Preventing rust on our steel tools

[bchaps]

Like most Clock/Watch repair people, I enjoy the feel, accuracy and results of fine tools. But what can be done to prevent rust from occurring due to body oils. I try to minimize the problem by regularly washing my hands while working with these steel tools, but the rust still returns. I have several watchmakers blocks, a larger polished hardened steel block, and a pair of 1-2-3 steel blocks used for bushing support. All must be regularly wire brushed to remove rust buildup. I just applied Johnson's Paste Wax to the 1-2-3 blocks to see how that works. Any suggestions? Thank You, Bill

When Fried and de Carle haven't discussed it, ask the NAWCC Message Board.

 

[bchaps]

Like most Clock/Watch repair people, I enjoy the feel, accuracy and results of fine tools. But what can be done to prevent rust from occurring due to body oils. I try to minimize the problem by regularly washing my hands while working with these steel tools, but the rust still returns. I have several watchmakers blocks, a larger polished hardened steel block, and a pair of 1-2-3 steel blocks used for bushing support. All must be regularly wire brushed to remove rust buildup. I just applied Johnson's Paste Wax to the 1-2-3 blocks to see how that works. Any suggestions? Thank You, Bill

When Fried and de Carle haven't discussed it, ask the NAWCC Message Board.

 

[Gnomon]

I use a shot, and a wipedown with WD40, and I have never had a rust problem. Of all of the uses people claim for WD40, this is the one that it was designed for.

-Chuck Harris

 

[watchluvr4ever]

There is an oil I use on some of my tools to prevent rust called Eezox. Look it up on the web, it is some great stuff and better than WD-40 IMHO. Shoot them an email using the contact button on their site and ask for a free sample, I'm sure they will be glad to send some to you. I am still using the "sample" bottle I've had for almost 3 years. BTW, I am in no way affiliated with Eezox, I just believe in the product they offer.

 

[4piet1]

hello bill, how is the climate in your workshop? is it not to moist. if your hands are to wet when working go to the drugstore they may have somthing to prevent wet hands.
geetings piet

 

[bchaps]

Temperature hovers around 72 degrees and R.H. is 63%. I'll try the WD40 and search for Eezox. But sorry Piet, since I'm healthy otherwise, I don't want to take any pills...(rarely take an aspirin).

Thanks for the suggestions, Bill

 

[Firegriff]

I use Gunslick gun oil wipe but I am just about out of them. each one will cover a lot of surface area.

 

[Max Phillips]

I run a dehumidifier in my workshop, and keep the humidity well below 60% (typically around 56%), and that alone helps a lot. Other than that, what everyone else said - wipe with a light oil. For small stuff I use WD-40, for larger items I sometimes wipe down with R&O hydraulic oil. With the humidity under control, and occasional oiling, I haven't seen surface rust at all.

 

[topspy]

I'm looking into a new product called Metal Rescue. Haven't tried it yet but their web site and various reviews look promising....

 

[RL]

You don't have to take a pill from the drug store.
They have boxes of latex and non latex gloves.
If the work it not to small-- the fit on the gloves allows pretty good feel.
For small jobs finger cots are available from the drug store also.
There are a lot of watch maker/repairers that use rubber finger cots for different applications.

 

[dAz57]

The best thing I found is to put the tools away, I invested in some mechanics tool cabinets and drawers, shallow drawers allows me to layout the tools, only put them on the bench when I need them then put away again, you can always throw some packets of silica gel in the drawers.

Another useful product is Inox don't know if you can get it there, comes in liquid and spray cans, doesn't dry out or go gummy like wd40, safe to use around food processing equipment.

 

[Allan Wolff]

Boeshield T-9. Buy the liquid form; the spray is rather expensive and it is the same stuff. Put a drop on whatever you want to protect and rub it in with your bare hands or a rag. Let it set for a few minutes and it will be dry to the touch; no oily residue like WD-40 so it does not collect dust. Smells great too.

 

[cazboy]

I'm with Gnomon and some others - WD40 is great for protecting our expensive tools from rust. As Gnomon says, WD40 is horrible for clock movements, it's excellent for displacing moisture (hence the name, WD = Water Dispersant). Another thing I like about it is that it wipes off the steel extremely easily and readily. At least to me, that fact alone makes it a bit easier to get into the habit of "fresh coat of WD40 every time I use this thing". I just sorta decided it would be a good habit, and lo & behold several years later (I'm still kind of a perpetual newbie), not a trace of rust anywhere!

 

[shimmystep]

As above, I wipe the tools of with oil before I put them away. I also buy anti-corrosion paper and put it in the tubs that contain things like , hand reamers, Lathe collets, pivot drills, lath accessories etc. It's inexpensive to buy and needs changing every few months but worth the while IMHO.

 

[Firegriff]

The biggest defense against rust is timely and proper maintenance of your tools !!!!

 

[Neuron]

There is a Birchwood-Casey product called Barricade used by gunsmiths. It doesn't gum up like WD40 and IMHO it is the best ferrous metal protectant available for watchmaker tools. Inexpensive and available in liquid and spray cans.

 

[Willie X]

Line the bottom of your tool boxes/trays with flannel cloth. Sprinkle a little 10W machine oil around on it. Keep another flannel rag in the toolbox, treated the same way. Wipe the tools off as you put them in the box. Throw the wipe cloth away when it gets dirty and make a new one. Tools will always be clean and they will never rust. Decent substitutes are 3 in 1 Oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, Mobil 1
5W-20, WD-40, etc. MMO smells the best ...

Willie X

 

[NutellaBear]

You can find some good ideas for dealing with corrosion on gun smithing forums. The problem I have with petroleum based products is that they leave an oily film on everything — which by forming a barrier to moisture and oxygen is how they prevent corrosion. But handling an oily tool while doing watch reassembly is problematic. Clocks no big deal I would think, but you don't want stray residue running around a watch movement.

I found a product called Militec-1 on gun forums which bills itself as a Synthetic Metal Conditioner for "dry impregnated lubrication". The theory behind it is that it bonds with metal at the molecular level. I clean a tool and wipe it down with Militec-1. I then warm the tool (~150°F) with a hair dryer to cause the metal to expand and bond with the lubricant. Then while still warm wipe down with some fresh lubricant. Let it sit awhile till cool then wipe off all the excess. You end up with a dry to the touch tool that will not corrode and leaves no residue on your fingers.

http://www.militec-1.com

 

[cazboy]

You can find some good ideas for dealing with corrosion on gun smithing forums. The problem I have with petroleum based products is that they leave an oily film on everything — which by forming a barrier to moisture and oxygen is how they prevent corrosion. But handling an oily tool while doing watch reassembly is problematic. Clocks no big deal I would think, but you don't want stray residue running around a watch movement.

I found a product called Militec-1 on gun forums which bills itself as a Synthetic Metal Conditioner for "dry impregnated lubrication". The theory behind it is that it bonds with metal at the molecular level. I clean a tool and wipe it down with Militec-1. I then warm the tool (~150°F) with a hair dryer to cause the metal to expand and bond with the lubricant. Then while still warm wipe down with some fresh lubricant. Let it sit awhile till cool then wipe off all the excess. You end up with a dry to the touch tool that will not corrode and leaves no residue on your fingers.

http://www.militec-1.com

That looks extremely interesting. I get a little suspicious anytime I hear about some new product that changes things "at the molecular level". But if the U.S. military uses it, I say it's worth a try. That would be great for our brethren who live in humid parts of the country - or abroad.
...Doug

 

[Firegriff]

There is a Birchwood-Casey product called Barricade used by gunsmiths. It doesn't gum up like WD40 and IMHO it is the best ferrous metal protectant available for watchmaker tools. Inexpensive and available in liquid and spray cans.

I purchased a spray can of this so far seems good, I spray some on a rag then wipe it on.

 

[Neuron]

I purchased a spray can of this so far seems good, I spray some on a rag then wipe it on.

You can also get the stuff in a can about the size of 3-in-1 oil. I am really pleased with the way Barricade works on tools. I used it to clean up a K-D Inverto staking set that was pretty tarnished and it made everything look like new.

 

[technitype]

I have had very good luck using what are called "rust blockers"- one type of these are small self-sticking chemically treated foam strips...I stick one of these inside each of the drawers where I keep my tools, and I have had no problems with rust.

Do a google search for "Bullfrog rust blocker"

 

[moe1942]

Like most Clock/Watch repair people, I enjoy the feel, accuracy and results of fine tools. But what can be done to prevent rust from occurring due to body oils. I try to minimize the problem by regularly washing my hands while working with these steel tools, but the rust still returns. I have several watchmakers blocks, a larger polished hardened steel block, and a pair of 1-2-3 steel blocks used for bushing support. All must be regularly wire brushed to remove rust buildup. I just applied Johnson's Paste Wax to the 1-2-3 blocks to see how that works. Any suggestions? Thank You, Bill

When Fried and de Carle haven't discussed it, ask the NAWCC Message Board.

Fluid Film in spray can..