- Dec 6, 2020
Yes they have two, a basic one and a custom one that I want to try but don't want to try it for that amount.yes... but why would the suspension spring cost so much? have you checked at timesavers?
I see what your saying but I've already got the piece. I already drilled and threaded the hole for the pendulum rod. Just need to make the slice.Why not bend a piece of strip brass in the appropriate "n" shape, put the spring up inside it, squeeze it closed, and then rivet it with a driven taper pin ?
The steel spring will go right to the top of the brass "block".
Before squeezing it close put the required curve on the bottom.
Make the brass slightly wider than required and then file/linish to size when rivetted.
Don't try and make a rivet, simply tap a tapered brass pin through, trim to size, and then flatten.
If you first slightly countersink the hole you've drilled through the flattening will fill it and you can file it off for a perfect finish.
Anyway, that's what I've always done.
My experience using a Jeweler's saw for a cut like this isn't great. I have a very hard time keeping the slot straight and centered. A slitting saw does a much better job for me.I see what your saying but I've already got the piece. I already drilled and threaded the hole for the pendulum rod. Just need to make the slice.
I have a jeweler's saw coming. Will be here tomorrow
I saw these after I ordered a jeweler's saw. At this point I have no lathes or anything besides hand drills. I was a carpenter turned newbie clock repair. Mainly my own.
I have small files nothing in would make that small of a slot. I'll see if jeweler's saw works. Sounds like Uhralt had a hard time. If not I'll look more into slitting saw blade. Looks like a good thing to have anywaysThey also make thin files for cutting small screw slots. That might work too.
Unfortunately not. The slitting saw shown above is mounted in a small mill or lathe.
Thanks it totally worked first try. Been working on this 1800s longcase and after taking apart fixing quite a few things had it all back together and it was running fast 5 minutes a day. I was positive it needed the pendulum dropped and the but on bob was bottomed out. I added a good inch to the brass on suspension did everything you said. And it's now running a bit slow with lots of adjustment up for the bob.With the block scribed where you want the slot. Use a jeweler's saw with a #6 blade. Start on one corner @ a 45° angle and try your best to maintain your cut on the line on two faces. If you make a good start just keep sawing, applying no pressure to the blade. Don't worry if the cut is a little wavey, as long as you can force the SS into position. Tight is good. To tight just retrace the cut from the other side, or go to a #5 blade. The bigger blade probably won't be necessary.
Unless you've used a jeweler's saw a good bit, some practice cuts will be necessary. Just remember, slow with no pressure, and the blade needs to be tight in the frame. I would expect a few broken blades on this one cut.
You know i was wondering why it wouldn't go back farther the suspension top that is. It's hitting the mount and can't go back farther. Not sure on crutch being in right spot but since doing this I've got it dialed in a lot closer. If I centered it on the brass by shortening the spring I couldn’t accomplish dropping the whole pendulum.Usually you would shoot for the crutch eye to be near the middle of the lower block.
On yours, the crutch wire looks short?
Also, the top suspension spring block should be forward from the shown position.
Usually, there is an indentation, or notch, at the top of the hangernpost, to positively locate the suspension springs top block in the post.
Yes it was way closer to center with other piece.Did the original set-up put the crutch near the center of the block? If yes, all you needed to do was lengthen the pendulum rod by about 1/2" or so.
It's common for the threaded ends of these pendulum rods to be broken off. The rating piece (spike), at the bottom can also be broken off at the threads. Any of these defects will result in a short pendulum assembly. And that may have been your original problem.
So I just deepened the slot on the bracket. I'm thinking there was a different type that was made for these then the ones offered like I got. The top of my bracket really looked like it should except a spring with a simple pin threw it. I deepened it and filed it to except the top block appropriatelyYes, some springs were only about 1/8" to 3/16" wide.
Deepening the slot might be your best bet? But spring stock is readily available and plain ole shim stock will work just fine too and can be cut with steel scissors. Pocket watch springs can also be used.
The rod can be easily replaced with standard welding/brazing rods, or off the shelf hardware store mild steel round stock. The size is 5/32" for most and both ends are threaded to fit the blocks. I've seen a few that were spliced but replacing the whole rod might be better, especially if it appears to be a replacement already.
I did make that seat. It's hard to see. I'll go a little deeper and a little wider with it. Thanks I really appreciate your helpThat looks good.
It would probably be a good idea to go a bit deeper with the slit in the top post. Then make a small seat for the top piece, so it can't move around. A few strokes with a round (or 4 corner file) in the right place, will do it. This is not absolutely necessary but most clocks will have this feature and it's cheap insurance.