New member, first post. Seth Thomas Regulator No. 2 comes to a new home.

Elrick

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May 27, 2022
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Hello. I've recently collected my favorite of my parent's small wall clock collection that I grew up with. It's a Seth Thomas Reproducer 2 which may have been made around 1910 or so. My Dad bought it from his clock repair guy an elderly German gentleman. Apparently this clock was the one that the repair guy used to set all his other clocks to. Don't know if that story is true, but it's a good one.

Clock was last in my Moms condo and kept good time and was always running. After she moved to an assisted living place the clock has sat for a couple years until now. Been a coupe decades at least since it was last serviced or lubed.

I have recently mounted it on the wall after a couple attempt's to find the stud. It been running for two weeks and may have lost 2 minutes. Just starting to evaluate things. Was a bit fussy to get it positioned correctly to run. Looking forward to learning more about the proper care and feeding of this beautiful clock.

Check out pics

DSC_0005.JPG DSC_0013.JPG
 
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bruce linde

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lovely. it's actually a seth thomas 'regulator' 2. They made them from about 1860 to 1940 or something, and then a re-issue of about 4000 in the 70s.

You probably do want to have it serviced, as they need to be cleaned and oiled every 5 to 10 years or so to prevent wear.

the clock that got me hooked on collecting was an ST2 and i still think they're lovely. congrats!
 
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Elrick

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Regulator, of course. Do'h! Where's my meds.
Thanks, I'm bound to need advise and information in the near future but will begin to do my homework and evaluate where it's at. First need to secure it better.

I want it to continue running.
 
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bruce linde

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do you know about "in beat"? The ticking needs to be perfectly even, with each tick and tock evenly spaced. if you just level the case so that the sides are perpendicular to the floor, it may not be perfectly in beat... but it needs to be, to run. the movements can be slightly off in the mounting brackets, doesn't matter why. the movement knows when it is in beat and will run best that way.

there is a way to level the case and then bend the crutch... the piece that connects the movement to the pendulum... slightly to get it perfectly in beat.

what i do with these is get the case hanging just right... with hands and dial removed... and the pin out an additional black sheet rock screw through one of the inevitable already existing holes in the inside back of the case to help secure to the wall and keep it from moving when mpbith bezel and lower doors are open.

once i have that i will make required adjustments to the crutch so it's perfectly in beat. only then do i then replace the dial and put the hands back on. once the case is mounted these guys are designed to be able to remove the movement from the mounting bracket for serviced maintenance.

yours almost certainly has the #61 movement with rectangular plates and thinner crutch (as opposed to the #77 movements)... making the in beat procedure i detailed above a little easier. Have you ever pulled the hands and dial? it would help to see pho of what's behind the curtain. at the very least, you could take a photo from behind/underneath the dial and try to get the movement... use the flash.

hope all of this makes sense.
 
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Elrick

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I'm just learning about the in beat concept. Currently I would say it's not "in beat".

When I removed it from my moms condo there was only a single mounting post on the top. At our family home, before the condo they probably used the additional lower securing position. I now see there are two holes in the back of the cabinet.

I have never pulled the hands, or exposed the works. All I have done is mount it on a wood screw into a stud behind the plaster. After that, I cranked up the weight and set the time by moving the hands. Pushed the pendulum and hoped for the best. So far it's running and keeping pretty good time but the tick tock sound may not be perfect.

Some more pictures. Should I change my title to say regulator instead of reproducer? ?

DSC_0722.JPG DSC_0714.JPG DSC_0725.JPG
 

Elrick

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May 27, 2022
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Well after a month or so I think I have it adjusted for speed just about right. I have systematically adjusted the pendulum nut upward bit by bit about once per week as I track the time loss. Currently it's keeping time perfectly. I think it's in beat, at least by my ear.

One time I think I must have cranked the weight a bit too high because after that it stopped running later in the day. I guess perhaps the clock may have shifted from it's position on the wall causing it to stop. Not really sure what happened but it started up and continues to run perfectly after that episode.

I still haven't removed the face to attempt an oiling. Don't want to damage the hands.

Wondering how high the weight can be safely raised?

Eric
 
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Willie X

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It is designed to bump. Just don't get carried away. And, you never know what condition something is in until you have a good look-see ... Willie X
 

Willie X

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Yes, unless the cable is crossed up on the drum, or way to long. The cable could also be damaged and 'hanging by a thread'. We're all just kinda guessing at this point. :)
Willie X
 

ChimeTime

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Welcome !

These clocks were originally used in public places, which is why 1) the lower door locks closed, and 2) why extra fasteners may have been added to the back board, used to secure the clock from being knocked out of vertical, thus upsetting the "beat".

A single mounting point is all that's needed when these are used in a home setting. One of the issues with these big clocks is that opening either door, can make the ST2 want to slide to the left. Even small movements can throw the clock out of beat.

May I suggest you load a free app onto your phone called Cuckoo Calibration. With no other apps running, about every 20 seconds a meter will sweep the periphery of the RH circle. The further it progresses, the better the Beat. Sweeping to the 5 o'clock position on the circle indicates the ideal. Push the bottom of the clock left/right in tiny increments until it's perfect. After you use this app for several weeks, your ear will be much better at hearing the beat for yourself.

Hope this helps.
 

Elrick

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May 27, 2022
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yours almost certainly has the #61 movement
Looking at some notes my father left w/ the clock I believe you are correct. I see MUT #61 at the bottom of the index card. I also found a replacement cable for the weight. Thanks for the assistance on this. My Dad payed $50 for the clock including delivery and installation in 1991. That seems like a great deal even hack then.

I don't really have a phone capable of apps to evaluate the beat, but I'll see what I can do. It would be nice to be able to check it properly.

DSC_0751.JPG DSC_0756.JPG DSC_0762.JPG
 

Willie X

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When you find 'the right spot' put a small pencil mark on the wall at one side of the case, near the bottom. Then lift the case and place a small piece of blue tac at one of the lower corners and push the case into the blue tack, making sure you're on the pencil mark.

Not as good as the ole screw behind the pendulum bob but usually good enough to prevent 'skateing' around on th wall.

Willie X
 

MartinM

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My current #2 will 100% stop if I let the weight contact the stop. I usually just have to restart it once or twice to get it going again. For me it's easiest to just wind till the weight disappears.
 
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Uhralt

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I wind mine until the weight disappears from view. Then I continue winding more slowly until I feel a slight increase in resistance. Never had a problem with the clock stopping.

Uhralt
 

ChimeTime

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I don't really have a phone capable of apps to evaluate the beat, but I'll see what I can do. It would be nice to be able to check it properly.
This app doesn't require a 'working' phone, as long as your have wireless internet service in your home. I use an older, out-of-date phone that my son gave me. I loaded the app onto the phone via the internet and simply use it as a computing device. This device no longer has any "telecommuncations" capability.

With a phone in this state (and a charger) I know the internet time and can run any of several clock apps.
 

Elrick

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I have an old iphone 6 that has my Track Fone chip installed. So basically I use it like a flip phone but in an older iphone. I have ran an occasional application like a GPS speedometer And also tried an app that's suppose to check a turntable for proper speed but they never really work correctly.
I don't have a wireless router in the house I use an old fashioned wired coax router for my computer.

I'll speak to a guy from work and see if he can help me load the clock app on my phone.
 

Elrick

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I wind mine until the weight disappears from view.
Interesting, my weight is still fully visible when I stop winding. I stop when it's about 1/2 inch from the top of the glass frame.
Maybe my cord is crossed?
Eric
 

Uhralt

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Interesting, my weight is still fully visible when I stop winding. I stop when it's about 1/2 inch from the top of the glass frame.
Maybe my cord is crossed?
Eric
That is weird. How long does your clock run between windings? I would expect no more than 5 days when it should run for at least 8 days.

Uhralt
 

ChimeTime

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I'll speak to a guy from work and see if he can help me load the clock app on my phone.
Anyone who has reached "guru status" on phones or computers has an unused second generation smart phone stuck in a desk drawer somewhere. Ask your friends. Download the app over the network at work, then bring it home.
 

Elrick

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That is weird. How long does your clock run between windings?
Thanks for the reply. Your assumption was correct, last time I only got about 5 days before needing a rewind. This time I wound it up higher than before but still not at the stop, the weight shows about 1" of the bottom. I'll monitor and see if it stops running.
 

bruce linde

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Thanks for the reply. Your assumption was correct, last time I only got about 5 days before needing a rewind. This time I wound it up higher than before but still not at the stop, the weight shows about 1" of the bottom. I'll monitor and see if it stops running.


wind it fully... slow down after 8 full revolutions of the winding key and then go slowly until you feel the weight just hit the bottom of the movement.... and report back.

some of these movements had a piece that stopped the pulley from rising into the movement.... on some, ,that piece wasn't there. either way, winding this way should NOT stop the movement. if it does, i would be interested in seeing what's going on behind the dial.

happy to talk you through all of that sometime by phone... just an offer.

p.s.: with any weight cord of .8mm diameter or so you should get a full eight days of run time. if you have calipers, let us know the diameter of the current weight cord.
 
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Elrick

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weight just hit the bottom of the movement.... and report back.

OK, you convinced me, For the first time I wound it up all the way until I hit the stop. So far it's running normally. Hope to get at lest a week out of it now.

I can't even see the weight, it's so far up there.

DSC_0773.JPG
 

Willie X

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Yes, most of these style clocks work this way. I worked on an Ansonia Standard office clock earlier this year. It was very similar to the ST you have but the weight is longer. It still wound up with the weight completely out of sight. Willie X
 

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