Plate 1419 help needed

Discussion in '400-Day & Atmos' started by Barry Armstrong, Oct 17, 2019.

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  1. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    I just purchased a 4 glass clock with the movement represented by Plate 1419 in the Horolovar book. I cleaned the movement and went to the book to get the spring size and length. I'm missing the bottom block and tried to find out what shape/size to get. The description on the Plate1419 was a disc or 4 ball pendulum. I have a temperature compensating chronometer disc. Is this a problem? On page 196 plate 19 shows a disc associated with Plate 1419. Mine has a similar center piece but a two metal ring. I don't have the capability to photograph the movement. When I do I'll post them. Any hep would be appreciated.
     
  2. Ingulphus

    Ingulphus Registered User

    May 29, 2006
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    Plate 1419 is for a clock made by Phillip Hauck, and the pendulum you describe should look like #6 on Page 195, which is also by Hauck. The bottom block should be a snug fit into the hook on the pendulum, and anything that fits will work. We would love to see photos of the clock as well as the movement - Hauck four-glass cases are very attractive, in my opinion. Is there a serial number inscribed in pencil or ink anywhere on the pendulum? If so, does it match the number on the movement - that would help determine that the pendulum is original to the clock.

    Best regards,

    Mark
     
  3. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Any idea of the length of the torsion spring?
     
  4. etmb61

    etmb61 Registered User
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    Oct 25, 2010
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    Hi Barry,

    The spring should be long enough that the pendulum hangs about 1/2 inch above the base of clock.

    Any chance you could post a few pictures?

    Eric
     
  5. KurtinSA

    KurtinSA Registered User
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    Nov 24, 2014
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    Measure the length with the pendulum mocked up sitting on the base...then cut the suspension spring longer than your measurement. This gives you a chance to slowly cut the spring back a bit at a time until you get the length you need.

    Krt
     
  6. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Here are a few pictures taken with my phone during the movement cleaning process. They're not very good, but, they're all I have for now. Will post better pictures in the near future.

    IMG_20191017_102246.jpg IMG_20191017_102300.jpg IMG_20191017_103418.jpg
     
  7. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Here's a few more pictures. As you can see the case is in rough shape. I'm not sure what I will doing with the case:???:?

    IMG_2209.JPG IMG_2210.JPG IMG_2211.JPG IMG_2212.JPG IMG_2213.JPG IMG_2216.JPG
     
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  8. Ingulphus

    Ingulphus Registered User

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    Expending a lot of elbow grease, if you don't want to keep it heavily tarnished. To do a thorough job, it would be necessary to dismantle the case into its various components, not a job for the faint of heart! It will be a beautiful clock when finished; this case and pendulum are somewhat uncommon.
     
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  9. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    The only thiing is the case doesn't look tarnished. I looks like it is copper plated.
     
  10. etmb61

    etmb61 Registered User
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    Oct 25, 2010
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    If you examine the protected areas on the case you should find what the original finish looked like. For your case you should be able to unscrew the four feet and remove the bottom plate, or two screws inside the case that hold the top plate. If you do take the case apart you should make sure you have a way of keeping track of what part goes where so it goes back in the same place.

    Brass will turn copper colored as the zinc is leached from the alloy. It also causes pitting on the surface. Eventually it will turn green as the copper oxidizes.

    Eric
     
  11. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Who would of thought......What do most of you use when dealing with this issue (I used a product named MAAS for the patch that I cleaned)

    IMG_2217a.jpg
     
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  12. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Another issue has come up with cleaning the case. When I finally remove the corrosion and get to the brass metal, the areas that were heavily choroid came up as a rose-gold colour versus the less choroid areas yellow-gold. Any ideas on how to colour the rose-gold to yellow-gold? I've heard of a lacquer spray with gold in it. Would that work?
     
  13. etmb61

    etmb61 Registered User
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    Oct 25, 2010
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    Hi Barry,

    That color is where the brass has lost zinc. The only way to remove it is mechanically. Polish through it. You may need something more aggressive than what you're using. I use Simichrome which is very effective but it even fails if the corrosion extends too deep. Your case is pretty heavy so you shouldn't have to worry about damaging it.

    Eric
     
  14. Burkhard Rasch

    Burkhard Rasch Registered User
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    note that the brass used for the case is of lower quality than that of the movement. In my experiance a few discolored spots remain even with an "aggressive" polish.Take care not to mix up frames and crystals ,they are not interchangeable! Make notes or build seperate piles of parts while taking appart.
    A nice and collectable clock when it ´s done , especially with that compensating pendulum!
    Burkhard
     
  15. Barry Armstrong

    Barry Armstrong Registered User
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    Feb 3, 2015
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    Any idea of the size and a source of a bottom block?
     
  16. KurtinSA

    KurtinSA Registered User
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    Nov 24, 2014
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    Chris at The Horolovar Store can probably help you with a bottom block.

    Kurt
     

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