My Recent Find, Ansonia, "Made in Japan" Short Drop.

[davidpaul]

Because this clock was running quite well while dry of oil and the case is in perfect condition, I decided to bring it home today. The price was, I believe, quite a good deal.

I will clean and oil the works, do some minor refinishing of the Walnut case and polish and lacquer the brass.

It is an Ansonia, "Made in Japan" short reach, school house, model.

it is missing one of the "buttons" on the front of the clock but that's no problem. After all, it was only meant for decoration.

My research shows that these clocks were imported, starting around 1914, to about 19 countries including, Russia, China, Australia and many more.

Do any of you members here know of something additional that I should be aware of before starting my work?

The enameling is almost perfect on the dial pan with only a small amount of checking but virtually no loss of detail. I will probably spray it with a satin finish poly to keep it that way.

The lower door has "A-Week" stenciled on the glass. I wonder what this means and if it is original?

Thanks very much for your fantastic knowledge of these old clocks and your acceptance of me as a new member,

David <><

 

[Steven Thornberry]

If you are basing the identification of the clock on the trademark on the dial, you need to know that it does not stand for Ansonia. That is the trademark of Aichi. See logo A05 on this website. Many Japanese movements were modeled on the Ansonia arch-top movement. Is it possible to have a look at the movement?

 

[JTD]

Steven is of course correct in identifying the maker, Aichi Clock Co., not Ansonia. As to the bottom glass, I suppose it means the clock runs for a week. I have seen such statements before although not this particular pattern. I see no reason why it should not be original, the lettering and layout seem in keeping with the style of the case.

The missing wooden button it should not be too hard to replace - you can find such buttons in model-makers shops or shops that sell furniture makers' supplies.

JTD

 

[davidpaul]

Steven is of course correct in identifying the maker, Aichi Clock Co., not Ansonia. As to the bottom glass, I suppose it means the clock runs for a week. I have seen such statements before although not this particular pattern. I see no reason why it should not be original, the lettering and layout seem in keeping with the style of the case.

The missing wooden button it should not be too hard to replace - you can find such buttons in model-makers shops or shops that sell furniture makers' supplies.

JTD

Thanks for that. Next time I am near Hobby Lobby, I will pick up enough to replace all of them. I am going to refinish the wood when I start disassembling next week or perhaps a bit later.

 

[Rockin Ronnie]

Very nice, even if it is not an Ansonia.

Ron

 

[Jeremy Woodoff]

I would reconsider refinishing the case. It looks to be in very good condition. A cleaning, possibly polishing with something like Howard's Restore-a-Shine, which has a mild polishing abrasive, and then waxing should improve the finish while keeping it original. I would also avoid spraying the dial with polyurethane. This is a non-reversible change and can have unknown effects on the paint (if it is a painted dial). If you feel the dial needs protection, a high-quality wax, like Renaissance micro-crystalline wax, can be used, or a reversible coating meant for paintings, like Soluvar Picture Varnish, can be used.

 

[Charles E. Davis]

Almost universally Japanese clock makers made clocks patterned on the typical American 8-day time and strike hanging clock. The typical one was with the medium sized dial but the 12 inch and the small dials are not uncommon. The Ansonia arch top movement is quite common and some with the word Ansonia along with "(another name) Clock Manufacturing Co." all in roman letters.
Your best outcome is to see some other identification of Aichi on the movement and any paper pasted labels.
This is an unusual case and appears to be in fine shape. Aichi was one of the large Japanese clock companies who advanced from semi-precision manufacturing to highly skilled operations making all kinds of electric meter products and even active in the aviation industry.

 

[Kevin W.]

The case looks fine, i would not refinish, clean the wood and see the difference. Asian clocks are nice ones. Enjoy.

 

[davidpaul]

I would reconsider refinishing the case. It looks to be in very good condition. A cleaning, possibly polishing with something like Howard's Restore-a-Shine, which has a mild polishing abrasive, and then waxing should improve the finish while keeping it original. I would also avoid spraying the dial with polyurethane. This is a non-reversible change and can have unknown effects on the paint (if it is a painted dial). If you feel the dial needs protection, a high-quality wax, like Renaissance micro-crystalline wax, can be used, or a reversible coating meant for paintings, like Soluvar Picture Varnish, can be used.

Jeremy,

Yes the dial is definitely painted. Thanks for the heads up regarding poly. It is in really great shape so will use a wax as opposed to , as you said, a non-reversible product.

The case is virtually in perfect condition and when I said, refinish, I misspoke.

I will definitely use a good wood cleaner and re-conditioner. No sand paper will touch this little baby.

Thanks for responding,

David <><

 

[davidpaul]

Very nice, even if it is not an Ansonia.

Ron

Yes, it's a pretty clock, regardless of where it was born.

 

[davidpaul]

The case looks fine, i would not refinish, clean the wood and see the difference. Asian clocks are nice ones. Enjoy.

This is the first Asian clock I have encountered and look forward to adding it to my collection in perfect running condition.

Thank you,

David <><

 

[R. Croswell]

David, you have a lovely old clock as it is. Why do you feel it should be refinished, lacquered, sprayed with poly, and have three of its original buttons replaced? Such alterations will surly diminish the value of the clock and give it a made-over look. It already looks like it should. To each his own, but if it were mine I would work on trying to duplicate the missing button and leave the rest of the case alone. Of course the movement should be oiled and perhaps disassembled and cleaned.

RC

 

[Willie X]

Easy 'tells' for early Japanese clocks is the size. Many are about 3/4 scale copies of the American counterpart. And the movement feet are wide at the base with two screws instead of just one in each foot. One screw for each narrow foot is almost universal for American clocks. There are many other differences but these two can be seen at a glance.
Willie X

 

[davidpaul]

Pulled the movement out today.

Gave it a sonic bath and lubrication. It's running well.

Here is front and back views. There are no markings what so ever. Nor are there any labels or other written material inside the case.

 

[Steven Thornberry]

Yes, this is not Ansonia, but a Japanese movement. Note the metal discs between the mainsprings and the great wheels and the wide, flat shape of the verge retainer. These items are often found on Japanese clock movements. The double-screw mounting feet mentioned above by Willie are absent, but not all Japanese movements had them. FWIW to say, I have seen New Haven movements with the metal discs and the flat verge retainer. As one example, note the metal discs on the New Haven movement pictured below.



I also have seen German movements with double-screw mounting feet. See, for example, this thread on a Junghans movement.

It's just a matter of learning, and the learning (and confusion) never stops.

 

[davidpaul]

Pulled the movement out today.

Gave it a sonic bath and lubrication. It's running well.

Here is front and back views. There are no markings what so ever. Nor are there any labels or other written material inside the case.

The wire on the left, when lifted, allows the mechanism to go through the "Chime" process.

What is the purpose of this? Is it to allow one to get the chime and time into sync.?

Thanks,

David <><

 

[Steven Thornberry]

Is it to allow one to get the chime and time into sync.?

Thanks,

David <><

Yes, that is its purpose.

 

[davidpaul]

Yes, that is its purpose.

Thank you.

 

[insomniacshotrods]

The wire on the left, when lifted, allows the mechanism to go through the "Chime" process.

What is the purpose of this? Is it to allow one to get the chime and time into sync.?

Thanks,

David <><

If your like me and have several clocks all over your bound to forget to wind one of them from time to time. As the spring winds down it doesnt have enough power to finish the chime cycle or it does it so slowly it gets out of sync. The rod keeps you from having to pull the dial face on such models.

 

[Steven Thornberry]

In the absence of the adjustment wire, there should be no reason in any event to pull off the dial of this clock simply to sync the strike. If at the hour the strike is wrong, simply move the hour hand to the hour struck and then advance the minute hand until the correct, current hour is struck.

 

[R. Croswell]

The wire on the left, when lifted, allows the mechanism to go through the "Chime" process.

What is the purpose of this? Is it to allow one to get the chime and time into sync.?

Thanks,

David <><

As others have said, yes, that is the purpose of the wire. I'll add just a couple more points. On clocks like this where the wire attached near the blade of the count lever, if the loop is not just right and/or there is no guide for the lower part of the wire, sometimes the wire can interfere with the count lever blade dropping into the count wheel slot. Some clocks had a guide stuck into the wooden side of the case and these are often missing. The wire is not really necessary. One option as suggested is to move the hour hand to the correct hour but if this is done often the hour hand may become loose. Another method to sync the strike is to turn the minute hand forward until just a couple minutes before the hour (the clock will then be in the "warning" phase of the cycle) then turn the minute hand backward about a quarter turn until the clock begins striking the next hour. Repeat and it will advance another hour, etc. This reduces the chance of the hour hand becoming loose or bending the hour hand if it is stuck tight.

RC

 

[insomniacshotrods]

Thanks for the tips Steven and R Croswell. Always nice to learn different ways to do things.

 

[davidpaul]

Aichi Short Drop 1910

Finally finished this clock. I had to recreate one of the larger gold buttons and glued it on today.