Post Your Comtoise (Morbier/Morez) Clocks Here

Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by Richard T., Jan 28, 2010.

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  1. RemoteOrigin

    RemoteOrigin New Member

    Sep 25, 2013
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    Hi - I have just found your very interesting forum.

    Here is our clock - does anyone have any idea roughly how old it may be please?

    It is not in any restored condition and the case has had wood worm and mould at some point in it's life. It keeps time spot on though.

    Many thanks!
     
  2. RemoteOrigin

    RemoteOrigin New Member

    Sep 25, 2013
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    Here are the weights...
     
  3. laumeg

    laumeg Registered User

    Jan 22, 2011
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    Hi, Nice clock, thanks for posting it. I would put a date of about 1860 for the clock. The clock has a mixture of elements some pointing to earlier time and others a later date. This does not mean it is a marrage. It just means that when put togeter the maker used parts of various ages. The style of weights and the wooden winding barrels point to earlier date, even as early as 1800. The case style would date closer to 1840-50. The face with flower fonton and pendulum would place it 1860 or later. The clock fits right at a time when style and mechanics were changing. The main change was the move from the verge escapement to the anchor escapement. This allowed for the use of a larger pendulum. The stamped brass flower fronton and pendulum came into use in 1860-65, and changes is case style accomodated the larger pendulums. Charles
     
  4. RemoteOrigin

    RemoteOrigin New Member

    Sep 25, 2013
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    Many thanks Charles, that's really interesting. I'm much obliged to you.
    I have ordered several books, The Comtoise Morbier Dictionary (by Leonard Van Veldhoven) and Comtoise (by David Holmes) so I am hoping to learn a bit more. We have not had the clock long, we found it at the back of an antique shop in our local village, covered in dust and mould - unwound and unloved!
    It had come from a house clearence many years before apparently. The 'location' on the lower part of the dial is Sées which is in Normandy, France.

    David
     
  5. gerene

    gerene Registered User

    Sep 9, 2010
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    The location only indicates the name and place of the seller of the clock. They where made in Franche-comté region in the French Jura.
    Nice clock!


    Jan
     
  6. laumeg

    laumeg Registered User

    Jan 22, 2011
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    Hi again, Its hard to describe everything at once, so will go a little at a time. There are some anomalies (spelling ?) that do not fit with your description of being kinda abandoned in the back room. Someone has done some work on it. The movement looks untouched. Its quite dirty, the winding cords or old and possibly the original. (You can't replace these without taking the movement apart.) The outside of the case shows alot of weathering which would be expected. However, the inside of the case looks extremely clean. The face and brass pendulum and front look like they have been worked on, too clean. These brass items were usually painted. I suspect that someone stripped the paint and then pollished out the brass, this is not uncommon when they have been weathered badly. These clock movements are very hardy so it would not be much to get it up and running. It overall looks in good shape. Be careful about what you do with the outside of the case. They have painted on finishes and the flower designs were painted. If you strip the case you will loose this. Alot of times this is done and then have the case repainted. I choose not to do this with my clocks. I keep them as original as possible. charles
     
  7. RemoteOrigin

    RemoteOrigin New Member

    Sep 25, 2013
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    Hi Charles,

    Thanks for the update. One of things I noticed was that there is a blob of gold paint on part of the case (under the V numeral in the photo), so at some time someone has painted the brass without removing it from the case. I suspect that as you say - someone has worked on it in the past and it's always easy to stage a cluttered antique shop to make you think you have found something that was overlooked!
    I used a soft fine brush to get rid of the dust. Other than that I wiped off the mold on the case and applied a light coat of Bees Wax. The glass from the small window in the bottom is missing (assuming it had glass when original), so I was going to replace that with a new piece but I haven't done anything else to it and we were planning on leaving it as it was.

    David

    David
     
  8. gerene

    gerene Registered User

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    Here are some pics of another comtoise I recently acquired and restored.

    IMG_2828.JPG IMG_2830.JPG IMG_2831.JPG IMG_2832.jpg IMG_2833.jpg IMG_2703.jpg IMG_2734.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  9. laumeg

    laumeg Registered User

    Jan 22, 2011
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    He gerene, Nice clock, did a nice restoration. Did you do the work or have someone to do it for you. I notice that you added an extension at the top of the pendulum. Could you not adjust the pendulum longer? How many other comtoise do you have? If I were to date yours I would think about 1900. Charles
     
  10. gerene

    gerene Registered User

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    Thanks for your comments, I did do the work myself. I agree with your estimate for the date, the oval front places it after 1860.
    I did not add an extension to the pendulum, I did not change anything to it. Do you think this is not original? I will try to find out if the pendulum has been modified by some later restoration. At first glance I don't see any indications of modifications.

    I do have one other comtoise which I restored. You can find pictures of it in this thread (early september of this year).

    I also have one project waiting, an earlier comtoise with cast brass headpiece showing a rooster looking over his shoulder and two hands. My estimate for dating this one is around 1790-1810. I will show pictures when I start working on it, but that might take a while ;).

    Jan
     
  11. laumeg

    laumeg Registered User

    Jan 22, 2011
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    Hi gerene, Looking further at the pendulum, I think my comment was due to optical issues. There just seemed to be a long length between the top of the pendulum and where it hooks below the clock. I don't see the rod extend below the pendulum so it is probably extended low leaving more rod extending from the top. I also see that your other clock is posted at the top of this page. I remember that. You can see 2 of my early clocks shown on page 8.
    Regarding the ovel front, maybe others can give some light on this. I read somewhere, don't know where, that the ovels were cut from square fronts. It seemed that the fronts were stamped in square and then shaped by cutting them to fit the application. It seems that both your ovals appear to have this quality, ie the ovel edge come right up to the heads of the angels and other designs. I would think that the artist who would have done the design work would have had a larger space between the art and the edge. Anyone know more about this. I posted 2 of my square faces and this seems a possabiblity. Charles
     

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  12. laumeg

    laumeg Registered User

    Jan 22, 2011
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    Hi gerene, Looking further at the pendulum, I think my comment was due to optical issues. There just seemed to be a long length between the top of the pendulum and where it hooks below the clock. I don't see the rod extend below the pendulum so it is probably extended low leaving more rod extending from the top. I also see that your other clock is posted at the top of this page. I remember that. You can see 2 of my early clocks shown on page 8.
    Regarding the ovel front, maybe others can give some light on this. I read somewhere, don't know where, that the ovels were cut from square fronts. It seemed that the fronts were stamped in square and then shaped by cutting them to fit the application. It seems that both your ovals appear to have this quality, ie the ovel edge come right up to the heads of the angels and other designs. I would think that the artist who would have done the design work would have had a larger space between the art and the edge. Anyone know more about this. I posted one of mine which shows how this can be a possability. I have a 2nd and will try to get a good picture of it. Charles
     

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  13. gerene

    gerene Registered User

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    Charles,

    you are probably right about the oval front. I do have a small book titled "comtoiseklokken" written in Dutch by Ton Bollen in 1974. In that book he states also that the stamped fronts used with the brass embossed pendulums were delivered square, but allowed for the corners to be cut to form an oval front.
     
  14. Mike306p/Ansoniaman

    Mike306p/Ansoniaman Registered User

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    Good job Jan on your restoring efforts.Thanks for posting the photos of your clock. I always like looking at these type clocks. One of my favorites. Mike
     
  15. Dave T

    Dave T Registered User
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    My latest addition:
    I just got it assembled and running today. But so far, no strike, just time only. Will have to find out why it does not strike. I'm also curious about the case. It looks to me to be a much later addition?
    Comtoise Eds crown wheel2.jpg Comtoise Eds crown wheel4.jpg Comtoise Eds crown wheel6.jpg
     
  16. onisama

    onisama Registered User

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    Hello, I don't know much about Comtoise. From second page of this thread by Burkhard Rasch, this's one from my collection.

    Yot
    10515109_983413541686340_7028849434894543162_o-2.jpg 10891887_983414005019627_5671746428727302085_n.jpg 10308383_983413988352962_2722601793625537347_n.jpg 10869456_983414051686289_5959128942399835583_o.jpg
     
  17. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    #167 Burkhard Rasch, Jan 1, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2017
    lovely,stylish case-is it solid wallnut?- and a movement which will outlast a couple of others!IMO a verry desirable clock,Congrats!It needs a strong hook in the wall,it's a real heavy!
    Burkhard
     
  18. onisama

    onisama Registered User

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    Thank you.
    The case is not 100% solid wood however i is very heavy compare to general German westminster clock.
     
  19. Dave T

    Dave T Registered User
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    Lovely clock! I like that oval door glass.
     
  20. Simon0362

    Simon0362 New Member

    Aug 12, 2012
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    Hi All,
    I have just bought this Comptoise clock from a local 'Vide Grenier' (car boot sale) in the condition as shown in the photos.

    DSC00265 small.jpg DSC00267 small.jpg DSC00268 small.jpg DSC00269 small.jpg DSC00270 small.jpg DSC00271 small.jpg DSC00272 small.jpg DSC00275 small.jpg

    I have since dismantled it, cleaned it (including the extremely tenacious lacquer-like covering on all of the steelwork), re-assembled it and it now happily runs without a proper pendulum - However.....I am not sure what the real pendulum looks like, nor how it should attach:
    It has a single hole in the face of the rod at exactly the point that it passes through the slot in the frame meaning that anything with a pin longer than about 6mm fouls the slot. My casual attempts to attach extensions to bring the frequency down from the roughly 3x it currently runs at have been very unsuccessful.

    So....:
    What does a 'real' pendulum look like in terms of size, weight and overall length (I assume combined with the internal part)?, and;
    How does it attach to the internal part?

    The mechanism is an anchor escapement I believe (just learning most of this, so stand to be corrected!) and is clearly missing some parts on the left hand side of the case which I believe are from an alarm option - I have a few hazy photos but I have no idea what it would really look like, nor how it worked.
    The dial is in superb condition although the pressed brasswork has suffered a few dings. Not sure how I will eventually finish it since I see that the general finish is highly polished but the thought of trying that on this painfully thin sheet leaves me with concern. The intention is to mount it on a wall bracket in my workshop.
     
  21. Sooth

    Sooth Registered User
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    #171 Sooth, May 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2017
    Since someone posted a new thread here, it reminded me that I should share the two Comtoise clocks that I recently purchased (early 2015), after having badly wanted one for over 6 years. I actually lost a bidding war at a local auction for a beautiful cased comtoise with polychrome painted decorations to the dial and pressed pendulum, and this finally gave me the push to actively look for one to purchase.

    The first one is the "Sun King" one by Radet père à Luzy (Luzy being a lovely little French village). This one came over directly from France at a reasonable price, and it included the original weights and key, and a later (matching) pendulum which is unfortunately about 4" too short. I was particularly drawn to this one because of its condition and the fact that it was an earlier crown wheel type.

    Both these clocks needed several complicated repairs, all of which can be seen in the accompanying posts on my blog (links below).

    Before:

    P2140613.jpg

    P2140615.jpg

    After:

    P3010162.jpg

    P3010140.jpg

    The second Comtoise is the "Angels" Comtoise, marked Gaspard Decloitre à St-Martin d'estreaux (St-Martin d'estréaux being another small French village) and I bought this one from a seller in Brooklyn NY (over the web). It was in absolutely FILTHY condition. This is probably one of the filthiest movements I have ever serviced. I have no idea what was used on the clock, but there was a black tar-scented residue on all the internal parts, and after ammonia cleaning, all the parts also required a scrubbing in lacquer thinner to remove the rest of the black residue. This clock unfortunately did not come with any of its other parts (no key, no pendulum, no weights, and no weight lines or hooks). I assume this one had a pressed pendulum or a lyre pendulum, since it's a later anchor escapement clock.

    Before:

    P3010112.jpg

    P3010136.jpg

    After:

    P4140577.jpg

    P4140590.jpg

    The links to additional photos and all the repairs for both clocks are here:

    Sun King Comtoise:
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/03/comtoise-clock-restoration-part-1.html
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/03/comtoise-clock-restoration-part-2.html
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/03/comtoise-clock-restoration-part-3.html

    Angels Comtoise:
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/03/angels-comtoise-part-1-before.html
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/03/angels-comtoise-part-2-repairs.html
    http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/04/angels-comtoise-part-3-finished-clock.html
     
  22. Sooth

    Sooth Registered User
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    These two photos show the size difference between both clocks. The earlier (smaller) one is about 10x16, while the later one is 11x19.

    P3130266.jpg

    P3130267.jpg

    Side note: I beliece that the back panel on the smaller clock is a later replacement, since the original doors are flat. All the other Comtoise clocks I have seen with flat doors also have a flat back.
     
  23. paddy2042

    paddy2042 Registered User

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    I decided to make a stand for one of my Morbiers for something a little different. I modelled it after the idea of a movement stand and I am quite pleased with the result, although it is my no means a masterpiece. My woodworking skills and lack of workshop make it difficult to do anything with precision. I know this is not a traditional stand but I like the lightness of it compared to a full tall case.

    Patrick

    306671.jpg
     
  24. Dave T

    Dave T Registered User
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    Nice work. The detailed documentation is great for someone who wants to tackle one of these. I know what you mean about the fragile dial. Had the same problem with the torn out screw holes. Your approach was much better than mine. I used a washer to take up the slack.
     
  25. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    This is my first post in this group. I have become an admirer er of Morbier,. Comtoise clocks. I bought this, my first one, three years ago in Denver, CO and transported it home in our Amtrak sleeping car compartment. I have recently "gone over" it, cleaning and oiling. The condition of the clock was fantastic. No rust and clean parts. I did have to adjust the pallets, and close up the square holes in the hands to make them fit tightly to the spindles. I do believe that the clock and pendulum are mismatched, as are many. I can't prove it, however. The scene is of a French Navy officer coming home to his wife and dog. The clock is keeping accurate time, gaining about one minute per week. I paid $200 for the clock. I believe it dates to the time when the parts were being made in a factory setting, by mechanized machinery and not in farmers' homes. While there is nothing unusual about this clock, I do love it. The calendar function is neat. I have since purchased two other Morbier clocks and as I work on them, I will post pics.

    098E49B0-5E89-423F-BB76-9C51C5C2429E.jpeg 1C6BD691-038A-464E-B839-B0FCC0B86A89.jpeg 96390CCF-EF6F-4994-B323-F335FBA4E5A2.jpeg CD9B7940-340D-4A5F-A6B8-40AF6DF21E7B.jpeg
     
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  26. brian fisher

    brian fisher Registered User

    Jan 20, 2017
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    welcome to the forum. I didn't even know we had a thread on comtoise. I guess I'll get around to posting ours sometime soon.

    your movement is probably 1850 to about 1870. your brass repousse is probably 20 years earlier than this. the pendulum is probably from about the era of the movement in my opinion. what does the back of the dial look like? it appears to be in awfully good shape for the age. it is possible that it is a replacement? the clock hands are just beautiful but I've never seen a calendar hand like that one.
     
  27. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    Thank you. The back of the dial has some sort of a hard, blackish finish on it. Pretty much similar to the clock I am working on now.

    Brad

    C53C6A74-6084-4DC5-8F8E-51779B44BBF0.jpeg
     
  28. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    The hard, blackish finish is called Contremaille,it was made from scrap emaille and covered the back side of the dial in order to compensate for the tension that is built up during the firing process and the cooling afterwards.If contremaille wasn´t used the dial would warp.
    Burkhard
     
  29. Sooth

    Sooth Registered User
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    Yes, exactly as Burkhard says, "counter enamel" is used on the back. The copper sheets used to make these dials is very thin and delicate, so it helps add a bit of strength, and it's needed in the firing process. Since scraps are used, it can be blackish, greyish, greenish, bluish, etc. It also tends to be a bit more coarse and gritty in texture, since the scrap enamel is not finely ground, nor carefully applied.
     
  30. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    Thank you. Do you think there is amismstch between the pendulum and the upper scene repousee?

    Brad
     
  31. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    #181 Brad Smith, Jan 5, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2019
    How do you post a video?

    Brad
     
  32. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    Gonna try again.
     
  33. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    as far as I know the verry ornamental pendulums with the rod and bob made of thin brass sheet are usualy associated with more oval brass dial surroundings.In these later the brass has a considerable width both left and right the dial and the bottom of it is more rounded up instead of the straight asnd rectangled shape that Brad Smith´s clock has.
    That being said let me try another educated guess on Brad´s clock:
    The cage could accommodate a month-runner , but the mvmt. is of 8 day duration. Therefor the the platines are quiet long below the winding arbors,the mvmt. looks to stand on "high heels" which is not unusual for these clocks in the 2nd half of the 19thcentury and the brass surounding has a "lower extension" which could be cut off when used in a lower 8 day cage. According to my information the use of the anchor started around ca 1860 and verge escapement and anchor were produced parallel for about 20 years until ca 1880 after which the verge escapement had allmost disapeared.
    The one piece suroundings with straight lower termination followed the two piece type often seen with two cornucopias besides a decorative center element from ca 1850-1860 onwards , and were followed by the oval surroundings after ca. 1890 til the end of production around the beginning of WW I, sometimes with colored decorations of the "high points" of the brass.
    So IMHO the clock was produced ca 1870-1880 +- 10years.The pendulum I´d expect would be either a three part foldable steel rod with a brass bob or a kind of Lyra pendulum.
    just my 2cts...
    Burkhard
     
  34. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    Thank you, Burkhart. Some feature details sure get muddy. After reading your post, I looked again at the photos on the Deckert museum site and they confirm what you say about the pendulums. All the clocks like mine have the round disc pendulum and the oval surround clocks have the large, pressed pendulums. Then I went to the Seymour book that says different. The clocks on eBay come both ways. The collector that I bought this clock from told me the clock was "mismatched." I am going to ask him what he means by that. I have written to Deckert concerning other Morbier questions and have received no answer. The photo of the peddler carrying the clocks like mine, on a backpack have the disk pendulum. That is logical that he couldn't manage the clocks and large pendulums. Very interesting observation.
     
  35. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    Today, I went to our local chapter NAWCC meeting and at the Mart, a man was selling Morbier clocks. He had a different one, than he brought last time. I was the only one interested. Turns out he is a big collector. He even was at the huge October auction in New Hampshire and bought some clocks. Well over 30 Morbiers were in the catalog, but there were many more sold in lots. Anyway, he offered me the surround face Morbier for $150. No weights and no pendulum. He sells them on eBay. He also parts out the clocks and sells the parts on eBay. I was wondering where the parts on eBay came from-guys parting out the clocks. He gets more for the parts than for the whole clock. He says he has lots of parts, if I need any. While I am interested in buying Morbiers, I would like a complete clock and pendulum. Weights are available. He has a three train Morbier (15 minute strike) that he said never had a brass decoration around the dial.

    D50050A1-0F6A-4B34-876C-1E66CF7C73CF.jpeg BBCB6992-666F-42F5-ACBC-6E7F3BF4BD22.jpeg
     
  36. JB

    JB Registered User
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    This is my only Comtoise ..its a favorite. I found a few photos from when I first got it.
    DSC_7637.JPG DSC_7630.JPG DSC_7629.JPG DSC_7624.JPG DSC_7615.JPG DSC_7613.JPG DSC_7635.JPG DSC_7643.JPG IMG_0547.jpg
     
  37. brian fisher

    brian fisher Registered User

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    I agree with burkhard. as I mentioned above, I think your repousse is about 20 years older than your pendulum. I think the movement is a little earlier than burkhard though because most(not all) movements after 1870 or 1880 used the gong style of strike instead of a bell.

    to post a video, you have to make an account on youtube, post your video there, then post a link of that here in this thread
     
  38. brian fisher

    brian fisher Registered User

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    this comtoise fairly early. my guess on this one is about 1820 to 1830 or so. I had a rusty movement like this I bought off eBay. my solution was to mix up 60% white vinegar(gallon jug) and 40% lemon juice(a couple quarts of the concentrate). I disassembled the clock and soaked all the steel parts in it. I would pull them out once a day and scrub them with a stiff bristle brush until they were rust free.

    definitely do not run the clock in this condition.
     
  39. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    That is a beautiful Comtoise clock and will look fantastic when restored to running condition. Brad
     
  40. Brad Smith

    Brad Smith Registered User
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    Apr 17, 2012
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    My latest treasure is what looks like a basket case of a clock. In looking at similar clocks, that are dated, I date it to about 1735, judging from the purple lettering on the cartouches, wrought iron hands (ruminants of), hand cut thin brass top decoration, pre cast bronze chickens, etc. By 1750, the brass hands had come into being and then later came the cast bronze top decorations. Both trains are complete and work. They need "adjustment" of course. Milling are the small cartouches, pendulum hanger, and sides and back and the decorative sheet brass top decoration. those parts can be made in my shop. Even the spring for the strike is intact. Yah, it is a restoration, but no more than a rusty old car. It needs to be completely taken apart and cleaned. There is some brass decorations on the bottom corners that seem to have been painted over with maroon paint at some time, along with the front sheet iron. The bronze front is very ornate and is a casting. Getting the cartouches off will be a trick. They seem to be held on with swagged square, non threaded "nuts" and some with wires through a hole. Oh, the bell was a foundry reject, with a blow hole in it. Sounds like crap. I could replace it or have the only such bell. There is extremely little wear on the parts and shaft bearings. I won't have to do any machine work on it. The iron pieces are match marked so they go back in the same location. The drums are wood.

    There is one part I can't figure out. It looks like a mini crown wheel and is in the lower corner, on a bracket.

    There is a pic on the web of a similar clock for sale in Europe, but pristine. I know that I can't really post that pic, though. It is slightly newer, 1750 vintage. There is nothing close to this clock in Seymour's book.

    Brad Smith

    79406D39-9FF4-45C3-A13A-D9356FB7A1A9.jpeg 3D828A61-051E-4D8A-B2AA-FA753A916C94.jpeg FDC960C1-F7E1-43EE-9997-E5C2FD8CAE4F.jpeg D277966D-9AB8-4827-9B6E-EBDCA5412635.jpeg F6C96A14-2A38-4460-8351-C38DF70C8ACA.jpeg A3E243B3-6F40-405F-B47A-03E12D3DCE36.jpeg 5F4635DE-AC31-4051-915D-676904DD6FDD.jpeg A7691302-24F6-49A2-B821-85CAF3A6DAE6.jpeg 8FF662CC-6554-4C27-966C-C9ABC9AB414A.jpeg
     
  41. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    Jun 1, 2007
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    the mini crown wheel is for an alarm-mechanism.It is lacking the hammer shaft,the "heart-disc" and indicator and the release lever.A nice and early clock,will look great once restored.Congrats!
    Burkhard
     
  42. Carl in France

    Carl in France Registered User

    Mar 14, 2019
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    Hello all, my first post here and my first foray into clocks, so all is new and very interesting.

    Following a find of a comtoise in a long case i came across a unloved example at a local Vide Grenier and felt compelled to buy it to restore and use it to learn about what makes a clock tick!
    Inspirations for doing so came from reading Sooths blog (jcclocks) and a lot of the posts here so thanks to all.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg

    Currently i am stripping and cleaning....always an easy part! I have yet to re-assemble.
     
    Sooth likes this.
  43. JTD

    JTD Registered User

    Sep 27, 2005
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    Carl in France, welcome to the board.

    I like the look of your new comtoise and I think it will look very fine when it is all cleaned up. Have you got the pendulum?

    Congratulations and please let us see it when you have done the cleaning etc..

    JTD
     
  44. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    Jun 1, 2007
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    Carl,a warm wellcome from me,too,You´ve come to the right place! Your comtoise will look nicely when You´ve done a complete overhaul! I´ve seen You have taken of the dial assembly which deserves special attention : the dial assembly in these consists of three parts:the dial itself,the dial plate (made of iron) and the pressed brass surounding.All need different treatment and therefor need to be separated.The brass surounding is held in place by the two skrews You´ve allready removed to take the whole thing off. Near the bottom edge -often hidden in the floral decorations- You´ll find two brass rivets.File them of from the back plate,push them out.Then carefully uncrimp the brass which overlaps the iron plate both left and right a bit.You need not to undo the whole "folding"process but just lift the free edge from the back side a few millimeters.You then can slide of the brass upwards or downwards.The dial is attached to the iron plate either by skrews or rivets. The dial is made of copper enameled,verry soft! Take care not to bend or deform it in any way, don´t apply pressure on it when cleaning,or it will bruise and the enamel will flake off.
    The iron plate can be treated like You did with the the side and back panel,the dial should be cleaned with a mild dishwashing solution,and the brass can be treated with dishwashing solution with a small amount of amonia added . Use and old tooth brush,and it will both clean up and brighten up again.Rinse with clear water thoroughly . To prevent re-tarnishing apply carnauba wax with a soft brush.HTH
    Burkhard
     
  45. Carl in France

    Carl in France Registered User

    Mar 14, 2019
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    Thanks for the welcome.

    And the tips. I was not going to separate the dial as it would mean filing the little brass rivets but as you say each of the pieces needs different attention so will do so. I had a look and have some small brass nails that look like they will do well to re attach the brass and i can re rivet with these.

    JTD, no i do not have a pendulum or key, but it is Vide Grenier season here so i am sure i will pick these up easily enough...my wife just knows i will look for more clocks of this type. I am certainly going to keep an eye out for some old 'vineyard' clocks.

    I will keep my blog updated as i go. It is all a learning curve so i do not mind if i go wrong and it is very addictive.

    The first clock i bought has not been touched yet as it rings perfectly and keeps time perfectly. It is in a short case (about 6 1/2 feet) but i prefer it that way as the proportions look better. All it means is there is not enough drop for an eight day run.
    image.jpg .
     
  46. Carl in France

    Carl in France Registered User

    Mar 14, 2019
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    Front now cleaned, very satisfying to do.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  47. Carl in France

    Carl in France Registered User

    Mar 14, 2019
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    Yet another comtoise clock arrives!

    Some-one local was selling their clock for next to nothing and i was not able to stop myself. After the last one i got a feel for getting a rusty old mechanism going again and my lovely lady suggests a clock for her sewing room, so project number two starts.
    It is a bit of a fine balance though between time spent on the clocks and painting /renovating the house. Today the clock will win.

    Thanks all for the articles here on the site. Beat setting 101 was all new to me and easy to understand getting the last clock running well.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  48. peterc6

    peterc6 Registered User

    Feb 18, 2010
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    Someone in this organization wrote a book about Morbier Clocks.. I have misplaced it. It featured my clock I would like to buy it again, Thank you! Peter Cunningham
     
  49. Carl in France

    Carl in France Registered User

    Mar 14, 2019
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    The two I have are...

    Comtoise 2nd Edition by David Holmes (Paperback, 2016), and Morbier Clocks (Paperback) Lawrence A Seymour.

    Maybe one of these?
     
  50. Rustywrench

    Rustywrench Newbie

    Dec 27, 2014
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    First time to post. Here’s my new purchase. Missing a lot of parts but I’m up for the challenge. Would anyone know where I could come up with a calendar wheel and a left door? Thanks

    2E726DB2-DF35-4E5F-BEC5-7D409A60D30E.jpeg E6CC2A88-0E07-423C-B98A-77DACD4FF918.jpeg DE8A334D-5AF3-4196-9A79-2FD2D10A6873.jpeg E58C22AD-65A3-4EAB-84B0-BCDBD67C7E30.jpeg 3AEEA839-CF7A-4D09-8A67-1FDB798E4686.jpeg 6F47B133-73D8-4678-905B-E52A9C26F55A.jpeg F494A188-535E-42F7-BF36-DD8ACC5E6E56.jpeg E91CB8D8-3968-40BD-8B9E-E5333C821D5E.jpeg 64B549DA-AFCA-42A2-B4FB-D23163C6243D.jpeg 6D987A7E-8358-4ACB-BFD3-F2675A546F04.jpeg 086CB571-AB12-41D4-B099-38167CF3C4F7.jpeg
     

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