Mauthe Mystery

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by shutterbug, May 9, 2017.

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  1. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    Thanks, Martin. This one does not have a double hub though, which seems to be a requirement of the style you linked to.
     
  2. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    That does look like the movement, Justin, but with some differences. The left lever does not have an extension for an actuating wire. Nothing is in proximity to the worm gear that can utilize it in any way. The right lever will stop both the chime and strike sequence. This one also has a pulley system that I'm not sure is original. This is the same movement I posted before that the former "repairman" cut the chime main wheel out of the plate with a hacksaw! I could not get the plates hot enough to a better repair, so left his handy work as part of the clock's history.
     
  3. MartinM

    MartinM Registered User

    Jun 24, 2011
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    My guess about the one you have there is that the hub goes through a plate or the end of a spring barrel and then the spring is installed and one end is secured to the plate/barrel via the loop that hangs off the main body of the spring. This would allow the hub to spin in one direction, only, as it relates to the plate/barrel.
    this one has apparently been tweaked by someone to try to improve the grab friction while not understanding how the device is supposed to actually work.
    The way it is, now, it can only provide a slight amount of drag on the hub and never be able to tighten-down and grab on it.
     
  4. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    Another odd thing is that the screws you see on the hub are not long enough to hold the hub to the arbor. I'm still baffled :)
     
  5. Tinker Dwight

    Tinker Dwight Registered User

    Oct 11, 2010
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    It doesn't require the double hub. The German time bomb doesn't
    have a double hub. It just has the arbor and the spring.
    Tinker Dwight
     
  6. MartinM

    MartinM Registered User

    Jun 24, 2011
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    Yes. Another popular configuration is an inner and an outer hub where the inner is grabbed by the wrap-clutch-spring and the outer is affixed to the other end of the spring via a tang of some kind on the spring. Just as in the GTB.
     
  7. Tinker Dwight

    Tinker Dwight Registered User

    Oct 11, 2010
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    The double hub assumes both ends of the spring turn.
    This way if the shafts turn fast, the spring is contained.
    It just needs one end attached and the spring must drag
    enough to cause the spring to wind tighter.
    This is a similar concept as the toy called Chinese handcuffs
    ( only that is linear rather than rotational ).
    Tinker Dwight
     
  8. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    Here's what I discovered so far. I replaced the short screws with longer ones that will tighten against the arbor. This configuration allows the time side to wind CCW (from the front), and holds it from turning CW. Odd thing, but it works now at least. I'll play with the strike side later. Notice my home made post to hold the loop too. I used a couple pieces of a cuckoo perch wire.:)
     
  9. MartinM

    MartinM Registered User

    Jun 24, 2011
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    Looks like you're on your way, now.

    A little off topic, but, I was wondering if anyone has ever reworked a GTB using a Torkelson clutch. More commonly known as a one-way bearing (The kind found in many automotive starters.)?
    I used to make click-less ratchets for my mechanic friends using these and know them to be pretty strong and reliable.
    The only 'fix' I believe I've seen for the GTB's plastic drum and spring failure is to keep the spring and replace the plastic with aluminum.
     
  10. Tinker Dwight

    Tinker Dwight Registered User

    Oct 11, 2010
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    I don't believe a spring, itself, has ever failed. This is the
    same as the spring that retracts the set belt in a car.
    These are quite reliable. The nylon end is likely the problem.
    One like a starter motor has would work but it is not a cheap
    thing to machine for a clock.
    Tinker Dwight
     
  11. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    One more update. I discovered that the spring on the strike was actually cracked, which weakened it enough to eventually break. I had to make a new one, and it seems to be functioning well. Tomorrow it goes on the test stand, and we'll see. I'll use the pulley system it came with, although I still wonder about that being original.
     
  12. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    I'm getting this thing finalized, and want your opinions on this. I don't think this SHOULD have pulleys, and although the time side runs quite well on half weight, the chime and strike seem to be struggling to function. This is the way I found this, but it looks wrong to me, and it's clear that the pulleys are too big for the weight hooks. What do you guys think? Maybe the weights were changed? I don't know.
     
  13. shimmystep

    shimmystep Registered User

    Mar 5, 2012
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    The small hooks on the weights suggest strongly that they hook onto something smaller than those pulleys. I think even if it did need pulleys, they would be the wrong ones. However I agree, I'm not convinced there should pulleys at all. Near all the German weight driven longacse clocks, I've seen have not had pulleys, including higher end like Bauerle etc.

    Think they are the original chains? Any hooks on their ends? how heavy are the weights?
     
  14. Randy Beckett

    Randy Beckett Registered User

    May 23, 2012
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    Since the clock is running, you should be able to measure the amount the weight drops in a day, and multiply that times 8. You should then be able tell whether there is enough room in its case to run for 8 days without the pulleys.
     
  15. chimeclockfan

    chimeclockfan Registered User

    Dec 21, 2006
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    I have never seen a German 3 train chain driven clock with pulleys like that. I cannot imagine it's factory-original.
     
  16. Tinker Dwight

    Tinker Dwight Registered User

    Oct 11, 2010
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    I've seen these pulleys once before. They are chain
    pulleys. specifically for chains.
    I think the 8 day run method will tell you if it is needed
    or not.
    Tinker Dwight
     
  17. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    That's a good point, Randy. I'll try that and see ;)
     
  18. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator

    Oct 19, 2005
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    I have measured the weights, and am more perplexed. The left is marked "L" and weighs 6 lbs. That's the chime. The right is marked "R" and weighs 8 lbs (the strike). The center is not marked and weighs a wopping 10.5 lbs. WAY more than needed for the time train. The clock is running quite well, and the weights all seem quite adequate. I'm tempted to use the pulley on the center weight. It would be fine at 5 lbs. Opinions? Oh, BTW the weights are dropping at about the right rate for 8 days.
     
  19. Tinker Dwight

    Tinker Dwight Registered User

    Oct 11, 2010
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    Being unmarked might be an indications that someone in the past
    replaced it.
    Tinker Dwight
     
  20. MartinM

    MartinM Registered User

    Jun 24, 2011
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    If you leave the pulley on the middle and switch the Chime and Strike weights, does the strike still work well?
    It's odd to have the lighter weight on the Chime.
     
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