Restoring the Howard #2

Discussion in 'Tower, Monumental & Street Clocks' started by bptanguay, Dec 16, 2012.

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  1. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

    Apr 5, 2012
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    You've seen my previous threads on the Howard tower clock going to the Historical Society. Most of the clock is stripped down so I can clean each piece.
    Polish the steel, and the brass. Some of the painted pieces have lost all of the original paint, some were just painted black.
    Does anyone know where to find green paint?
    I go to the automotive stores and the hardware stores, but it looks like they stopped making this color green.
    1872, when green was green!
     

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  2. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    If you're trying to match color, get some paint chips from a paint store. If you're looking for an exact color, take one painted part you can handle to the store & let them put it under their color reading device & have them make a sample for you.

    I have used "hunter green" where a perfect match isn't required for complete repaint. Your level of accuracy in color match is up to you.
     
  3. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    did you spray paint? or brush? I have some of the premade paints but nothing matches close enough. I'm not looking for perfect, but some parts need to match pretty close.
     
  4. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    Rustoleum spray, but no reason not to try a color match. Doesn't cost very much for a sample.
     
  5. FDelGreco

    FDelGreco Registered User
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    When our chapter was restoring a Howard, we took a leg that had some clean paint on it down to a Sherwin Williams store. They used their computer to match the paint. It was as close as you can get.

    We had a professional remove the old paint and spray on a primer and a couple of coats of the green.

    Frank
     
  6. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    DSCN1498 (800x600).jpg
    any idea on how to remove this key that is holding the wheel on the shaft?
     
  7. MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS

    MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS Registered User
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    Looks like end of shaft has been damaged from using a hammer to do the task! You will need to carefully file the mushroomed shaft end to original diameter then use proper gear puller after a bit if soaking in penetrating oil. The drift key may be able to be tapped flush with gear face to facilitate in filing the shaft. The gear looks to be brass so I would mic the shaft end all around to make sure it's not over sized or when driven through the gear damaging the bore or worse yet becoming stuck even worse!
    Good luck
    George
     
  8. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    So does the key go deeper inside? or is it pulled out? I'll take a closer image with better angle.
     
  9. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    DSCN1671 (1024x768).jpg
    here is a better image. looks like no damage to the shaft, but a little to the key.
     
  10. Jim DuBois

    Jim DuBois Registered User
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    #10 Jim DuBois, Dec 25, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2012
    IMO the wheel will be cast iron. There will be either a pin or a screw in the hub of the gear/wheel clamping it all together. It will be necessary to drive out the pin, it will be tapered so you need to drive it out from the small end. If a bolt, it will be necessary to remove it also. Then a gear puller can be used to gently pull the gear/wheel off the key and the shaft. It is not necessary to remove the key first. It may stay on the shaft when the gear is pulled...from the photos I don't think the shaft has been enlarged by hammering or other abuse. Looks pretty normal to me....you will notice in the attached photos (if you enlarge them significantly) show the ends of the keyed shafts looking much like the OP photo.
     

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  11. MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS

    MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS Registered User
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    This is the type of puller I would use. there should be a set screw that bears on the drift key. Your first photo shows what looks like a hammer blow at 9:00 on the shaft but I don't see it in the second photo.
    Go easy!
     

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  12. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Thanks for the advice. I'm sure it will work. I have a pair on the way from a friend.

    update: I'm about half way through the cleaning stage of the clock parts. The most intense cleaning I've ever done on anything.
    Rust, Bird poop, oil, and good old fashioned dirt. I work on it ever spare moment and I have a few friends helping on soaking the gears in tanks they have at their shop, a Big help.

    The parts that were replaced in 1938 which redirected the drive for the dial to the downstairs dial is almost all stripped down and primed. It wasn't a match to the original so I'm going to
    try to match it better and pinstripe it as well. Thanks for letting me share this once in a lifetime experience with all of you.
    I hope you stop by to see it when I'm done.
     
  13. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    I'm not sure if a puller like that would remove the gear becaust of the radiused hub casting. A thick flat bar drilled and tapped for a pressure screw and drilled to pull with a pair of flat bars as close to the spokes and hub as possible may be better.

    Use penetrating oil.

    Alternatively, hex bolts with heavy nuts fitted behind the hub and pressing against the winding drum might be better. Unscrew each slightly until you see if it will budge.

    If you have time, a suitable puller could be made which should do the job risk free.
     
  14. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    I do have several options in removing the gear. I will weigh each process and consider the safest one possible. The last thing I want to do is make a mistake.
    I will proceed with caution, time is on my side. On this job, penetrating oil is my best tool, I'm so surprised at how 99% of all the parts have separated after
    initial installation 140 years ago.
     
  15. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Thanks McClintock for the gear puller idea. There is no set screw on either gear, just a key to slide along the shaft cutout. With gentle application, the gear puller lifted both gears quite easily off from the shafts. Not even a mark was left on either gear. Now I can seperate all the parts to the winch and the crank for the stike side. Pictures will follow upon completion.
    The clock is now 100% stripped down. A great landmark for this project.
     
  16. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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  17. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    Glad to see the puller worked without issues...
     
  18. Burkhard Rasch

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    I´m not an expert on these,but my 2cts:The rounding of the shaft looks too perfect to be done other than by turning.I´m sure the wheel will pass through when it´s movable at all.Could it be that it is held in place by a square shaped wedge,driven into a "mating",lined up slot both of the gear and the shaft ?I´ve seen such connections in the past.If I were right,just pulling on the wheel would cause great dammage to wheel and shaft,instead the wedge should be loosened with creeping oil and then pulled out.Then the shown puller mi9ght be used.Could be wrong,though...
    Burkhard
     
  19. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    Oups,didn´t see that You got it allready!
    Burkhard
     
  20. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    73667_444214418966261_1541137622_n.jpg 582501_444214805632889_105732480_n.jpg
    just got the name plate back, I polished the letters and had the inside powder coated. Also partially set up some of the cleaned pieces. It's moving along quite nicely.
     
  21. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Before and after image. Polished and washed.
    counting wheel.jpg beforeAndAfterpulley.jpg
     
  22. gvasale

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    Looking good. Nice to find good paint under that isn't it.
     
  23. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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  24. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    here are a few before and after images. As I get closer to completion.
    66181_462723717115331_492986191_n.jpg 552545_462723533782016_1094591350_n.jpg 526602_462723357115367_584283458_n.jpg

    66181_462723717115331_492986191_n.jpg 552545_462723533782016_1094591350_n.jpg 526602_462723357115367_584283458_n.jpg
     
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  25. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    542768_534764493230545_243780449_n.jpg
    this is a great shot of the main drive wheel that holds the cable. We just finished cleaning it up and re-installed. It came out perfect, I'm anxious to get a new cable for it.
     
  26. Peter A. Nunes

    Peter A. Nunes Moderator
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    Wonderful! Were you able to save the original paint?
     
  27. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Yes, all the original paint and pinstriping is saved. The only spots that needed touching up were the tops of the legs and a few areas on the tower.
     
  28. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    countingWheel.jpg DSCN2813 (1280x750).jpg a comparison image and the assembly of the striking main wheel. Look Ma, no rust.
     
  29. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Thought you might enjoy seeing how long the chain is. 180Feet long and without a scale, I estimated it at 200lbs
    DSCN3136 (957x1280).jpg DSCN3138 (1280x960).jpg
     
  30. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    How are you enjoying your new "day job?"
     
  31. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    It's the most exciting job I've had. Each piece of this huge puzzle has been so rewarding, once it has been completed. From the gears, to the paint, and assembly.
    Testing the striking is my current project, I had to have the finger that counts the hours built up a bit, "too short". So now it counts for the first 7 hours perfectly. The last 5 need some adjustments, but that will be easy and probably fixed by this afternoon.
    The Chain is on it's way to the dip tanks for a soaking and lubrication. We'll put it on a spool and deliver it to the Musuem this summer.
    The dismantle and removal from my shop to the Musuem will probably happen in May.
    Then I've got to plan on it's location for display and set up the pulleys and weight drops.
    Anyone interested in a private tour, message me. The actual display will only be available for private tours until the building is finished. We are currently under construction at that location, so we won't be open to the public for a while.
     
  32. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Forgive my lack of knowing the proper terminology. I am a Watchmaker and haven't worked on clocks since 1977. But here is my first test of the Howard striking process.
    May you all enjoy.
    Brian
    http://youtu.be/Kg2olBhzMok
     
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  33. MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS

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    Burkhard,Thanks for posting I enjoyed your video. My neighbor was a teacher in Narraganset several years ago and loved the church bells on Sunday until one day they stopped. He claims that is why he enjoys my outside chime clock as it reminds him of his time there. I wonder if this is the clock he was hearing?

    George
     
  34. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    George, I see you are in WA. I am in MA. Our Narragansett is actually Templeton located in the north Central part of the state. This clock was heard in the northern part of our town called Baldwinville. Most people get us confused with Narragansett RI. Just to clear things up.
     
  35. MCCLINTOCK-LOOMIS

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    Yes they are from RI, thanks for clearing that up. Btw great restoration job. nice to see you were able to res-erect the old finish also.
    George
     
  36. maplelion

    maplelion New Member

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    Your restoration looks beautiful. I am not an expert and I may be confused but isn't this a model No. 31? What is it's serial number?
     
  37. gvasale

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    IRC the clock is a 2 size. Howard tried to obfuscate their products by not giving model numbers, as legend goes, but did make larger or smaller versions of a type. This goes for all of the clocks produced after they started making clocks with scupltured frames & cabriole legs.

    Clock featured in this thread is # 200.
     
  38. bptanguay

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    before and after. once I installed the cable wheel. What a difference elbow grease makes.
    beforeAftercableDrive.jpg
     
  39. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    I just picked up the chain for the strike weights. For fun we weighed it. 170 Lbs.
    DSCN3137 (1280x960).jpg
     
  40. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    just finished one of the main crank wheels. Painted to match, and added the black and gold striping. The last gear should be done this week.
    DSCN4148 (1024x768).jpg
     
  41. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Anyone interested in a private tour, message me on when you are coming to town and I'll take you to see the clock.
    It's in Templeton MA. Housed in the Museum of the Narragansett Historical Society.
     
  42. bptanguay

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    After 6 months of restoration work, after hours of course. I think I'm ready to move it to it's permanent display.
    DSCN4246 (1024x768).jpg
     
  43. Jim DuBois

    Jim DuBois Registered User
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    Nice work! Really looks nice.

    I have been intending to make a comment regarding the steel work on E Howard tower clocks when we rennovate them. Specifically I have been fortunate in having owned a couple of very original mechanisms that had never been "over cleaned". The steel work including arbors and the like were IME painted gloss black. Winding drums were painted gold. Strike levers were either frame paint or gloss black. The wheel spokes (inside edges) were painted either red or black. Here are a few detail shots showing original paint remnants.

    I have in the past used clear coat on the arbors, drums, and the like to prevent rust etc....but, more recently I started returning them to painted surfaces, I like them better that way....
     

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  44. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    Thanks Jim for the compliment.
    I noticed the painted format on other clocks, such as the one I care for in the First Church. I found no remains of paint on the arbors, inside wheels, etc. So I polished them and cleaned them to the best "original" condition. Some of the brass I gave a bright finish, only since now it will be viewed in a museum as opposed to in the tower. I did save over 90% of the original paint, the parts that lost the paint from pigeon poop got a fresh "antique" paint job. It took 5 different paints to come up with the best match, and that was just the green.
    I just hope everyone enjoys it.
     
  45. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    OK, now it's time to refinish the dial. Looks like steel with glass back. I have someone to replace the broken glass, but what do I do with the steel? I don't want to damage the glass. DSCN7136 (1024x666) (1024x666).jpg DSCN1202 (1024x768) (1024x768).jpg
     
  46. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
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    They look great when the numbers & minute markers have gold leaf applied. Black for the rest of it.
     
  47. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    So tonight I took the clock apart, packed it up in boxes, and prepare to move it to it's new home. Can't wait to see it set up in the Museum.
     
  48. bptanguay

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    For those that are close by, I am unveiling the clock in a presentation July 24th Wednesday night at our Historical Society, 1 Boynton St. Templeton MA. The public is invited. Thanks to all of you who helped guide me when I needed it. The clock came out FANTASTIC! I'm so proud to be a part of this historic restoration for my town.
     
  49. bptanguay

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    clockHome.jpg Center Stage ready for the show.
     
  50. bptanguay

    bptanguay Registered User

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    the show was a great success, filling the 2nd floor hall to standing room only. Here are my two sons who were very helpful through out the restoration and moving from shop to Museum. shownight.jpg
     

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