Most visitors online was 1660 , on 12 Dec 2020
Try this site, it lists the part you need but you have to buy the set?I am in search of the bottom left spandrel of a Herschede grandfather clock dial. It's a triple chime 9 tube movement.
I have a CNC machine and I make wooden gear clocks and do repairs for others. I probably could make you a replacement gear but the picture is so bad I cannot tell.
I make replacement parts for old clocks. Mostly I deal with wooden gear clocks but have built parts for others. I have CNC machine that can build almost any part for a clock. PM me with details if you are interested.Dial needed. I am repairing a C & N Jerome weight driven mantel clock with a brass "A" frame movement with rolling pinions. It probably dates to the late 1830s. It is missing the dial. I would guess that the dial was about 11 inches square with a large center hole. Only a guess. It had roman numerals. The center to center distance between winding arbors in 3 13/16 inches and the c-c distance between hour arbor and either winding arbor is only 1 7/8 inches. Does anyone have anything that would work?
I can make a replacement gear for your clock. I would really like to have the original to copy. PM me if you are interested.Hi, all.
I'm looking for a click wheel (aka winding gear) for my 1920s Colonial 5-tube grandfather clock. I'm attaching a few pics to show what I'm referring to. As you can see, several of the teeth have broken off. (I'm still able to wind the clock, but I have to be very careful as I turn the crank so as not to break any more teeth off when the crank jumps ahead at the gap. Plus, if I ever wish to part with the clock, I can't very well sell it in this condition).
I'm also attaching a page from the 1999-2001 S. LaRose "Keep Book" catalog showing what I think is the one I need. (See red arrow). However, it's a little confusing because the description for the part describes it as having 18 teeth and yet while the side-view (with shaft) indeed shows 18 teeth the front-view next to it only shows 14 teeth. Also, it gives the diameter as 17mm but from the best that I can tell, mine is only about 15mm.
Of course, since S. LaRose is out of business (or operating under another incarnation in Russia or whatever), I'm wondering if there is anywhere else that I might obtain this part...? I've tried looking in catalogs for Timesavers, Merritt's, Ronnell, etc. (and online) but haven't had much luck.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
I can make a replacement finial but would need the original to copy. i can match the wood but matching the finish/color may be difficult.This is a long shot.... but I am looking for a finial for my Nutone clock / doorbell and a spandrel for my West German-made Forestville chain driven wall clock. If anyone has either of these items that they would want to sell I would really appreciate it!
I look for this finial from time to time on a regular basis - no luck! I would swear that this finial pattern was made special for this clock and this clock only.....
I can make a replacement part for your clock. I would need to have the original to copy. PM me if you are interestedI'm looking for the first gear and possibly mainspring barrel for a Gustav Becker wall clock. The movement is stamped P48 M. The mainspring broke and stripped a couple of teeth on the barrel and one tooth off of the first gear.
I have this Ansonia time side mainspring barrel with a broken tooth. I was able to solder a new teeth but not sure if that would hold up to the pressure.
If any one has a spare barrel pls PM me, this is the movement used in statue clocks, with 9 inch drop, if i counted correctly it has 80 teeth, and takes a 3/4" wide mainspring, the barrels are not open, and takes a brass cover to close.
If not, any suggestions for stress testing/strengthening the tooth.
PM Clocks has a pretty good selectoin of 400 day parts. Got a suspension bridge for a 53 from them a few months back.Hello and Good Day,
I have a Schatz 53, which had a ratchet self destruct. This is the second time I wound the clock and I will check the ratchet first from now on. Lesson after 2 bruised fingers and blackened nails. I do not have a donor clock and any assistance to find a ratchet would be appreciated.
Yes, but was concerned with the thickness of the rim and the fact that this wheel has full spring pressure on it. Sure would have been better if the teeth had stripped at one of the spokes. I was sitting here this morning and the thought occured to try to braze in the gap and recut. I've got some pretty small torch tips and plenty of brazing rod. It's gonna be tricky in not melting away the thin section.Have you considered dovetailing in a piece and cutting in the missing teeth Jay?
I wouldn't be too worried about the fact the wheel has full spring pressure on it Jay. Any barrel is only as strong as the width of one tooth! I'd file in a blank and set it in with some high grade silver solder. I tried brazing a wheel with bronze once and only once. I had to get it too hot for the bronze to take and that made the wheel brittle in that spot.Yes, but was concerned with the thickness of the rim and the fact that this wheel has full spring pressure on it. Sure would have been better if the teeth had stripped at one of the spokes. I was sitting here this morning and the thought occured to try to braze in the gap and recut. I've got some pretty small torch tips and plenty of brazing rod. It's gonna be tricky in not melting away the thin section.
The label calls it New Haven Tigris one day striking alarm clock. There has been a half completed attempt to install some other movement but it does look like wood mounting blocks were used behind the stock movement. The alarm unit is in the lower left corner (equipped with its own winder) and goes off when a rod allows the lever on it's side to drop. The alarm can be deactivated by turning the bell so a flat area contacts the hammer.Does the movement mount in wood blocks? Looks like a 30hr?