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Resurrected Kieininger

UncleDoc

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Apr 4, 2020
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Way back near the beginning of my clock journey, I bought a kit grandmother clock locally from a lady who was happy to see it go to someone interested in clocks. Long story shortened, while moving it, I managed to drop the movement (Kieninger 78 R 93cm) onto my garage floor. It ran previously, but not after the fall. Time passed and my learning curve progressed in a non-linear fashion, distracting me from this disaster.

In between I found a couple part movements on eBay. When I finally got around to taking another look at the Kieninger situation, I had movements to play with. I was able to apply what I had learned here and rebuilt one of them (73 RK 93cm). I figured out the chime and strike mechanics, which was a revelation considering how intimidated I was when I started. Taking a clock apart was a scary proposition then, but now it's not really a a big deal at all.

Aaaaaanyway, the reason for this post is to try to figure out the end product. Everything was pretty simple except the escapement/verge set-up. It runs without any problem. I measured the beat with Clockmaster on my iPhone and it's got numbers that seem ok to me (se attached photo).in spec, as we say. I didn't apply any science when adjusting the drop and lock, I just winged it until it ran. It's very difficult to observe the escapement since there's no room to view things as they're happening.

The clock runs slow in the beginning of the weight cycle and gradually get's faster as the weight descends. I understand that the chain contributes more weight as things progress, but I didn't think it would be as dramatic as it seems to be.

My ultimate issue is that I even though it runs, I fear that the escapement isn't correctly set and is the cause of the extreme (to me at least) variability in time-keeping. The newbie machinist in me wants to fashion some sort of jig to finely adjust the escapement position. I basically set it in the middle with the set screws and I was able to put in in beat more or less. Part of me thinks I'm done, but the luck in setting up the verge isn't comforting. What's the correct strategy, I guess is my question.


clockmaster 1.PNG clock 2.jpg clock 1.jpg
 

Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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From the sound, yes I would say you have something wrong with the escapement

A good close up video of the running escapement will bring the problem to light.

Willie X
 

Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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The pallet arbor needs to be a little deeper.

And, have you moved the individual pallet bits? If yes, you may need to move the right one down, just a scosh.

Willie X
 

UncleDoc

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The pallet arbor needs to be a little deeper.

And, have you moved the individual pallet bits? If yes, you may need to move the right one down, just a scosh.

Willie X
I didn't move anything, but that doesn't mean the previous owner didn't. It did seem high to me. Thank Willie, I've got some work to do. Much appreciated.

Duane
 

Dave T

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The post that holds the suspension spring looks like it's been spread open more than normal. Does it have the correct spring?
 

UncleDoc

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Great observation. It doesn't appear to have been widened to allow the spring to fit though. I see now that the post has two holes. I move the spring to the outer hole and the set screw has closed the gap a bit.

IMG_0157.jpg IMG_0156.jpg
 

Dave T

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Looks better, might run better? You could squeeze the post now to make the gap parallel, and the spring should still fit.
 

UncleDoc

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I adjusted the pallet on the right per Willie's suggestion and also did the same to the left side. Lowered the arbor slightly. Huge improvement in the pendulum amplitude. Beat's not perfect, but I'll be able to tweak it to get it right.
 
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Willie X

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Not quite perfect but plenty close enough to run good and keep much better time. You will probably have to make a large rate adjustment now. Willie X
 

UncleDoc

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Last question for this post: This clock is destined for a friend in Florida (she fell in love with it). When leveling a clock, what is the correct reference? The movement or the case? If I level the movement, the weights may have clearance issue with the front door. If I level the case,, can the movement tolerate not being exactly level?
 

Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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Level the case, both ways placing the level on the side and then the front glass. It's good to leave the clock leaning back toward the wall at the top, about 1/4 to 3/8" is good. Nothing needs to be exact, just close.

If it's on carpet you need a spacer block between the case and wall near the top, to keep the case steady. A short length of plumbing strap, from the top of the case to the wall is also a good idea.

The main thing is that the beat is good and there is adequate clearance (at least 1/4") between the chime rods, pendulum and weights.

Carry on, Willie X
 

UncleDoc

NAWCC Member
Apr 4, 2020
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Level the case, both ways placing the level on the side and then the front glass. It's good to leave the clock leaning back toward the wall at the top, about 1/4 to 3/8" is good. Nothing needs to be exact, just close.

If it's on carpet you need a spacer block between the case and wall near the top, to keep the case steady. A short length of plumbing strap, from the top of the case to the wall is also a good idea.

The main thing is that the beat is good and there is adequate clearance (at least 1/4") between the chime rods, pendulum and weights.

Carry on, Willie X
Yes sir. thank you.
 

UncleDoc

NAWCC Member
Apr 4, 2020
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Not quite perfect but plenty close enough to run good and keep much better time. You will probably have to make a large rate adjustment now. Willie X
Went away for a week and find that the time was only off by about a half a minute after seven days. Still running extremely strongly.
 

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