Looking for Missing Decorative Brass Banding

[PaulWeber]

Hi all…..

I recently bought a beautiful French crystal regulator. It however has one major wart.…. It’s missing a section a decorative brass banding around its top-section.
Does anyone know where I might find a replacement piece? Or the name of someone who does custom banding?

 

[Eclectic Oddities]

Hi all…..

I recently bought a beautiful French crystal regulator. It however has one major wart.…. It’s missing a section a decorative brass banding around its top-section.
Does anyone know where I might find a replacement piece? Or the name of someone who does custom banding?

View attachment 754859 View attachment 754861 View attachment 754862 View attachment 754863

It will be difficult finding a exact replacement. You can try searching for gallery wire or gallery banding. IMO, best bet would be either make it yourself or specialty supply company. Possibly a place like etsy or ebay. Etsy specializes in handmade and custom items. However, will be costly if custom. I would be willing to try if you want.

That is the width and thickness?

I make stuff like this type of stuff every now and again. For a simple explanation, I usually start with a harvested section. I make a 2 peice hard plastic mold. Then use that mold to press thin strips of metal. These plastic dies dont last long and the metal needs to be thin and malleable. If material is too thin and of concern you can backfill with with epoxy, shellac, wax, etc. If thickness needs to be increased place a backer strip or made up with the backfill. Also, you can use the mold to make metallic colored epoxy replacements. Surprisingly the color match can be quite close originally but does not tarnish over time.

There is other ways too but this is how I do it.

 

[PaulWeber]

It will be difficult finding a exact replacement. You can try searching for gallery wire or gallery banding. IMO, best bet would be either make it yourself or specialty supply company. Possibly a place like etsy or ebay. Etsy specializes in handmade and custom items. However, will be costly if custom. I would be willing to try if you want.

That is the width and thickness?

I make stuff like this type of stuff every now and again. For a simple explanation, I usually start with a harvested section. I make a 2 peice hard plastic mold. Then use that mold to press thin strips of metal. These plastic dies dont last long and the metal needs to be thin and malleable. If material is too thin and of concern you can backfill with with epoxy, shellac, wax, etc. If thickness needs to be increased place a backer strip or made up with the backfill. Also, you can use the mold to make metallic colored epoxy replacements. Surprisingly the color match can be quite close originally but does not tarnish over time.

There is other ways too but this is how I do it.

Hello, and thanks for the response and detailed explanation!

It seems like almost all my internet searches for decorative banding eventually lead me to Etsy. I’ve seen quite a few gallery wires on Etsy similar to what I need, and many more that I almost like better than what’s already on the clock.

But I‘d prefer to bring the clock back to its original look, which means I’ll likely need to go the custom route.

I’m out if town for work until Monday night. But when I get back I can send you some better closeup pictures and measurements of my banding.

A couple quick questions in the meantime……

1. Is it possible to capture all the detail of the original piece using a mold and pressed metal?

2. Or is the fidelity better by using epoxy?

3. And of course finally, can you give me a ballpark estimate on what you would charge me to do this? (I‘m guessing I’d probably need about 18-24” x .5”)

Thanks Again
—Paul

 

[Eclectic Oddities]

Hello, and thanks for the response and detailed explanation!

It seems like almost all my internet searches for decorative banding eventually lead me to Etsy. I’ve seen quite a few gallery wires on Etsy similar to what I need, and many more that I almost like better than what’s already on the clock.

But I‘d prefer to bring the clock back to its original look, which means I’ll likely need to go the custom route.

I’m out if town for work until Monday night. But when I get back I can send you some better closeup pictures and measurements of my banding.

A couple quick questions in the meantime……

1. Is it possible to capture all the detail of the original piece using a mold and pressed metal?

2. Or is the fidelity better by using epoxy?

3. And of course finally, can you give me a ballpark estimate on what you would charge me to do this? (I‘m guessing I’d probably need about 18-24” x .5”)

Thanks Again
—Paul

1. I would need a harvested section of the original banding. Then it would be close to a exact duplicate of the harvested section, which would remain intact and fully reusable. However, as the plastic dies are used they wear out. So it is best to make 2 copies of the die right away.

2. I would say... maybe. If the dies are already made and functional, it is little extra cost or time to make a epoxy section. The issue for me is I do not see some colors well. So I would have to get my wife to try to match the color. But thats not a big deal.

3. Will have to get back to you on that. I have never done anything that small and do not know if it will work. I will try to test with similar stuff I have here tomorrow.

 

[PaulWeber]

1. I would need a harvested section of the original banding. Then it would be close to a exact duplicate of the harvested section, which would remain intact and fully reusable. However, as the plastic dies are used they wear out. So it is best to make 2 copies of the die right away.

2. I would say... maybe. If the dies are already made and functional, it is little extra cost or time to make a epoxy section. The issue for me is I do not see some colors well. So I would have to get my wife to try to match the color. But thats not a big deal.

3. Will have to get back to you on that. I have never done anything that small and do not know if it will work. I will try to test with similar stuff I have here tomorrow.

Sounds good. By the way, I might actually paint/gild the existing banding (haven’t decided yet). But if I do, then you wouldn’t even need to try and match colors If you do an epoxy reproduction.

 

[Eclectic Oddities]

Sounds good. By the way, I might actually paint/gild the existing banding (haven’t decided yet). But if I do, then you wouldn’t even need to try and match colors If you do an epoxy reproduction.

Attempting to do a little test, I ran into a issue. I do not have any thin enough sheet metal on hand. I have stainless but that has too much spring. Stainless needs to be over bent by 30% to hold shape.

If you decide to go with painted epoxy. That would be rather cheap, very durable, fast and easy to reproduce.

There is a really nice gilding paint I use. It's called "RICH GOLD LEAF FINISHES" by Sheffield Bronze Paint Corporation. Only issue is it is difficult to use. It is best applied in a single stroke and second coat is near impossible. IMO, it looks great and authentic when dry. I usually seal and protect with a water based acrylic sealer. I have never used this paint on epoxy though. The paint is xylene based it may react to the epoxy. Just to clarify, I am not a sponsor nor getting paid to promote their product.

FYI, I do a lot of vintage and antique conservation/restoration of mechanical objects (toys, adding machines, music boxes, tools, clocks, etc.), paper items (books, documents, paintings, etc), and more.

For a estimate dm me, if that is possible on here. It will not be real expensive. I prefer to not share negotiations, unless you do not care.

 

[Eclectic Oddities]

Sounds good. By the way, I might actually paint/gild the existing banding (haven’t decided yet). But if I do, then you wouldn’t even need to try and match colors If you do an epoxy reproduction.

When you have time get me those dimensions and details

 

[PaulWeber]

Well Houston, we have a problem…..

When I got home last night to measure the clock, I discovered a problem: The recessed space where the (presumably) missing banding goes is 5/16” (8mm) wide, whereas the existing banding is 7/16”. See attached picture.

So…..is it possible to make a duplicate—but smaller—cast?

Or might there be another solution?

 

[Eclectic Oddities]

Well Houston, we have a problem…..

When I got home last night to measure the clock, I discovered a problem: The recessed space where the (presumably) missing banding goes is 5/16” (8mm) wide, whereas the existing banding is 7/16”. See attached picture.

So…..is it possible to make a duplicate—but smaller—cast?

Or might there be another solution?

View attachment 755812

Well, that sucks.

There is a few possibilities to recreate. I would be possible to create a silicone mold, compress the mold to correct width, then cast. I do not think that would mess with scaling much.

You could contact someone who does 3d printing. If the model is hard enough, it could be used as a metal punch die. Or model and print yourself. Many libraries have 3d printers now.

 

[PaulWeber]

Well, that sucks.

There is a few possibilities to recreate. I would be possible to create a silicone mold, compress the mold to correct width, then cast. I do not think that would mess with scaling much.

You could contact someone who does 3d printing. If the model is hard enough, it could be used as a metal punch die. Or model and print yourself. Many libraries have 3d printers now.

I sent you a PM