teeth" on purpose because the escape wheel is necessarily off to one side a bit so the pinions can clear each other)
     
  23. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Chris, I was just playing around with an old scrap piece of brass. I am reluctant to show it. Good laugh!! I only have cheap cutting wheels which I used just to play with. Here is the way I set it up and the wheel. Will be ordering good cutting wheels once I find out where to get them.

    A3828125-C784-4409-AF14-A6B8079EFFD1.jpeg 09FA3F6B-B8BC-4F64-B5E7-1FD7B3145E14.jpeg
     

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