Riveting

[Paul Statham]

Hi i need to replace this rivet on the click i have never done anything like this before, so can anyone advise me how to go about it what tools what type of rivets steel or brass.Thanks in advance Paul

 

[bikerclockguy]

I have wondered the same thing, and have undoubtedly let some rivets go that should have been replaced. I figured I would probably end up mangling the new rivet and screwing up the whole operation. I found this thread on the subject a minute ago. https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/proper-way-to-rivet-click-spring.37538/

 

[wow]

Paul, you, of course, must remove the wheel from the movement, grind or file the back side of the old rivet down where it can be punched out. Then insert a new one, lay it on an anvil and pein it with a hammer until it is snug. Do not tighten enough that the click will not move. A shouldered rivet like the first one on this Timesavers page works well on this type click.


Here’s a better photo:

Steel Shoulder Rivets 50-Pack

50 piece pack of a steel shoulder rivet that is used on clicks. 1/16" diameter x .164" long with a .105" shoulder.

timesavers.com

 

[Paul Statham]

Thanks biketclockguy will have a look at that

 

[Paul Statham]

Paul, you, of course, must remove the wheel from the movement, grind or file the back side of the old rivet down where it can be punched out. Then insert a new one, lay it on an anvil and pein it with a hammer until it is snug. Do not tighten enough that the click will not move. A shouldered rivet like the first one on this Timesavers page works well on this type click.

View attachment 633705
Here’s a better photo:

Steel Shoulder Rivets 50-Pack

50 piece pack of a steel shoulder rivet that is used on clicks. 1/16" diameter x .164" long with a .105" shoulder.

timesavers.com

Hi wow I live in the UK don't know if they have shoulder rivets here will have a search thanks

 

[glenhead]

One easy way to keep from locking the click tight when you peen the rivet is to just put a piece of paper between the click and the wheel while you peen it. Post-It notes work well - decent thickness, tough paper, etc.

Glen

 

[Paul Statham]

thanks Glen do you use round or flat rivets or will the round type get in the way also steel or brass?

Paul

 

[shutterbug]

When possible, steel shouldered rivets are your best bet. A quick look at Cousins in the UK shows rivets, but not shouldered ones.

 

[Kevin W.]

I make my own on my lathe, as the ones i bought usually are not shouldered or right sizes.

 

[howtorepairpendulumclocks]

if you don't have a lathe, I'm sure someone on this forum will turn one for you if you send dimensions. Yes a shouldered rivet is where you need to be at, about 0.25mm higher than the thickness of the click so when you rivet, it doesnt bind.

 

[Paul Statham]

Thanks for your feedback will have a look at counsins again waiting on a spring winder from there must have missed them rivets does it matter about the shape of the head shutterbug

 

[wow]

Thanks for your feedback will have a look at counsins again waiting on a spring winder from there must have missed them rivets does it matter about the shape of the head shutterbug

The shape of the head should not matter.

 

[Dietofnothing]

I just did this one the other night (before image). It was the first time I did it too. I used a drill with a grinding stone to grind off the rivet from the top (click side). I bought a Sessions click kit from Timesavers. You get brass clicks, rivets, and springs new. The rivets were not shouldered - but that’s what I had; so it was going to work. Was not worried about grinding the click cuz was using new one. You could use a file or even drill it out if it’s brass.

Once it was ground thorough, you can pull the click off pretty easily. Then I gently tapped and pulled the old rivet out with a jeweler’s brass hammer & tiny lineman’s style jewelers pliers.

The new click’s rivet was a hair too big for the hole - so I filed the hole with a tiny round file a bit. Then you put the new click in with rivet / spring. I mushroomed the new rivet off with jewelers hammer (steel) hitting a round punch (steel) with a flat face on the rivet.

I didn’t want to use a big hammer cuz everyone says it’s so easy to make them too tight. Took about 10 hits until it was tight not too tight. Then fastened the spring and tested & it worked well.

 

[MuensterMann]

and have undoubtedly let some rivets go that should have been replaced. I figured I would probably end up mangling the new rivet and screwing up the whole operation

However, better than mangling your fingers when the click fails when winding!!

 

[Paul Statham]

I just did this one the other night (before image). It was the first time I did it too. I used a drill with a grinding stone to grind off the rivet from the top (click side). I bought a Sessions click kit from Timesavers. You get brass clicks, rivets, and springs new. The rivets were not shouldered - but that’s what I had; so it was going to work. Was not worried about grinding the click cuz was using new one. You could use a file or even drill it out if it’s brass.

Once it was ground thorough, you can pull the click off pretty easily. Then I gently tapped and pulled the old rivet out with a jeweler’s brass hammer & tiny lineman’s style jewelers pliers.

The new click’s rivet was a hair too big for the hole - so I filed the hole with a tiny round file a bit. Then you put the new click in with rivet / spring. I mushroomed the new rivet off with jewelers hammer (steel) hitting a round punch (steel) with a flat face on the rivet.

I didn’t want to use a big hammer cuz everyone says it’s so easy to make them too tight. Took about 10 hits until it was tight not too tight. Then fastened the spring and tested & it worked well.



View attachment 633850

Thanks dietofnothing having a look around to see where i can buy them from cousins in the uk where i live have a set of 50 but can't get them until March 3rd