Re: adjustable pallet escapement
Just how "not too difficult?" It would definitely be a useful skill.
Just how "not too difficult?" It would definitely be a useful skill.
I hope this is sufficient, since the clock is currently apart; if not then I will post again when all is repaired and running. The running part is hopeful.WGA, I'll answer your question about adjustable pallets in my next post. First, however, I would like to ask if you would post photos of your clock here so we can document it for our W. Würth & Co. database. I believe you meant to type in Plate 1009AA (there is no 1099AA), and that backplate has been positively identified to be made by Würth & Co. My data indicate it was probably made about 1907, a bit later than shown in the Repair Guide. The serial number of your clock is only 17 digits later than the plate shown there. I'm guessing the clock is likely a 4-glass crystal regulator style or one of the other fancy case Bowler & Burdick cases. I will look forward to seeing the photos.
Sounds feasible, but I think I would need to tool up, to have a supply of old wheels of many types, and practice before I ever got it right. For as often as I need it, which if I do what I did last time may be more than I am thinking, it would probably better to leave it to people with more skills than I. I do envy your ability.The easiest way is if you have a scrap box of old clock wheels, and find one with the same size and profile of tooth, you can splice a patch into your wheel using a piece of the scrap wheel. Using a keystone shape, it will be as strong as it originally was. A little solder will lock it in. Without a donor wheel, the process is similar, but you will have to file a tooth on the patch to match the other teeth on the wheel. A jewelers saw and a steady hand is needed for the cutting, and small files for the finishing.
There are obviously more informed people than I on this forum, but if I had to guess the advantage is to the manufacturer. It would allow lower tolerances on precision and it could be made up for by adjusting the pallets. However, for anyone else, it is just something else that could introduce a problem. Or maybe the one part could be adjusted and used on diffreent clocks?What are the advantages of adjustable pallet escapement in comparison with fixed pallet escapement? There must be a reason some many companies used adjustable pallet escapement in their clocks.
Ming
Thank you for your explaination. Indeed, the adjust pallet anchor can make clock run more precisely if adjusted correctly. I wonder if the manufacturer adjusted the pallet on each clock after assembly. If they only adjusted them with a predetermined length before the assembling, then why not used fixed pallet anchor. Could it be a repairer friendly feature for later service?There are obviously more informed people than I on this forum, but if I had to guess the advantage is to the manufacturer. It would allow lower tolerances on precision and it could be made up for by adjusting the pallets. However, for anyone else, it is just something else that could introduce a problem. Or maybe the one part could be adjusted and used on diffreent clocks?
Actually, replaced another gear, which I messed up trying to repair, and bent the teeth back to position successfully on the main barrel and other gears. On your work, I would GUESS at the 3 o'clock position? Even if that is correct, which I honestly am not sure about, I had to really stare at it for some time and again, I am guessing. The short story would be: Wow! nice work!It's good that you have it running. Repairing mainspring barrels in these exposed movements should be done in such a way that the repair doesn't show. You've solved that by replacing rather than repairing. However, in an instance when a replacement barrel cannot be found, an invisible repair can be done. I have enclosed an image of a barrel that I repaired as a project, a number of years ago. It was a scrap barrel that I took three teeth out of. The procedure I used was much as described by Harold Bain, earlier on. I have used the same technique in repairing the barrels of many crystal regulator and 400-day clocks over the years since then. Plus any other, less exposed barrels that I have repaired. I have posted this image on the clock repair board before, and one poster was actually able to identify where I repaired it. Care to try?
I have a tendency to forget to wind 'em after reassembly, they don't run long![]()
I had tried a number of the things you suggested, but this is a great list that I think I will copy out for future reference! You are right about the mainspring coming loose, when I first got this clock a few years back, it was the first clock I ever took apart and I found the mainspring was loose and reattached it. I had tried running it at only three clicks when I first reassembled it a couple of days ago with the new gear without the escapement and it seemed to run okay. Checked gears and pivots. Today, however, exactly what you told me to check actually happened. I moved the anchor out of the way when it had stopped and it was extremely sluggish. To make a long story short, or is that too late?, I opened up the mainspring cover, because I could think of nothing else, and I think I found my problem. I thought I had replaced the mainspring a long time ago, when I was first tryig to fix this; apparently I was wrong. It does not look round (I don't know how else to explain it) at the central portion. Maybe this would account for the small rotation, too? Anyhow, I feel pretty stupid, but another mistake to learn from. I am just about to order a spring from TImesavers. Maybe one day I will see this clock run again. Thanks for the help.Consdering the bent teeth in the mainspring barrel, and other damaged gears as well, the mainspring had either broken or come unhooked, or the clock had experienced an accident duting winding some time in the past. This can cause the barrel to bulge at the hook in the barrel wall. If this has happened, and if it is bad enough, the bulge could be catching on the arbor of the second wheel. At any time, have you checked for bent pivots? Have you tried running the clock with the dial train off? On occasion, there can be problems with the cannon pinion tension spring being incorrect, and dragging on the front plate. After the clock stops, and upon attempting to start it again, does the escape wheel advance, or does it remain where it is? There might be a sign of binding in the train, somewhere. I have found that letting the power down and removing the anchor, then winding the spring just enough to get the train turning, can assist in identifying problems in the train.
Thanks for the help with the tension washers, Doug. I let the clock run all night long without the hands and gears to that train. I read your post and this one has the second type you described, but there is only the one football shaped washer. I tried to find a way to assemble it without the washer touching the plate, but I can not find a way. It will only fit on one end of the pinion or the other, due to size. So, I followed the directions about pointing the curve to the outside and reassembled. It has been running for 5.5 hours now! ALthough it is nothing to brag about, I am getting about 150 degrees of rotation. It is an improvement from earlier; all things considered, it has been a good day!There are at least two common tension spring arrangements that I can recall. The one has the bottom end of the cannon pinion counter bored, and a coil spring fits up inside the cannon pinon. The bottom end sits on the shoulder of the centre wheel arbor (NOT on the front plate). The other type should have two washers. On, just a regulat flat washer, and the other, a curved football shape washer. On this type of clock, the curved washer goes on the centre wheel arbor first, with the cupped side facing OUT. The flat washer then goes on, then the cannon pinion. When you screw on the hand retaining nut, or press the hands down and fit a tapered pin theough a transverse hole in the centre arbor, that is when the tension from the curved spring occurs. None of these components should touch the front plate!
It is running now and I hate to mess with it. However, I definitely will be back here when it stops. I do not have the flat washer, but from the way things looked with this clock, it has been messed with, so it could have been lost a long time ago. I know I kept all the parts and had none left over when it was reassembledThese came from the factory with a plain steel washer slightly larger in diameter than the pinion, and slightly larger that the major dimension of the cupped tension spring. The hole in the tension spring is smaller than the shoulder of the centre arbor so that the cupped washer sits on that shoulder without touching the plate The tips of the cupped washer bear on the steel washer which in turn bears on the bottom of the pinion. When the hands are put on and the cupped brass washer fitted on in front of the minute hand, the thumb screw is turned on and tightened. As this happens, the cannon pinion compresses the football shaped washer, and that is how the cannon pinion gets its friction. NOTHING must touch the front plate!
Attached are pictures of the pendulum with my Kienzle. As you see it is somewhat different. The height of the spindle holding the gallery is 21 mm from the disk top to the gallery. I am inclined to speculate that your movement maybe a late Wilhelm Wurth with the addition of the inspection holes for the pallets. The solid disk of the pendulum also does not seem typical of Kienzle, they rarely had additional steel washers. The weight of my Kienzle pendulum is 382 gm. Hope that info helpsAs if I didn't have enough projects awaiting my attention... Unfortunately, I'm a sucker for these poor clocks that need help.
Anyway, I'm thinking this is a Kienzle with Plate 1427 and the No. 14 gimbaled suspension. I'd appreciate a concurrence or a correction from you experts.
But I also need help with details about the missing parts of the pendulum. Like how much space to allow between the gallery and the top of the disc? I've heard that there should be several thin steel washers in the hollow space of the disc - but how many, and what total weight? Pictures of a complete assembly and/or measurements would be greatly appreciated.
Also, any idea on date of manufacture? And should there be spacers/capitals on the tops of the two support columns?
Thanks!
Thanks Dutch,No help for you Les but you do get some interesting clocks. This one is a beauty to my eyes.
Pictures of the case as requestedLes -
A lovely clock - an onyxpected pleasure - and any clock with Pendulum # 20 gets my heart beating slightly faster. I don't know that there's much you can do about the onyx, other than perhaps determine of the glue used for the repair is removable with acetone or water, allowing you to redo the repair. An antique conservationist could probably work wonders with epoxy, hand-tinted to match the surrounding stone, but I imagine it would be extremely expensive.
I was able to greatly improve the onyx top of my JUF by removing the seemingly endless cello tape and residue (the shipper thought it would protect the entirely unattached top - a pity he didn't think about the movement as well) with acetone, then giving it a good going over with marble polish.
As for the celluloid on paper dial, I find it surprising they would use it in an up-market clock. I see there are the tiny cut-outs at the sides for the mounting screws (as with my JUF), but the dial doesn't look as if it's a proper fit to the bezel, so perhaps it's an aftermarket replacement for a enamel on copper dial (which may have suffered a similar fate to mine, if the rest of the clock shows evidence of damage.
It appears the base is composed of two pieces- is there a brass base underneath, and could you post a photos of the underside, showing the mounting screw locations? My JUF is lacking the base, which would have been attached by two screws, left and right. I don't think mine had any but a brass base, per the 1910 catalog, but obviously there was some overlap in the French cases used by different clock companies.
Best,
Mark
Acetone is slowly eating its way through the epoxy. Couple of days time will see new repair attempt with clear epoxy and pigment.Les -
A lovely clock - an onyxpected pleasure - and any clock with Pendulum # 20 gets my heart beating slightly faster. I don't know that there's much you can do about the onyx, other than perhaps determine of the glue used for the repair is removable with acetone or water, allowing you to redo the repair. An antique conservationist could probably work wonders with epoxy, hand-tinted to match the surrounding stone, but I imagine it would be extremely expensive.
I was able to greatly improve the onyx top of my JUF by removing the seemingly endless cello tape and residue (the shipper thought it would protect the entirely unattached top - a pity he didn't think about the movement as well) with acetone, then giving it a good going over with marble polish.
As for the celluloid on paper dial, I find it surprising they would use it in an up-market clock. I see there are the tiny cut-outs at the sides for the mounting screws (as with my JUF), but the dial doesn't look as if it's a proper fit to the bezel, so perhaps it's an aftermarket replacement for a enamel on copper dial (which may have suffered a similar fate to mine, if the rest of the clock shows evidence of damage.
It appears the base is composed of two pieces- is there a brass base underneath, and could you post a photos of the underside, showing the mounting screw locations? My JUF is lacking the base, which would have been attached by two screws, left and right. I don't think mine had any but a brass base, per the 1910 catalog, but obviously there was some overlap in the French cases used by different clock companies.
Best,
Mark
The original repair has a very substantial right angled cross brace. I will probably replicate it, have little choice.I was thinking Les if you drilled and inserted a metal pin at each side of the centre dome, it might add a bit of extra strength, and help bind the two halves together.
Ivan.
Les,I think the dial is original, http://www.any400day.com/ has a similar clock picture in his web list, with a slightly more elaborate case. If he picks up on this, I would appreciate his comments.
This was an experienced Ebay seller, we have traded both ways before. It was in a double wall box, top half packed to perfection with bubble wrap and foam blocks, but the base had only slight bubble wrap packing and right up against the box wall. Must have had something heavy dropped on it or thrown from great height to damage, miracle the dome survived.Les, you are going to have to start giving shipping instructions to your clock suppliers.
I would sooner pay extra for proper shipping than have a damaged clock like you seem to be getting. Lucky the dome was protected.
OUCH!! Not an easy one to repair, either. Even though the base center is removable, the outer spun brass ring is (if I recall correctly) crimped to the steel base support where the feet are fixed. Not easy to get to that at all.Just had this one delivered today, another classic case of how not to pack a clock. Dome and inside fine, base not protected and badly dinged.
It's actually Plate 1427 minus the "Made in Germany" stamp. Note that plate has two threaded holes for the ring guards as fitted to your clock, that is characteristic for most Würth clocks thus far documented although there are some later ones with the Kienzle arrangement. Kienzle clocks have only one screw plus a pin.I guess this is plate 1613 but plus inspection holes and the suspension ring holes.
I believe this is the normal configuration for the "C" suspension used by Würth and Kienzle. You had Kienzle serial number 101052 at one time, the photos in my file show the type "C" two-part bracket with the mounting part screwed to the upright bracket. Just to check, I did a random search in my Kienzle files and found all of the type "C" brackets where I could see the part line or mounting screws to be made that way right to the end of Kienzle production.Also unusual is the Kienzle type C suspension. The suspension bracket is actually made of two parts. The suspension mount bracket is screwed to the upright bracket.
The pendulum is also somewhat unusual, having deep small diameter counterweights.
This is the No. 13 pendulum shown in the Repair Guide to have been for Kienzle. My data in fact show this pendulum was first used by Würth from about 1907, then to have first appeared on Kienzle clocks only about 1911. The information we have right now indicates Würth ceased making 400-Day clocks about that same time, so it appears Kienzle picked up the design then and continued to use it at least to the mid-1920's.I guess the pendulum is type 13 in the guide. So I also presume, assuming this is a Wurth, that there was considerable collaboration between the two companies(Kienzle & Wurth) at some time.
Mun, thanks very much for posting this clock. Your earlier clock was made for Bowler & Burdick, with Plate 1009AA having the "Anniversary Trade Mark Registered" stamp. This clock has Plate 1438 and was made in early 1906 at the same time as your earlier one. All should note that the two back plate designs are identical except for the stampings.Hi John,
I'm adding a few pictures for your database of a W Wurth in a brass 4-glass case that belongs to a friend of mine.
The clock has a round movement with serial number 7606 which is only 8 units later than the one I posted in this thread sometime ago. I also atttach a back plate picture of that clock for comparision.
Mun C.W.