Replacing cable on grandfather

Darrmann39

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First time replacing a cable on grandfather clock. Pretty easy process but it's obviously been shortened. The other two are also slightly different when fully unwound. So my question is when fully unwound how far from the bottom should the weights drop. Or do they should they run out and touch the bottom.
Right now if they run out they stop about 10 to 15 inches from bottom of case.
 

bruce linde

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did you mean to post photos?

ideally, weights would come to a gentle stop when they hit the bottom of the case.... planning for an additional half inch drop would insure that. 10-15 inches short would mean you're almost certainly not getting a full 8-day run time.
 

Darrmann39

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did you mean to post photos?

ideally, weights would come to a gentle stop when they hit the bottom of the case.... planning for an additional half inch drop would insure that. 10-15 inches short would mean you're almost certainly not getting a full 8-day run time.
Thats what i thought about the being so far up.
So other clocks I've replaced cable or cat gut on slipped in and out a whole tire a knot and that's it. It's a Herschede and it's a bit different only one opening and can't seem to get it out. Should i think side towards wider opening and drop out. Not working

1620067836446560735214403333383.jpg
 

Willie X

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Yes it went in the wide opening and will come out. You may need to use pliers and a twisting motion. If it breaks and falls inside, that is not/knot a problem.

I go by the top, forget about the bottom. 3/4 to 1 turn on the drum to start and enough cable to comfortably fill the drum, with the weight pulley bumping the seat board. Sometimes you have to compromise but the weight should never have a chance to 'hang on the knot'. Adding a filler in the bottom of your case may be the only way to prevent this, when you have a longer case. Willie X
 
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Darrmann39

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i use braided nylon core, 1 or 1.2mm... i tie a stopper knot (Stopper Knot - How to tie a Stopper Knot) and seal the deal with a touch of crazy glue.
That darn weight on the right has to be 50 ilbs might be over a bit but it's damn heavy. You would trust braided nylon?
It's not mine so I'm going with what was in it. But just curious. I like the black nylon and have put it on a couple of my own wall clocks. Nothing as heavy as these weights tho
 

Darrmann39

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Yes it went in the wide opening and will come out. You may need to use pliers and a twisting motion. If it breaks and falls inside, that is not/knot a problem.

I go by the top, forget about the bottom. 3/4 to 1 turn on the drum to start and enough cable to comfortably fill the drum, with the weight pulley bumping the seat board. Sometimes you have to compromise but the weight should never have a chance to 'hang on the knot'. Adding a filler in the bottom of your case may be the only way to prevent this, when you have a longer case. Willie X
I'm now replacing all 3 since all were short especially the one so I'm curious how you secure the cord until you get it back on and weighted? Tape it to the seat board?
 

Willie X

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Use a small weight (about 4#). This makes a tough job easy. I think that right weight is around 22# on many.
Willie X
 
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Bruce Alexander

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D.mann

If you have cable of the right diameter, the room on the spool will determine how long your cable should be. It should be long enough to completely fill the spool without wrapping over itself. If the cable is too long and you wind the weights up to the seat board, they might foul causing the train to stall due to insufficient power.

Willie's right on the money for 5-tube movements. The Chime Weight is 22 pounds.


The chime weight is about 7 pounds heavier on a 9 tube movement. Not sure about the less common 7 tube clock. I've never seen, much less laid hands on one.

You could also ensure that the weight doesn't hang on the knot by placing cable that is too long for the spool but you then have to be careful not to "over wind" it. My mentor installed long cable when he overhauled our first 5-tube GF clock. I marked the "stop winding" points on the cable with a "permanent" marker. I've had to reapply the mark a couple of times. It seems to wear off of the brass fibers after a couple of years. I suppose you could apply a small piece of blue painter's masking tape on the back of the case, or something like that, but it would be there for a while.

Have fun.

Bruce
 
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shutterbug

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On modern clocks especially, if you reach the end of the cable before the weight hits the bottom, the cable can release from the drum and could potentially break the case bottom.
 
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Darrmann39

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If you have cable of the right diameter, the room on the spool will determine how long your cable should be. It should be long enough to completely fill the spool without wrapping over itself. If the cable is too long and you wind the weights up to the seat board, they might foul causing the train to stall due to insufficient power.

Willie's right on the money for 5-tube movements. The Chime Weight is 22 pounds.


The chime weight is about 7 pounds heavier on a 9 tube movement. Not sure about the less common 7 tube clock. I've never seen, much less laid hands on one.

You could also ensure that the weight doesn't hang on the knot by placing cable that is too long for the spool but you then have to be careful not to "over wind" it. My mentor installed long cable when he overhauled our first 5-tube GF clock. I marked the "stop winding" points on the cable with a "permanent" marker. I've had to reapply the mark a couple of times. It seems to wear off of the brass fibers after a couple of years. I suppose you could apply a small piece of blue painter's masking tape on the back of the case, or something like that, but it would be there for a while.

Have fun.

Bruce
Thanks it is a 9 tube
 

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