Mainspring removal on Kundos

[Viennaman]

Having got an old Kundo Junior working well, I'm doing a complete stripdown, clean, relacquer,oil... the whole works.

However, I've never done a complete stripdown on a spring clock before (mainly weight-driven wall clocks).

Having taken the clock apart, I've popped the lid off the barrel but am unsure on how to go about removing the mainspring. Despite its completely let-down state, there seems still to be a lot of energy stored in it.

I've looked online for springwinders, but they look ruinously expensive. Is there an easy way to get a 400-day spring out with ordinary tools?

 

[harold bain]

Having got an old Kundo Junior working well, I'm doing a complete stripdown, clean, relacquer,oil... the whole works.

However, I've never done a complete stripdown on a spring clock before (mainly weight-driven wall clocks).

Having taken the clock apart, I've popped the lid off the barrel but am unsure on how to go about removing the mainspring. Despite its completely let-down state, there seems still to be a lot of energy stored in it.

I've looked online for springwinders, but they look ruinously expensive. Is there an easy way to get a 400-day spring out with ordinary tools?

You can get it out with just a pair of pliers, using gloved hands, by pulling it out from the middle, one loop at a time. Getting it back in can also be done, but is not nearly as easy, and takes a fair bit of hand strength.

 

[lesbradley]

If you dig around you can often find a Horolovar spring winder for not too many bucks, makes the job a lot easier to put the spring back. Otherwise buy a new spring. If you are really stuck, mail me the unit with enough bucks for the return post and I'll clean and lube and replace it for you. Bear in mind I am in the UK.

 

[shutterbug]

I'll explain the process of replacing the spring that you remove with Harold's method.

Wear gloves.
Hook the outside hole onto the barrel hook, being careful to note which way the spring should wind.
Holding the barrel with your non-dominant hand with fingers (not thumb) on the open top to hold the spring as it winds, bring the spring one revolution with the dominant hand, and make sure it clears the end (on the inside).
Now wind one revolution at a time, using the fingers to hold it in the barrel.
There's no turning back! Don't even think of stopping!. Keep winding!
When you get it far enough, the last few coils will just pop in as a group.
There! You're done! Whew!

You may get some coning, and you have to be careful of the rim of the barrel ... but this method will work.

 

[EliTom]

Hey guys - I was going to post a very similar thread today so thanks Viennaman for kicking thsi topic off.

So I have stripped my first 400 day clock - a very cheap 1970s Kundo Standard as the mainspring was fully let down already.

So first question - is there a cheaper way to let down mainsprings that a £40 special tool?

Now I have got the mainspring barrel out - how do I open it up !?

I am guessing it's a case of prising the lid of but I can't get it to move without damaging the brass and maybe the spring as well.

Once I can get it open , I will try the removal and replace process to practice.

 

[harold bain]

Hey guys - I was going to post a very similar thread today so thanks Viennaman for kicking thsi topic off.

So I have stripped my first 400 day clock - a very cheap 1970s Kundo Standard as the mainspring was fully let down already.

So first question - is there a cheaper way to let down mainsprings that a £40 special tool?

Now I have got the mainspring barrel out - how do I open it up !?

I am guessing it's a case of prising the lid of but I can't get it to move without damaging the brass and maybe the spring as well.

Once I can get it open , I will try the removal and replace process to practice.

EliTom, do not pry the lid off the barrel. It comes off easily enough by rapping the other end of the arbor with a rubber mallet, or something similar, while holding it in your gloved hand. A homemade letdown tool can be easily made with a broomstick and a key. Cut a slit in the broomstick (you only need about 6 inches of stick) for the key to fit into, wrap tape around the slit so it doesn't split, and you are set. Use gloves when using this so it doesn't slip too fast when letting the spring down.

 

[Kevin W.]

I know it can be put back in by hand.But if you lubricate the spring before you put it back in, will it not be difficult to handle and control.

 

[harold bain]

Kevin, yes it is difficult. Many only try this a few times before deciding a mainspring winder is a smart investment.

 

[dutch]

Kevin, yes it is difficult. Many only try this a few times before deciding a mainspring winder is a smart investment.

You got that right Harold, one time was enough for me. My Ollie Baker tool is the best investment I ever made in clock repair.

 

[oldticker]

Personnally i used to put mainsprings in by hand for about 20 years until age crept up and then invested in a Bergeon winder - GODSEND!

As others have said already - gloves/rag and pliers to remove.

 

[Viennaman]

Thanks a lot for the advice, guys.

With a pair of stout gardening gloves, it came out easily enough. I had a go at practicing the start of the reinstallation, and that seemed not too bad once I managed to get the hole onto the barrel hook. It remains to be seem if it's as easy once the spring is all greased up!

I have some proper compressible mainspring grease to replace the ghastly green gunk the previous owner had put on it. But the baby needs a good clean and polish before I get that far. I'm off to the States for a week, so I'll let you know how I get on when I cross back across the pond.

 

[John Hubby]

The safety measures explained by Harold and others are definitely to be followed.

Aside from the order of magnitude improvement in safety when using a mainspring winder, the single most important reason to use one is the high probability you will "cone" the mainspring when removing and reinstalling by hand. It is almost impossible to avoid some coning using this method. Try the clock fairs in the UK or the Regional Marts in the U.S. for used winders, priced aren't all that high.

To explain a coned mainspring: That is when the coils form a cone shape to one side or the other when suspended from the end, instead of being vertical and parallel.

To explain why a coned mainspring is a "bad thing": If the spring is coned some of the coils will rub against the inner barrel or cover as the spring unwinds. That friction drag can be enough to stop the clock, at the least it will reduce the amount of power available to run the clock.

 

[shutterbug]

Hey John! I was wondering about you - you hadn't posted for awhile! Good to see you back

 

[John Hubby]

It's good to be back. I've had some challenges with a family illness for the past month that kept me offline most of the time. I've been reading the posts but just didn't have the time available to do the research and answer all the questions asked. Now I've got some catching up to do!!

 

[shutterbug]

It's good to be back. I've had some challenges with a family illness for the past month that kept me offline most of the time. I've been reading the posts but just didn't have the time available to do the research and answer all the questions asked. Now I've got some catching up to do!!

I hope everything turns out alright! My uncle said it well: "Old age ain't for sissy's"

 

[Joolz]

Many thanks for your replies but you guys make it sound easy,
Which grade of grease is used on a main spring?
regards
Joolz

 

[shutterbug]

Many thanks for your replies but you guys make it sound easy,
Which grade of grease is used on a main spring?
regards
Joolz

A lot of talk about that lately, and we've pretty well settled on the Slick 50 option for 400 day clocks. It's really very good for this application.