Punch/drill new dial

[Jasons34]

I just bought a 7" round dial from timesavers which I want to prep. It's roughly 1/32" thick steel that's painted. I wasn't planning on using grommets but if the end result is not up to snuff I have no other choice. I'm guessing it's not possible to punch these so I'm left with drilling. Would I use a step drill bit and drill to an undersized hole and reek it out using a grinding come stone with a Drexel to widen hole to size to prevent paint from chipping? Also what size hole should these be for the 3 winding arbors required?

 

[shutterbug]

You can get press/punch units that are pretty clean. They screw on, but I can't think of what they're called. Much cleaner than drilling though.

 

[Willie X]

It's all about the location. So, if you drill or punch, it's nearly always best to drill or punch an undersize hole, put the dial in place, and then mark (with a pencil) where you need to move that hole to the perfect location. If you are lucky and the arbor is exactly centered, you can easily enlarge it with a tapered reamer or the cone shaped stone you mention. If it's off center, you will need to resort to a file or a small cylinder shapped stone to get the hole to center. The finished size is usually 10mm, 3/8", or 7/16". I dont like grommets, but if you use them make sure that you size the hole for a snug to tight fit as they generally loosed with use. Don't get me wrong, some dials look better with gromets and many older clocks have really nice gromets and they are an important part of the dial.
Good luck, Willie X

 

[Kevin W.]

Jasons looking forward too seeing pics and progress, i have one i want to do on a Kienzle mantel clock some day.

 

[Jasons34]

This is a modern clock. It's the colonial molyneux with a jauch movement. I bought it for $32 at an antique shop. It was missing the dial and bezel though the holes are there as evidence one was once installed. The movement was obviously worked on but very poorly done. The chime sequence was all out of wake to where the warning lever wouldn't even drop. The strike mainspring was all gummed up. 3 chime hammers were broken off but inside the case. That setup was made to fail anyways. But getting back to the dial...... So drill a 1/4" hole to start and see how all 3 line up and then go from there? Is there a certain method to lining up the centers of the holes or is it done by simply measuring distance from handshaft to arbors? Also does it matter if you drill from back or front side?

 

[lpbp]

I usually make a template out of paper, or cardboard, then if you're off, no harm done.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Small Greenlee chassis punch.
Tinker Dwight

 

[tom427cid]

I use a step drill. They are available in different amounts between the steps and generally up to 3/8" .
Hope this helps.
tom

 

[R. Croswell]

This is a modern clock. It's the colonial molyneux with a jauch movement. I bought it for $32 at an antique shop. It was missing the dial and bezel though the holes are there as evidence one was once installed. The movement was obviously worked on but very poorly done. The chime sequence was all out of wake to where the warning lever wouldn't even drop. The strike mainspring was all gummed up. 3 chime hammers were broken off but inside the case. That setup was made to fail anyways. But getting back to the dial...... So drill a 1/4" hole to start and see how all 3 line up and then go from there? Is there a certain method to lining up the centers of the holes or is it done by simply measuring distance from handshaft to arbors? Also does it matter if you drill from back or front side?

I wouldn't start with a 1/4" drill in metal that thin. It will likely "grab" and rip a ragged hole and maybe even bend the dial. Step drill sounds like a good idea although I have never used one. At one time, miniature hole saw cutters - I think the company may have been Blair but not sure.

 

[Doug Osborne]

Start and finish to size using a step drill. It will not grab or damage the paint.

 

[Jasons34]

Special thanks to everyone. It worked well. Stupid me went and drilled from the back first but the hole was too small so I finished from the front. It turned out very well with no damage to paint. All holes lined up well as I used a cardboard as a template. I even notched out for the chime selector lever. Now I need to drill 4 holes around the edge so it can be mounted to the case. I purchased a bezel and glass along with the retaining clips, latch, and hinge. How do I mount the hinge? Underneath the dial or out to the side? Also should I have the hinge on the left side due to the chime selector lever on the right side?

 

[Jasons34]

The clock is completely finished. I think it looks ok but I was somewhat limited to what I could do. I don't have anything to brazen brass so I used jb weld. I can paint the visible hinge jb weld brass color so it's not noticeable.

 

[Kevin W.]

Its not a old clock so i like it, if it were a older clock maybe age the dial a bit to match age of clock, nice job done.

 

[Jasons34]

Thanks Kevin. The screws holding the dial to the case are steel though which I might change out for brass when I get ahold of brass screws. The latch I had to superglue to the back of the dial because jb weld would hold yet the hinge stayed fringe to the dial with jb weld. I wanted to use brass colored pop rivets on the hinge to bezel but there was no room on the bezel and the glass would also be in the way so I used jb weld. The retaining clips are also jb weld to the bezel. The holes for arbor and hand shaft got nice but the oblong hole for the chime selector lever could have been better

 

[Kevin W.]

For your first one you did well, be proud of your work.

 

[R. Croswell]

Thanks Kevin. The screws holding the dial to the case are steel though which I might change out for brass when I get ahold of brass screws. The latch I had to superglue to the back of the dial because jb weld would hold yet the hinge stayed fringe to the dial with jb weld. I wanted to use brass colored pop rivets on the hinge to bezel but there was no room on the bezel and the glass would also be in the way so I used jb weld. The retaining clips are also jb weld to the bezel. The holes for arbor and hand shaft got nice but the oblong hole for the chime selector lever could have been better

Looks like a decent little clock. Replacing missing parts like this can often present unexpected issues. JB-Weld is great stuff for some applications. Most of the small mantel clocks that I have seen do have the hinge on the left, although I do have one with the hinge on the right which may have been an earlier reversal. I've never given it much thought, the brass bezel doors on "schoolhouse" clocks and all the clock I have with wooden doors have the hinge on the right. Now my two round bulkhead clocks - one German and one English - have the hinge on the right. Strange

RC

 

[Jasons34]

iPad to dial or of work to this entire clock. I bought it at an antique shop for $33 total. When I brought it home it ran very well except it would not chime or strike. Here all the pins and levers were not aligned with each other so the warning stage never happened. I eventually got that fixed but then noticed that they were sluggish. Here the mainsprings were all gummed up from lack of being ran. I also had to fix 3 chime hammers which were snapped off. It just so happens I have a junk hermle movement which I used those hammer arms in replacement of the broken ones and used jb weld (hahaha). And then came the dial and bezel. It does look good but I'm a perfectionist so I want everything to be perfect. The clock runs very well now though. The movement is a jauch btw