New Dial Drilling

[Richard.W]

Received a new 13" dial from Timesavers for a new-to-me No2 Regulator project. It's a steel dial with silkscreened characters. Since it only came drilled for the hour hand, are there any tips or words of advice on protecting the painted surface during the addition of 8 more holes ?

When I have previously drilled painted metal I was able to apply some duct or painter's tape over the center punch to keep the chip coming off the cutting bit from scuffing up the paint. But I'm just not sure how well adhered this dial paint is.

All insights appreciated.

 

[Willie X]

Just mark the 12 and 6, line up the center holes and clamp the old dial on top of the new dial, with a sheet of clean paper in between, and go at it. Use about 4 small clamps, not to tight.

The key hole is best drilled undersize and finished (almost to size) using a round file, or dremel tool. When almost to size, switch to a 1/2" tapered reamer to finish it to round.

In order of preference: I would probably make friends with the old dial, or have the old dial redone, or use a decent paper dial over the old dial. I would only consider a new dial, if the old one was missing or trashed.

My 2, Willie X

 

[Mike Mall]

Just mark the 12 and 6, line up the center holes and clamp the old dial on top of the new dial, with a sheet of clean paper in between, and go at it. Use about 4 small clamps, not to tight.

The key hole is best drilled undersize and finished (almost to size) using a round file, or dremel tool. When almost to size, switch to a 1/2" tapered reamer to finish it to round.

In order of preference: I would probably make friends with the old dial, or have the old dial redone, or use a decent paper dial over the old dial. I would only consider a new dial, if the old one was missing or trashed.

My 2, Willie X

Similar question to Chime Times's.
How do you go about making clean holes in new paper dials? I'm thinking a drill bit would catch, and tear, the surface.

 

[Willie X]

Glue on the dial paper. When completely dry, use a very pointy X-acto knife to cut the holes, from the paper side, pushing the knife inward and against the sides of the holes.

I can get you the number of that blade, if the "very pointy" isn't good enough. Willie X

 

[Richard.W]

Just mark the 12 and 6, line up the center holes and clamp the old dial on top of the new dial, with a sheet of clean paper in between, and go at it. Use about 4 small clamps, not to tight.

Thank you so much for the ideas and suggestions. In this particular case there is no "old dial" to use as a template. I'll be using your ideas and the cardboard template method outlined in this thread.

Much appreciated.

 

[Mike Mall]

Glue on the dial paper. When completely dry, use a very pointy X-acto knife to cut the holes, from the paper side, pushing the knife inward and against the sides of the holes.

I can get you the number of that blade, if the "very pointy" isn't good enough. Willie X

Thank you from here as well. I will be using this in the near future.

 

[tracerjack]

On paper dials, I use hollow punches, like the ones used to cut holes in leather. The X-acto knife way works well too.

 

[Willie X]

Original X-acto numbers are: #1 handle (plain 5/16") and #11 blades (the pointest made) AFAIK. Willie X