Master 400-Day Made in Japan.

[Robert Gift]

NISSHIN CLOCK
INDUSTRIAL CO:
LTD
No serial numbers seen.

Brought the thrift store clock up from the basement and accidentally got the torsion pendulum turning.
Clock has been running for a week on whomever wound it last.

Dare I use 0-20W full synthetic oil on the pivots?
Or leave well enough alone.

Thank you.

 

[KurtinSA]

Your call...whatever you do on any clock overhaul. One thing is that if it's been running in the past, what sort of grit might be in the pivot holes already. Adding any lubricant might just create more of a grinding paste. It's a toss up on whether to run as-is or take apart for refurbishment.

One thing that was pointed out in the past, it's probably not recommended to remove the cover for the spring barrel. In fact, it's crimped on from the factory since they considered it a "lifetime" lubrication...whatever they thought lifetime was at that point!! At any rate, the barrel may deform removing the cover so that should be factored into any decisions to overhaul the whole movement.

Kurt

 

[Robert Gift]

Your call...whatever you do on any clock overhaul. One thing is that if it's been running in the past, what sort of grit might be in the pivot holes already. Adding any lubricant might just create more of a grinding paste. It's a toss up on whether to run as-is or take apart for refurbishment.

Kurt

Thank you.
My incompetent overhaul is placing a drop of 0W20 oil on the pivots and wicking the oil out with toilet paper.
Repeat until the paper appears clean.
Cannot afford professional cleaning and care.

 

[Raymond101]

I have one of those bought cheap . The weight are horrible. The arms are very poorly designed. And yes don't open the spring barrel. .most of the case is just aluminum gold color. As for time keeping. Is another option. My one came in the original box . If there was a guarantee I would return it ..
As for oil use car oil in a car engine.
Clock oil on a clock.
& mazola for chips .
Sowing machine oil would be better if hard pressed 4 cash
Just my opinion.
Edit. I cleaned my one with just wooden peg stick the BBQ ones .
But did totally strip it down. Be careful the spring lock is tricky to release as it on the front and you will need a let down tool . It's a really strong spring.
So if you like all your fingers be careful .

 

[Robert Gift]

I have one of those bought cheap . The weight are horrible. The arms are very poorly designed. And yes don't open the spring barrel. .most of the case is just aluminum gold color. As for time keeping. Is another option. My one came in the original box . If there was a guarantee I would return it ..
As for oil use car oil in a car engine.
Clock oil on a clock.
& mazola for chips .
Sowing machine oil would be better if hard pressed 4 cash
Just my opinion.
Edit. I cleaned my one with just wooden peg stick the BBQ ones .
But did totally strip it down. Be careful the spring lock is tricky to release as it on the front and you will need a let down tool . It's a really strong spring.
So if you like all your fingers be careful .

Thank you.
Is any clock oil now synthetic?
Was thinking the 0 weight component and synthetic may be good.

Thank you, also, for the warning.
I have let springs down carefully holding the winding key and keeping the click disengaged.
The only way I can let this spring down is lethe clock run. Or remove the torsion wire and see if I can get the escape wheel pawl to oscillate. (flutter)

I never expect a torsion pendulum clock to be accurate in our house because it in Winter it gets cold when we are away and at night and opposite in the Summer.

 

[Raymond101]

Thank you.
Is any clock oil now synthetic?
Was thinking the 0 weight component and synthetic may be good.

Thank you, also, for the warning.
I have let springs down carefully holding the winding key and keeping the click disengaged.
The only way I can let this spring down is lethe clock run. Or remove the torsion wire and see if I can get the escape wheel pawl to oscillate. (flutter)

I'm not an expert on oil but I would ask a professional. As 0 / 20 is graded on temperature so the adhesion to engine bearing etc is consistent to heat as the engine parts get hot or in cold weather doesn't form glues.
As I guess you're clock isn't a formula engine and most of the wheels rotate really slow. It will be very heavy.
As for letting it run with out the torsion spring or arbor/ palet. It will make the wheel run faster and is more likely to do more damage than just leaving the clock to run for a year. If the bushing are dirty or worn and running it fast. Will just grind the dirt in faster and make the repairs harder. If you don't know. How . I suggest watching many exalant videos on YouTube.
I wouldn't recommend letting it flutter for a month to let the spring down.
It's your clock your decision.

 

[Robert Gift]

I'm not an expert on oil but I would ask a professional. As 0 / 20 is graded on temperature so the adhesion to engine bearing etc is consistent to heat as the engine parts get hot or in cold weather doesn't form glues.
As I guess you're clock isn't a formula engine and most of the wheels rotate really slow. It will be very heavy.
As for letting it run with out the torsion spring or arbor/ palet. It will make the wheel run faster and is more likely to do more damage than just leaving the clock to run for a year. If the bushing are dirty or worn and running it fast. Will just grind the dirt in faster and make the repairs harder. If you don't know. How . I suggest watching many exalant videos on YouTube.
I wouldn't recommend letting it flutter for a month to let the spring down. ...

View attachment 764598

Thank you.
THAT IS THE CLOCK! (Our clock's hands are yellow metal.)
The back glass has the vertical ripples. (Called what?)
Before trying to get it to oscillate, I would oil and wick the oil out until oil discoloration no longer seen.
But would just let it run - if it would run after using the 0W-20 synthetic oil "cleaning".

 

[Raymond101]

0 /20 has additives added to the oil .
And as car engine's don't have brass .
Just use sowing machine oil it's safe.
I have a feeling it's not good for brass .
Never tried It. I know it's good in diesel engines. .'' So it will ''or'' will not screw up your clock'' Is the question. quote from. William Shakespeare. .
As it's a cheap built clock built for the tourist trade . I paid $10 . And put it in the girls room. The face is plastic hands are aluminum. The brass is low grade .
The ripped class at the back what it's called. No idea. Maybe bathroom window glass .

Good luck . .

 

[Mike Mall]

Dare I use 0-20W full synthetic oil on the pivots?
Or leave well enough alone.

You can search the forum on recommended oils, there are more than a few opinions to read.
You could spend the better part of a day, or two, or more, reading them.
This report makes a few recommendations.
It does not recommend Etsyntha clock oil, but I've seen no other reports of problems with it.

 

[Cheezhead]

Does anyone know for certain that a clock oil is special or is simply something ordinary that is bottled in a small container with application features appropriate for oiling clocks? I use a synthetic intended for auto engines. That has got to be better oil than from long ago. Would you feel confident to use a clock oil in your car engine? A clock at room temperature has undemanding lubrication requirements with progressively faster moving components run at increasingly lighter loads.

Labeling an oil a clock oil is not convincing. Has anyone said why their clock oil is better for clocks?

 

[etmb61]

Does anyone know for certain that a clock oil is special or is simply something ordinary that is bottled in a small container with application features appropriate for oiling clocks? I use a synthetic intended for auto engines. That has got to be better oil than from long ago. Would you feel confident to use a clock oil in your car engine? A clock at room temperature has undemanding lubrication requirements with progressively faster moving components run at increasingly lighter loads.

Labeling an oil a clock oil is not convincing. Has anyone said why their clock oil is better for clocks?

Search for oil on the message board and you find that the subject is a huge barrel of worms. Everyone has an opinion. No need to rehash it all here.

 

[Schatznut]

Search for oil on the message board and you find that the subject is a huge barrel of worms. Everyone has an opinion. No need to rehash it all here.

Aw man! What better way to spend a quiet Sunday afternoon than in a theological flame war on the merits of various oils?!

 

[Mike Mall]

Aw man! What better way to spend a quiet Sunday afternoon than in a theological flame war on the merits of various oils?!

We can always talk about something less controversial.
How about burnishing vs. polishing?

 

[digitalblsphemy]

I have a similar supposed 400 day clock. Yours appears to be running. I would let it be until such time as it needs it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!..........................................yet.

 

[Raymond101]

Cheezhead .. if you only read the link on post #9 that Mike, kindly put up will answer 90% of your questions.
If your masters clock is the same as I showed . As a clock it's. Cheap crapy time keeping. And costed less than $10.
To manufacture. The oil will cost more.
If it works and keeping correct time atleast twice a day it ok.
Leave it alone.

 

[Cheezhead]

Search for oil on the message board and you find that the subject is a huge barrel of worms. Everyone has an opinion. No need to rehash it all here.

Exactly! Clock oil quality is determined with opinion. The difficulty with determining clock oil actual quality is because clocks last a long time. There lies the answer.

 

[Schatznut]

Exactly! Clock oil quality is determined with opinion. The difficulty with determining clock oil actual quality is because clocks last a long time. There lies the answer.

I think you're spot-on, Cheezhead. If we screw it up, we'll know in five years or so, and it will be too late. If we get it right, we'll know in 20 years or so, and it probably also will be too late.

 

[Tim Orr]

Good evening, Robert!

Perhaps one of your first home-made tools could be a let-down tool. Don't try to hold the key with your fingers and lift the click. Sooner or later, you will end up needing one of those blood deliveries you make. It will get away from you, "maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon, and for the rest of your life."

Get about a 4- to 6-inch scrap of broom handle. Drill a hole about 1-1/2˝ deep into the cut end of it and about 1/4˝ to 3/8˝ in diameter. Take a saw and cut a kerf across the cut end through the middle of the hole you just drilled, again, about 1-1/2˝ deep. This will allow you to put the key into the broom handle with the key wings in the saw kerf.

You can then use the broom handle to hold the spring tension while you release the click and the size of the handle will let you "let down" the mainspring in a slow, controlled manner. Once it's down all the way, you can disassemble the whole business for cleaning, etc. You can use Forster-style toothpicks to "peg out" the holes.

Even with an inexpensive thrift store clock, Safety First!

Best regards!

Tim Orr