PLate 1717?

KurtinSA

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Nov 24, 2014
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Whenever I discuss things like this with my friend/mentor, he says I missed something. It ran when it left the factory. So, yeah, BTDT!

Kurt
 
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Wayne A

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Sep 24, 2019
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Well theres probably something wrong somewhere. Some clocks are just marginal at best so they have to be in top condition to run. Little bits of friction add up but it sure does not take much to stop a 400 day clock.
For backwards barrel's I make an new arbor just to remove/install the spring on the winder.

Wayne
 
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Schatznut

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I've got two like this running right now and they're both making about 300-315 degrees of rotation. There's plenty of power available, provided it's going where you want it to go.
 

Schatznut

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As shown below:

Huber fork position.JPG
 

Ken M

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Wow! I have a normal looking anchor pin. The fork and bottom block were missing, so I'm using a regular fork. The top block that came with it I have my doubts. There are two divots on each side of the saddle, looks like something is supposed to be resting on it, like a pin. It's just a normal block. I was wondering if the fork is supposed to be in that slot. Like you said, getting power in the right place. Think I'll try that tomorrow. If that top block is supposed to be resting on top, that would make for a lot of spring between the fork and the block, so that wouldn't make sense.
 

Schatznut

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The clearance is correct on the fork. The photo perspective doesn't give a good sense of it.
 

tracerjack

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That looks like a lot of space between the fork tines. That could result in a loss of power.
I see the top of the anchor pin is curled, which I’ve never seen before. I also see minimal clearance between it and the fork tines. Am I seeing something in the photo that isn’t really there?
 

Schatznut

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The clearance is correct on the fork. The photo perspective doesn't give a good sense of it. I have three Hubers; two of them have this feature on the anchor pin and the third has a conventional straight pin.
 

Ken M

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Where is your fork on the conventional? I don't think that's my problem, but a couple times after moving it, I thought it was going to run, but I was wrong.
 

Dells

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Where is your fork on the conventional? I don't think that's my problem, but a couple times after moving it, I thought it was going to run, but I was wrong.
Lower the fork until it flutters then back up 1mm that should give you the optimal position, but even two clocks the same can have the fork in a different place .
Dell
 

Ken M

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I found the problem. The donut on the anchor arbor that holds the anchor pin is rubbing the backplate. There was a little warpage on the backplate that pulled the saddle bracket away, so the pivot didn't keep it from hitting the backplate. It will run as long as that donut is away from the backplate, but as it runs, it works it's way back to the backplate and applies the brakes. Just got to keep it way from there, and I think it will run.
 

Schatznut

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Makes sense. The further up the train the power goes, the less resistance it takes to stall it, and when you're at the anchor, that's the last step in the chain before the fork. I'm surprised you've found warpage in a plate - these are beefy movements.
 

Ken M

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It was slight. But I don't know how to fix this. The donut needs to move in about 3-4 thousandths. I can't figure why it's like it is. I don't have tools or patience for it. My ideas are destructive. I'm just going to leave it alone for now, I'm losing my patience.
 

Schatznut

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It would be a fairly simple fix, but as you noted, it would take a special tool (easily made) and a little patience. Plus a little finesse and a bit of luck. But it's doable. Contact me by PM - I could make the tool for you easily.
 

Ken M

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It was running today, but I had to fix it. Evidence that the gear on the hour arbor was rubbing on the front plate made me think it was a problem. So I set the gear so with the arbor all the way to the back plate, it wasn't touching the front plate. Very, very close, but not touching. Then I come to find out the hour hand could not go on far enough to get a good enough grip so that when I moved the minute hand, the hour hand wouldn't move and the minute hand would loosen and fall off. So this is where Kurt's comment about the clutch thingy and the gear comes into play. So, I determined the gear had to go on another 0.2mm farther. So I did that, now the hour hand follows the minute hand like it's supposed to, but it doesn't run. So close.
 

Ken M

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It's running without the minute hand. I'll see if it makes it through the night and try the minute hand again. I thought the minute hand cleared the hour pipe, maybe not.
 

Ken M

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It ran all night. I put the minute hand on a couple hours ago with less force than I did yesterday, and it's still running. Hard to believe. This one had issues, with some operator error thrown in.
 

KurtinSA

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Nov 24, 2014
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With a new spring on the way, why not try thinning the spring you have? How fast is it?

Kurt
 

Ken M

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Fast, gains about 15 minutes an hour or worse. I'll wait,
 

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