New Haven Gingerbread Clock movement mounted in wood blocks?

Discussion in 'Clock Case Restoration and Repair' started by saskjoe, Feb 18, 2012.

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  1. saskjoe

    saskjoe Registered User

    Dec 1, 2011
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    I'm trying to rebuild this clock that I bought missing its movement and hands. Once I read a reference to the movement being held in wood blocks. What I would like is a picture of an original set of these mounting blocks. I think that is what belongs in there as there are no impressions left by metal mounting lugs and the hole spacing is a bit off as well for that type of bracket. The rear label calls it a 1 day New Haven Tigris. As seen in photos, some wood trim will have to be fabricated. What are the likely type of wood used on this? Thanks for now, Joe. clock 159.jpg clock 158.jpg
     
  2. Jim Hartog

    Jim Hartog Registered User
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    Jan 6, 2010
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    Hello Joe.

    I have one of these that I restored (new base, dial paper, pendulum, glass). The Tigris is on page 332 of Tran's New Haven book as clock number 1350. It came as a 1 day strike or a one day strike and alarm and appeared in a catalogue in 1886. The book has the wood as black walnut, which is what I used. I will take some photos of the clock, movement and mounting blocks and post them shortly.

    Jim
     
  3. Jim Hartog

    Jim Hartog Registered User
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    Jan 6, 2010
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    Hello again Joe,

    I'm struggling with the new photo attachment thing. I hope they appear. If not, I will try again.

    Bottom block (walnut)
    3/4" x 3/4" x 3 1/8"
    1/4" x 3/8" cutouts for the pillars
    lateral groove for the plates is about 3/64" and runs 1/3 from the front and 2/3 from the back

    Top block (poplar)
    3/4" x 1 1/4" x 3 3/8"
    1/4" x 7/16" cutouts for the pillars (top pillars are further apart than bottom pillars)
    lateral groove for the plates same as the bottom
    1 1/4" groove for clearance for the fly
    3/16" groove for clearance for the end of the fly arbor

    Jim
     

    Attached Files:

  4. saskjoe

    saskjoe Registered User

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    Thank you so much for these photos and info! When I saw the top block picture it looked familiar and sure enough I had that piece in my box of spares. The search did not turn up the bottom block but that's fine. I wonder if the mounting screws should be put in from the back instead due to what is now rather fragile wood. On the other hand I don't want to be horologically incorrect and surely some sort of mounting point strengthening will be possible. Nice clock by the way. Very similar to mine save for the base and glass details and the alarm. In other threads people mention disabling the alarm but this one can be stopped by rotating the bell to the right spot. Thanks again, Joe.
     
  5. harold bain

    harold bain Forums Administrator
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    Nov 4, 2002
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    Joe, if you don't wind the alarm, it won't bother you. No need to rotate the bell.
     
  6. saskjoe

    saskjoe Registered User

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    That is true but a good design detail discovery is always fun.
     
  7. Jim Hartog

    Jim Hartog Registered User
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    Jan 6, 2010
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    Hello Joe,

    When I was disassembling and re-assembling for the photos I noticed that the top block is up quite far to the point that the screwdriver is quite angled to get in there. It may be a good idea to install the top block on the back with the back removed. Good luck finding a movement.

    Jim
     
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