Need to Modify Chime Silencer Lever - Hermle Movement

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by Sagebrush, Jul 23, 2011.

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  1. Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Registered User

    Sep 10, 2009
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    I have a Howard Miller wall clock with an 8” dial and a Hermle 351-030A movement with Westminster chimes. I had been looking for a way to silence the chimes periodically but the dial has no chime silencer selector or selector slot. I had searched along the edge of the dial to see if the movement had a chime silencer that could be reached from the side but had been unable to find one.

    I was considering installing one on the movement myself (I understand that can be done with my particular movement) but after removing the movement from the case, I discovered that it already HAS a silencer lever installed which is 4” in length, comes to exactly the edge of the dial (but no further) and presses against the back of the dial. It’s for this reason that I had been unable to locate it by simply feeling around the edges of the dial from the front of the clock.

    The fact that the end of the lever comes exactly to the edge of the dial on the clock is probably why Howard Miller didn’t use a dial with a slot in it for the lever to protrude through. Right now, the lever is too long to fit through any slot in a dial this size. In order to do that, they would have had to cut some of the lever off, add a slotted dial and then add a right angle tab to the end of the lever so it would protrude through the slot in the dial.

    On the other hand, the lever is too SHORT to be easily grasped from along the edge of the dial. It can be reached reasonably easily when it is in the “ON” position but is very difficult to reach, grasp and moved when in the “OFF” position.

    I would like to fashion some type of extender of probably 1/2” to 3/4” to add to the end of that lever (my lever is the same as the one shown in the bottom lever in the pic of post #3 in this thread: https://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?t=38998&page=2) and which would extend it that far beyond the edge of my dial. That would make it long enough to be grasped and moved easily but not too long to fit the clearances around the chime rods and case edge. I would also have to bend the chime silencer lever slightly away from the back of the dial so that it doesn’t press against it as it does now. That doesn’t seem very difficult to do however.

    My lever also has a small hole in the end of it (as shown in the pic) so it looks as if something could be screwed onto the end of it. Does anyone have any suggestions on where/if I can find parts to do what I want? I have checked with Black Forest but they don’t seem to have what I am looking for.

    The only other way I can figure to achieve what I am trying to do (and in the absence of some type of available extender) is to somehow make some type of extender myself and solder it to the end of the lever. I would prefer not to have to get into that however if possible.

    Any suggestions or assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Jun 24, 2008
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    Since the lever already touches the back of the dial, could you cut a slot and bend the lever slightly so it extends through the dial? It only needs to extend through about 1/4 inch or less.

    Will
     
  3. tom427cid

    tom427cid Registered User
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    Mar 23, 2009
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    Hi,
    If you have two levers-take one of them and bend the lever part to make an extension-the second lever will mount in the conventional manner on the bent-over section.
    Hope this helps.
    tom
     
  4. Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Registered User

    Sep 10, 2009
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    Thanks for the feedback. The existing dial is quite beautiful and I'm not sure that cutting a hole in it in the proper location is something that I would want to tackle. That seems like a fairly complex task to do properly. Replacing the dial with an already slotted one would seem like a better route. In that case, I think I could cut the existing lever and put a right angle tab on it to extend through the slot. So far I haven't been able locate a new dial with a slot where I would need it however and I think it would be even tricky to get the measurements accurate enough for a professional dial maker to cut the slot for me.

    That's why all in all, I felt that a simple extension of the current lever without any changes to the dial would be the least expensive and easiest route to pursue.
     
  5. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Oct 19, 2005
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    If you just want to permanently silence the chimes, pull the hammers back and secure them in that position. Everything will work normally, but you won't hear the chimes. Most movements have a bar near the hammers that make securing them for shipment easy. You can use that. You'll have to do the same thing on the other side as well. The other option is to either remove the weight on the right side, or secure the chain so the weight can't move. Either way will accomplish the same thing.
     
  6. Sagebrush

    Sagebrush Registered User

    Sep 10, 2009
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    #6 Sagebrush, Jul 23, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2011
    Thanks for your input but I don't want to silence the chimes permanently. I want to be able to reach the chime silencer lever and move it to either the ON or OFF position as desired.
     
  7. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Oct 19, 2005
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    OK then. How about a wire hooked to the chime silencing lever, dropping down below the movement to where you could operate it manually whenever the silence was desired?
     
  8. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

    Feb 9, 2008
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    The lever should not have to extend past the dial for you to reach it easily. A side hammer movement is rather close for space though.

    I would suggest that you use the lever you have, bend the lever back a bit and fashion a brass rod that will hang down about one inch below the bottom of the dial. A 3/32" brazing rod works well. Form a 'U' shaped hook with the short side about 3/8" long. Make sure that the new chime actuation rod hangs freely, straight down.

    Looks good to make a round or pear shaped bead on the bottom of the rod if you have a torch.

    Willie X
     
  9. R&A

    R&A Registered User

    Oct 21, 2008
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    You can take a wirer like what has been suggested. Put a loop on the end . It can connect to the lever, and run down just below the face. If the seat board is in the way. Just file a slot into the front edge as a guide. I have used a 1/8 round hasp file. I have done this before and it works just fine. It's an alternative solution to not changing the dial.

    H/C
     

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