Anetta, you also have a Schlenker & Posner with Plate 1529A, the same movement as found with the Patch's clock. Yours was made in 1932 based on the serial number 22321; it also has the original SuP 4-Ball pendulum No. 37. I mentioned earlier that many of these Louvre (bandstand) clocks had the pendulum balls lacquered in the same color as the dial and fittings for the pillars, yours is a perfect example of what I was trying to describe.
Patch, good to see you have a correct suspension guard to put on your clock. Regarding the finial you mention, there is not supposed to be a finial above the dial on these clocks(?), have a look at Anetta's clock and you can see the only finials present are above each of the pillars.
Eric, you are correct. I've dug into my photo archives and actual clocks, and this pendulum "looks like" pendulum No. 33 but in fact is a pendulum No. 37 that has had the center finial replaced with a twist rod that looks very similar to the Kienzle No. 33. Here are side-by-side photos showing the differences:
Burkhard, thanks for posting. I presume this is the one that presently has a Kundo base that you will be swapping with the other marriage SuP base having a Kundo movement. Based on the serial number this clock was made about mid-1933.
Kamil, thanks for posting your SuP. Based on the serial number it was made about the July-September quarter of 1931. The most unusual feature is the tortoise shell finished dial with a floral lattice design in the center. Is it faux (celluloid) or real tortoise shell?
This clock is identical to yours except for the base which was one I have not seen before, with multiple convex ribs around the circumference. I notice the center design of the dial for this clock is "brighter" than yours but don't know what if anything was done to bring out the colors. Does the design on yours appear to have any gold lacquer or some other kind of opaque finish? I would use Rub'nBuff to bring out the design if it were my clock.
Burkhard, you now have all the right stuff together and I am confident it will be a "like new" and stunning complete SuP when you are finished. Be sure to post photos!
Kamil, the only two "plastics" available in the years up to about 1935 were celluloid and Bakelite. Celluloid was in commercial use from the 1870's and Bakelite from 1910.
PLEASE NOTE THE CORRECTIONS MADE TO SUSPENSION SPRING STRENGTH.
| Pl._1317___0.0035"__0.089mm_CORRECT |
| Pl._1472H__0.0032"__0.081mm_should_be_0.0035" |
| Pl._1490___0.0035"__0.089mm_CORRECT |
| Pl._1505___0.0040"__0.102mm_should_be_0.0035" |
| Pl._1529___0.0032"__0.081mm_should_be_0.0035" |
| Pl._1559___0.0032"__0.081mm_should_be_0.0035" |
With the lighter weight pendulum you should use the 0.081 mm spring. I would be interested to compare what is inside the balls of your pendulum with what Ive found in the "normal" SuP pendulum. If you have another SuP that weighs about what I have reported, you can take the two apart and show us what you find. I'll do the same for comparing the ball weights for a SuP and Kundo pendulum and show that here as well.
ivots of SuP are much thinner than KundO,so it retained the old butchered anchor with soft solder purred over it when a new (brass) anchor pin was soldered in.One palet needed adjustment and than it should have run!But it didn't! Finaly found a couple of bent teeth on the great center wheel:truly this clock has had a hard life before! I examined the wheel with a 10power loupe and found several bent teeth,some tips of others looked as if they were filed from sideways...It took me more than one hour to straighten the teeth with the blade of a small pointed skrew driver.After I did what I could I reassebled the mvmt. without the anchor and let it run through several times with the mainspring wound about a quarter of its power in the (vain) hope that the T3 pinion would do the rest of smoothing the gear.Than put everything together,set beat and now she's working for several hours.Rotation is about 220° with good overswing.Press Your thumbs!
Pat, thanks for posting the photos of your "new" Schlenker & Posner clock and your questions about it. As already noted, there are no Schlenker & Posner (SuP) back plates identified as such in the Repair Guide, not even the one that is stamped with their logo (Plate 1472H) or their name (Plate 1505). In fact there are six plates in the RG that were made by SuP, as follows:
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
Hi all,
I have almost finished restoring this Schlenker & Posner clock but have been unable to find the correct pendulum for it, I think it needs a no.37 like this.
I have decided to give the clock to a friend for Christmas and have a pendulum that runs the correct time but would prefer if it had the right one.
Do any of you know of somewhere in the UK I might find one? or have a spare they would be willing to swap for a spare Badische 5 ball
pendulum like this that I picked up to try
any help finding the correct pendulum would be great
Thanks Steve
I think I might have one. It'll be ~7 hours till I'm off work and can check.Hi all,
I have almost finished restoring this Schlenker & Posner clock but have been unable to find the correct pendulum for it, I think it needs a no.37 like this.
I have decided to give the clock to a friend for Christmas and have a pendulum that runs the correct time but would prefer if it had the right one.
Do any of you know of somewhere in the UK I might find one? or have a spare they would be willing to swap for a spare Badische 5 ball
pendulum like this that I picked up to try
any help finding the correct pendulum would be great
Thanks Steve
