• Important Executive Director Announcement from the NAWCC

    The NAWCC Board of Directors is pleased to announce that Mr. Rory McEvoy has been named Executive Director of the NAWCC. Rory is an internationally renowned horological scholar and comes to the NAWCC with strong credentials that solidly align with our education, fundraising, and membership growth objectives. He has a postgraduate degree in the conservation and restoration of antique clocks from West Dean College, and throughout his career, he has had the opportunity to handle some of the world’s most important horological artifacts, including longitude timekeepers by Harrison, Kendall, and Mudge.

    Rory formerly worked as Curator of Horology at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, where his role included day-to-day management of research and digitization projects, writing, public speaking, conservation, convening conferences, exhibition work, and development of acquisition/disposal and collection care policies. In addition, he has worked as a horological specialist at Bonhams in London, where he cataloged and handled many rare timepieces and built important relationships with collectors, buyers, and sellers. Most recently, Rory has used his talents to share his love of horology at the university level by teaching horological theory, history, and the practical repair and making of clocks and watches at Birmingham City University.

    Rory is a British citizen and currently resides in the UK. Pre-COVID-19, Rory and his wife, Kaai, visited HQ in Columbia, Pennsylvania, where they met with staff, spent time in the Museum and Library & Research Center, and toured the area. Rory and Kaai will be relocating to the area as soon as the immigration challenges and travel restrictions due to COVID-19 permit.

    Some of you may already be familiar with Rory as he is also a well-known author and lecturer. His recent publications include the book Harrison Decoded: Towards a Perfect Pendulum Clock, which he edited with Jonathan Betts, and the article “George Graham and the Orrery” in the journal Nuncius.

    Until Rory’s relocation to the United States is complete, he will be working closely with an on-boarding team assembled by the NAWCC Board of Directors to introduce him to the opportunities and challenges before us and to ensure a smooth transition. Rory will be participating in strategic and financial planning immediately, which will allow him to hit the ground running when he arrives in Columbia

    You can read more about Rory McEvoy and this exciting announcement in the upcoming March/April issue of the Watch & Clock Bulletin.

    Please join the entire Board and staff in welcoming Rory to the NAWCC community.

Riveting

Paul Statham

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Oct 22, 2020
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Hi i need to replace this rivet on the click i have never done anything like this before, so can anyone advise me how to go about it what tools what type of rivets steel or brass.Thanks in advance Paul

IMG_20210120_095041041.jpg
 

wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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Paul, you, of course, must remove the wheel from the movement, grind or file the back side of the old rivet down where it can be punched out. Then insert a new one, lay it on an anvil and pein it with a hammer until it is snug. Do not tighten enough that the click will not move. A shouldered rivet like the first one on this Timesavers page works well on this type click.

F7730A02-99DF-471E-8D08-D9035DB24897.png
Here’s a better photo:
 

Paul Statham

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Oct 22, 2020
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Paul, you, of course, must remove the wheel from the movement, grind or file the back side of the old rivet down where it can be punched out. Then insert a new one, lay it on an anvil and pein it with a hammer until it is snug. Do not tighten enough that the click will not move. A shouldered rivet like the first one on this Timesavers page works well on this type click.

View attachment 633705
Here’s a better photo:
Hi wow I live in the UK don't know if they have shoulder rivets here will have a search thanks
 

glenhead

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Nov 15, 2009
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One easy way to keep from locking the click tight when you peen the rivet is to just put a piece of paper between the click and the wheel while you peen it. Post-It notes work well - decent thickness, tough paper, etc.

Glen
 

Paul Statham

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Oct 22, 2020
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thanks Glen do you use round or flat rivets or will the round type get in the way also steel or brass?

Paul
 

shutterbug

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When possible, steel shouldered rivets are your best bet. A quick look at Cousins in the UK shows rivets, but not shouldered ones.
 

Kevin W.

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Apr 11, 2002
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I make my own on my lathe, as the ones i bought usually are not shouldered or right sizes.
 

howtorepairpendulumclocks

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Dec 18, 2020
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if you don't have a lathe, I'm sure someone on this forum will turn one for you if you send dimensions. Yes a shouldered rivet is where you need to be at, about 0.25mm higher than the thickness of the click so when you rivet, it doesnt bind.
 

Paul Statham

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Oct 22, 2020
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Thanks for your feedback will have a look at counsins again waiting on a spring winder from there must have missed them rivets does it matter about the shape of the head shutterbug
 

Dietofnothing

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Nov 7, 2020
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I just did this one the other night (before image). It was the first time I did it too. I used a drill with a grinding stone to grind off the rivet from the top (click side). I bought a Sessions click kit from Timesavers. You get brass clicks, rivets, and springs new. The rivets were not shouldered - but that’s what I had; so it was going to work. Was not worried about grinding the click cuz was using new one. You could use a file or even drill it out if it’s brass.

Once it was ground thorough, you can pull the click off pretty easily. Then I gently tapped and pulled the old rivet out with a jeweler’s brass hammer & tiny lineman’s style jewelers pliers.

The new click’s rivet was a hair too big for the hole - so I filed the hole with a tiny round file a bit. Then you put the new click in with rivet / spring. I mushroomed the new rivet off with jewelers hammer (steel) hitting a round punch (steel) with a flat face on the rivet.

I didn’t want to use a big hammer cuz everyone says it’s so easy to make them too tight. Took about 10 hits until it was tight not too tight. Then fastened the spring and tested & it worked well.



9C0A95BC-3769-4679-A4A4-21188FF69A56.jpeg
 

MuensterMann

Registered User
Mar 23, 2008
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and have undoubtedly let some rivets go that should have been replaced. I figured I would probably end up mangling the new rivet and screwing up the whole operation
However, better than mangling your fingers when the click fails when winding!!
 

Paul Statham

Registered User
Oct 22, 2020
30
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8
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I just did this one the other night (before image). It was the first time I did it too. I used a drill with a grinding stone to grind off the rivet from the top (click side). I bought a Sessions click kit from Timesavers. You get brass clicks, rivets, and springs new. The rivets were not shouldered - but that’s what I had; so it was going to work. Was not worried about grinding the click cuz was using new one. You could use a file or even drill it out if it’s brass.

Once it was ground thorough, you can pull the click off pretty easily. Then I gently tapped and pulled the old rivet out with a jeweler’s brass hammer & tiny lineman’s style jewelers pliers.

The new click’s rivet was a hair too big for the hole - so I filed the hole with a tiny round file a bit. Then you put the new click in with rivet / spring. I mushroomed the new rivet off with jewelers hammer (steel) hitting a round punch (steel) with a flat face on the rivet.

I didn’t want to use a big hammer cuz everyone says it’s so easy to make them too tight. Took about 10 hits until it was tight not too tight. Then fastened the spring and tested & it worked well.



View attachment 633850
Thanks dietofnothing having a look around to see where i can buy them from cousins in the uk where i live have a set of 50 but can't get them until March 3rd
 

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