Pinion Faults

[DJDasher]

Greetings,

When looking for faults in pinions, what sort of things should I be looking for?

Thanks,

Dennis
0113796

 

[DJDasher]

Greetings,

When looking for faults in pinions, what sort of things should I be looking for?

Thanks,

Dennis
0113796

 

[Robert M.]

Hi Dennis:
I'll tell you my strategy.I check all the Trundles in the Lantern Pinions.If I see any undercutting,and you'll see more than your share of it I yank all the trundles out of that particular Lantern Pinion and replace them.Very easy to do.I use either pinion or piano wire.Everybody has their favorites and both work fine.I think pinion inspection should be part of any clock overhaul.It saves a lot of aggravation down the road.
Just thought I'd pass this on to you.Thanks for the post.Its' a great question.
Sincerely,Bob F.

 

[Jim Moss]

Pinion problems are a treatise in themselves.

For cut pinions:
* worn leaves (causes the endshake to become limited)

* incorrect module: does not closely enough match the wheel module

* poor or incorrect tooth shape

* poor surface finish

For Lantern pinions:
* worn trundles
* worn shrouds
* loose trundles (able to rotate)
* wrong module
* soldered trundles
* loose shrouds

There are several reference books on gearing that you should read.........

 

[Sooth]

To the pros:

I've tried to remove worn trundles before (from lantern pinions on an Ogee clock), and was unable to slide any of them out, using good pliers.

Is there a trick? Do I have to "open up" the crimped ends a little first? If so, how? The book I have says they should come out "easily".

:frown:

 

[Robert M.]

Hi Sooth:
I posted a step by step tutorial in a reply to a fella who asked the same question about two months ago.See if you can dig it up.I think it will answer your questions.Its really quite easy and yes you do have to open the holes in the caps in order to remove the trundles.
If you can't find it let me know and i'll send you the procedures via private message.
Your Friend,Bob Fullerton

 

[lpbp]

I use a sharpened dental pick to open the end a little, then work the pinion wire out through the end. This way you don't remove any of the brass and reclosing is easier.

Larry Pearson, FNAWCC* #35863

 

[Tunderer]

I have never found it necessary to open a trundle hole to get the wire out.
I place arbor down on a bench block with a hole big enough to accept the arbor and enough side space to accept the wire as it emerges. I use old diagonal pliers and grip not cut the wire to push it out. Cutting the wire or deeply notching the wire raises a burr that will ream out the hole on the way through the shroud. If that fails I have a dremal disk grinder mounted on the bench to cut the wire near the middle. I then use a pair of long nose pliers modified to a vee slot on one side and thinned on the other side to fit between the cut pieces of wire. The vee side is outside the shroud. Squeeze and the wire pops out the shroud in the vee neatly cleaning out the hole on the way. Do them one at a time so the piece doesn't fall out before you get to force it through the shroud. When solder is present I chuck the arbor in the lathe and trim off all the solder I can get to. Usually no heat is required to push the pins out. Don't make the mistake of cutting too close to the back shroud if the wire is tight you may not be able to grip the piece to get it out of the blind hole.