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Parts movement located finally for my column and cornice clock!

captainclock

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Hello everyone, with all of the problems I was having with my 1858 Seth Thomas Column and Cornice Clock I decided to see if I could find a parts movement to get parts off of to get my clock running again, and so I looked through ebay listings and sure enough I found one that was of the old Lyre Style movement that was an 8-Day weight driven movement like mine, but probably about 10-15 years newer than mine is because it says Thomaston on it rather than Plymouth, and the plates are secured with screws rather than taper pins like mine is. my question is, when did Seth Thomas start labelling their brass weight driven lyre movements "Thomaston" and when did they start using screws to secure the plates rather than taper pins?
I would like to know just as a way to figure out how to date some of these old weight driven movements.

See the picture below to see what the movement looks like.

Seth Thomas Parts Movement.jpg
 
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James Gardner

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In 1866, the town Plymouth Hollow, CT was renamed Thomason, CT, so your movement dates after 1866. Spittier's Watchmakers and Clockmaker's book also mentions Thomason, after 1866. There may be Seth Thomas collectors on this message board who might be able to narrow it down further.
 

captainclock

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OK, I was thinking maybe there would of been a specific year or so when they switched over from using taper pins to fasten the movement plates together to using screws to hold the plates together, but I wasn't sure.
 

captainclock

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Ok, so I got the parts movement in the mail on Tuesday and I finally got my clock running and striking as it should.

But it took me a while to get the replacement count wheel arm bent into the right position so that it would work with my movement, and then get the strike train timing correct (it kept wanting to either overstrike or continuously strike) but now its working as it should.
 

captainclock

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OK, so this is kind of a little update on my clock, I've got the clock running and striking as its supposed to, but for some reason I can't get the clock to keep accurate time. No matter how high I raise the pendulum bob the clock keeps wanting to lose 20-25 minutes within a several hours time and the weird part is that it starts losing the time right away (it starts losing 2 minutes within a half hour and 5 minutes within an hour and 15 minutes within 90 minutes and so on and so forth, and I can't figure out why the clock would suddenly start losing so much time within such a short period of time.

The only things I changed out between my clock's original movement and the parts movement was the count wheel counting lever, and the escape wheel (the escape wheel that was on my clock originally was in really bad shape with some mishapened teeth and what not) everything else is the same including the same pendulum bob that I had on the clock previously before my strike mechanism started acting up and the clock then ran fine and kept perfect time (it didn't lose any time or not much anyways.)

Any ideas as to what might be going on here?
 

shutterbug

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If the escape wheel tooth count is different in either the wheel or the pinion it will affect timing a lot.
 

captainclock

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If the escape wheel tooth count is different in either the wheel or the pinion it will affect timing a lot.
Well the original escapement wheel was a 38 tooth escapement wheel, and the one on the parts movement looked identical (it looked like it had the same tooth count.) I wouldn't have thought that a Seth Thomas 8-Day Weight Driven Lyre Movement from the 1870s would of had that much of a difference in its parts composition than the same movement that was made nearly 20 years earlier.
 
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shutterbug

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A quick count will either identify the issue or rule it out ;)
 

captainclock

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A quick count will either identify the issue or rule it out ;)
They were both the same, 38 teeth. the verge/crutch assembly I was using when I was having this issue came out of my Waterbury 30 Hour Half-Column Clock (the replacement crutch/verge assembly I had bought for my clock broke on me when I was trying to make fine adjustments to the crutch to make sure the clock was running properly.)
 

captainclock

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The pinion also?
What are you referring to when you are saying this? Are you asking about the tooth count on the escapement wheel or are you asking about the verge assembly? you need to be a little more specific especially since I was discussing two different issues in my previous posting.

If you're referring to the escapement wheel, I was referring to the fact that the escapement wheel from the parts Seth Thomas Movement (which was the subject of the thread originally) and the original escapement wheel on my Column and Cornice clock both had the same tooth count on the escapement wheel, the pinion (which I'm guessing you're referring to the "lantern" gear that the great wheel (third gear) goes into that was only 7 teeth on both escapement wheels.

So would having a different verge assembly that came from a 30-hour movement clock vs and 8-day clock make a difference in how a clock runs?
I'm asking because the verge assembly from my 30-hour Waterbury Half-Column clock is a very similar style of verge assembly to what my clock uses but the crutch portion of the verge needed to be bowed way out in order for the verge to catch properly on the escapement wheel to make the clock run properly, but even then the clock still kept horrible time (it lost 20 minutes within a 2 hour span no matter how the bob was set.)
 
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Joe Somebody

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I think Shutterbug meant the smaller gear on the same shaft which would be referred to as the pinion gear.

So for example, you have a 30 tooth escape wheel with a 7 tooth pinion...
 

captainclock

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I think Shutterbug meant the smaller gear on the same shaft which would be referred to as the pinion gear.

So for example, you have a 30 tooth escape wheel with a 7 tooth pinion...
OK, yes both escapement wheels I have (the parts one and the original one) were 38 tooth escapement wheel with a 7 tooth pinion, so that was not my issue with why my clock didn't seem to want to keep proper time (kept wanting to lose 20 minutes within 2 hours.)
 

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